What advice is your RE agent giving you regarding these findings?

I am the seller and I am FSBO. The buyer had the home inspection and these are the things that she picked out to look at.

I would expect some items would need attention in a 100 year old home.

Offer a $1,000 credit to the buyers so they can make repairs.

hopeb1, what does the buyer want?

1406. Fireplace Condition Safety Item. The flue is open into the attic; blocked by insulation. Recommend that a fireplace specialist permanently seal the opening with steel to prevent accidental heat or flames from entering the flue and attic spaces for safety.
====Fire hazard. My old house had signs of a previous attic fire. Did you ever have a chimney sweep inspect your chimney?

803. Walls Seek Further Review. 1.) Active leaking observed at the foundation wall. The framing at this area was extremely wet. Recommend repairs as needed. 2.) Efflorescence observed at foundation perimeter; this is a mineral deposit left behind from exterior water infiltration, recommend consulting sellers as to moisture problems or a licensed contractor for review. See gutter and carport slab comments.
===Well, there is leaking and the inspector thinks it might be from the gutters and carport slab. How do the gutters drain?

. Some center posts have been removed and replaced with stacked blocks which may allow settlement to occur. Client is advised to consult licensed building contractor for additional information prior to closing.
===Is this in a basement or crawl space? Sounds like there is a support problem.

. 1.) Flexible plastic drain tubing has been installed from the laundry is improperly connected into the plumbing waste lines near the hatch opening under the bathroom; improper or missing fitting noted. This line is also not properly sloped/supported for positive drainage. Evidence of leaking noted at the improper connection. 2.) Active drip type leak also observed at t\supply pipe fitting under the center bathroom. Recommend further review or repairs as needed by a qualified licensed plumber
===Someone played do-it-yourself-plumbing and didn't know what they were doing. If I was buying, I sure would like a plumber to go through the whole house first to see if there is any other diy.

1812. Distribution/
Ducts Repairs Needed. Ducts are lying on the ground at some areas. Recommend securing to framing or excavating under the ducts to prevent moisture and mold accumulation. Recommend review/repairs as required by a qualified licensed HVAC contractor.
===Ok, sounds like crawl space. And you have been losing heat/cooling through your ducts.

Does this help?

I would suggest to any buyer for your home to consult a licensed strutuaral enginerer and the buliding dept before they buy. Was the HI a licensed contractor or had he been in the building trades as a inspetor? He is using language of both. Who ordered the inspection--usually the buyer does and the seller does not see the report in most states. Yes a older home does have problems and you may have to correct some before you sell. Have you sold property before so you can deal with these problems? Unless you get cash, the bank may not loan the money unless some of these are corrected.
Good luck

Have you gone thru the house yourself to see if you can see what is stated on the report so you know the conditions in the report actually exist.
You wouldn't be the first house owner to have a report handed to them that was not their's. So verify what you have in hand is actually a report on your house.
Next has your buyer told you what they want fixed or if they want anything fixed? They may prefer to take a deduction on the price of the house. This may or may not work to your advantage.

"1406. Fireplace Condition Safety Item. The flue is open into the attic; blocked by insulation. Recommend that a fireplace specialist permanently seal the opening with steel to prevent accidental heat or flames from entering the flue and attic spaces for safety."

Closing a flue with steel is about the dumbest thing I have heard in a while.
Steel conducts heat VERY nicely, and will leave a serious hazard if the fix is performed this way.

Does this inspector know his posterior from a hole in the ground?

"Closing a flue with steel is about the dumbest thing I have heard in a while."

Despite what it says about "accidental heat", the real danger is from sparks and airborn cinders landing on insulation. Steel would work just fine, just as it does for free-standing fireplaces. I had a lisenced home inspector advise me to correct a similar problem with plywood, which sounds even more nonsensical but probably would have been okay too.

I used brick and mortar, but that was because it was easier to bring individual bricks and a bucket of mortar up into my attic than it would be to bring a big sheet of plywood.

Brick,
What I think the inspector was trying to say is that the firestopping at the flue/attic floor was missing. (the flue is open to the attic). I think it is just very poorly worded. As a matter of fact, all the sections provided are poorly written with bad syntax, etc. And every damn comment is followed a silly CYA statement!

Given how many peeps have commented on the language of this report I'd be wondering how long this guy was in business and just what his credentials are.

"What I think the inspector was trying to say is that the firestopping at the flue/attic floor was missing. (the flue is open to the attic)."

He is REALLY bad then.
The opening he is saying is open is a chase, NOT a flue.
The flue is the masonry or metal duct that carries the products from a flame out of the building.
If it has ANY opening inside the exterior envelope of the building you have a BIG problem.
If the chase has not been fire stopped that is a much easier problem to fix.
Even plain fiberglass bats (no paper or vapor barrier) is allowed in many places.
Metal would be a real PITA to use but it might be a local rule.

#1803 seems bad. Is there really "extremely wet framing", from an active leak?

Now that you know about these problems, you'll have to disclose them to future buyers if this buyer vanishes. So you've got to resolve the problems one way or another.

I think you should get your own estimates for making these repairs, from reputable contractors (you might need to pay them $50 or so for their time). Then either pay to have the repairs done, or reduce your price accordingly.

IMO, this is a good example why I believe that NJ has it right with the HI regulations stating: "..vi. Provide recommendations where material defects were found to repair, replace or monitor a system or component or to obtain examination and analysis by a qualified professional, tradesman, or service
technician without determining the methods, materials or cost of corrections