Well, it is Alison's method, she is in northern Alberta and perhaps has a problem with well water? Here I can smell the chlorine in the drinking water and swear sometimes in the summer that I can taste algea. I just used water that had already been boiled for tea. The vermiculite I used (and I meant to include that in the other post but forgot) was industrial grade vermiculite insulation (trade name Micafil). Therefore very large pieces. I used a 5/8" o-ring for comparison (retail offering on the right). So, having said all that I do not know if industrial grade vermiculite is still for sale. The bag I have is quite old. I didn't measure the water (see I can follow instructions!) but if there was a little too much just poured it out. I wrote in permanent marker on the bag but it has faded out on some and I had to re-do them. Yes I have read Brian's comments on marking his seedlings and that was in the back of my mind. I guess we all have to find out for ourselves! :) I have added my home-made signage to the baggies. That would be plastic blinds that I get at the Salvation Army stores for 15 cents, cut them to length and write with lead pencil that won't wear or wash off, just use an eraser. So far only Gazelle has germinated. I have tried Durandi, Terniflora (although I picked the seeds from the plant just last week and bagged them), Daniel Deronda, Ken Donson, Gillian Blades, Texensis (I beleive I sent some of those seeds to you), Etoile Voilet, Ernest Markham, Wada'a Primrose and a few more. I went to England last September and toured some gardens. I collected some seeds with permission from a few of the gardens and many private homes. These I put outside in pots, covered them with chain link fencing (over 80 pots) to keep the squirrels out and left these out for the winter. Here are a few that I am trying: Jacquline du Pre, Christine, Alpina White Moth, montana Vera, Koreana Blue Eclipse, Cezanne, Beth Currie, Stephanie, Madame Eduoard Andre, Gravayette Beauty, Liberation, Alba Luxurians, tetra Rose, Frances Rivas, Koreana Dark Secret, Chinook, Laura Denny, Pink pearl, Vince Denny, Asao, Early Sensation (not hardy here but...), Special Occasion, Crispa, lincoln Star, koreana Candle Glow, Elizabeth, Sunset, Mrs Spencer Castle, Broughton Star, Pamela Jackman, Koreana Brunette, Viorna, Piilu Pink, Columbine, Haku Ookan, Ice Queen, Vivienne Lawson, Broughton Bride, Koreana Betina, Alpina Helsingborg, Jacqui, Albino Pride, Tage Lundell, Buckland Beauty, for the clematis. I did send back (by mail) seeds as well from various grasses and other interesting plants just to give them a try. I will have to move the pots in the spring as they are in the way for the summer shows and sales but we shall deal with that when I come to it. I am in trouble should even half of them germinate but I will deal with that devil when the time comes. Interesting enough out of all those, the two I wanted the most I did not find. Freckles and seiboldi. Yes all of those seeds were open pollinated. I don't necessarily have to have those varieties it is more to have the ones that are not available to us here. We generally get the same ones offered year after year yet there are hundreds available. Sorry, got a little off topic there. Must be the above freezing temps yesterday and some snow melt got me in the mood. Not that I can see any ground yet for snow still. We have at least another foot to melt before I can see all the things that got buried before they got put away for the winter.

What is PEX? PEX is cross-linked polyethylene. Through one of several processes, links between polyethylene molecules are formed to create bridges (thus the term "cross-linked). This resulting material is more durable under temperature extremes, chemical attack, and better resists creep deformation, making PEX an excellent material for hot water and other applications. How long has PEX been used? PEX was developed in the 1960s. PEX tubing has been in use in many European countries for plumbing, radiant heating and snow melt applications since that time. PEX was introduced in the United States in the 1980s, and has seen significant growth in market demand and production. What are recommended uses for PEX? PEX 's flexibility and strength at temperatures ranging from below freezing up to 200 degrees Fahrenheit makes it an ideal piping material for hot and cold water plumbing systems, service lines, hydronic radiant heating systems, snow melting applications, ice rinks and refrigeration warehouses. Why is PEX an excellent piping material for plumbing? PEX is ideally suited for potable water plumbing applications. It is flexible, making it easy to install and service. PEX is able to withstand the high and low temperatures found in plumbing and heating applications, and is highly resistant to chemicals found in the plumbing environment. Flexible systems are quieter than rigid piping. The smooth interior will not corrode which can affect other materials long term pipe flow characteristics. PEX is also very freeze- break resistant. PEX systems have fewer joints and are easier to install providing a lower cost installation over traditional plumbing materials. How can I be sure that PEX is a safe product for plumbing? PEX is manufactured and tested according to stringent national consensus standards: ASTM F 876, F 877, AWWA C904 and CSA B137.5. Both the product manufacturer and independent third party testing agencies conduct routine quality control and quality assurance evaluations to insure the product meets ASTM, ANSI/NSF International and CSA Standards. Compliance with the standards ensures the end user of safety and quality. Additionally, PEX is included in all of the major model plumbing codes used in the United States and Canada; NPC, UPC, IPC and NSPC, and approved by HUD for hot and cold potable water plumbing use. Where is PEX approved for use? PEX is an approved material in all the current model-plumbing codes; however, some jurisdictions using older versions of these codes may not have amended the code to include PEX tubing. Contact the local authority with jurisdiction over plumbing to verify the acceptance of PEX tubing for plumbing applications in your area. Can PEX be used under the slab? Yes. The flexibility of PEX allows it to be supplied in coils meaning installations under the slab can be made in a single, continuous length without the need for fittings. PEX is not affected by concrete, (it is commonly encased in concrete for radiant floor heating). PEX, however, must be sleeved when penetrating a slab. Can PEX be used for underground cold-water service applications? Yes. Although the high temperature resistance of PEX makes it particularly suitable for hot and cold interior plumbing applications, it also makes an excellent underground water service piping. The new AWWA C904 standard also applies to PEX used in this application. PEX can be installed using the same fittings recommended for copper tube sized SDR-9 polyethylene tubing. Can PEX be used for aboveground outdoor applications? No. PEX is currently designed for indoor and buried applications only and is not recommended for outdoor, aboveground use. Short exposures to sunlight during construction are permissible, but should not exceed the manufacturers recommendations. PEX should be stored under cover, shielded from direct sunlight or in the original packaging. In the future, PEX products rated for outdoor use may be developed. Can PEX save me money? Yes. PEX saves money in many ways. For the installer, PEX tubing is competitively priced. Installation of flexible systems is fast because of the easy handling of the tubing and PEX installation requires fewer directional fittings. Since most plumbing problems occur at joints, fewer fittings also reduce the chances for leaks and callbacks, saving the installer even more time. The homeowner saves in the cost of the installed system, and can reduce utility costs in some layouts . Home run or manifold plumbing systems utilizing PEX tubing can substantially reduce water and energy consumption in a home. The home-run concept provides dedicated direct lines from the manifold to the fixtures, reducing the amount of water that must be purged from the lines to get hot water at the fixture. Direct lines can be sized to the fixture requirements, further reducing the amount of time to wait for hot water. Faster hot water delivery reduces water waste and the amount of times the water heater must cycle to supply hot water. What is the expected performance of PEX water distribution systems? PEX is designed and tested to perform as well or better than any other material approved for hot and cold-water distribution systems. For indoor plumbing applications, PEX is expected to perform as long as copper, CPVC or any other approved plumbing distribution materials. What joining systems are available? There are several methods of connecting PEX, all of which involve mechanical fittings. There are two approved standard specifications for PEX connections: ASTM F 1807 and ASTM F 1960. Both reference mechanical insert fittings. The crimp fittings specified in ASTM F1807 are the most widely used. Other fitting systems, including insert and outside diameter compression fittings, are also available. PEX cannot be joined by solvent cement or heat fusion methods. What manufacturing methods for PEX are available? There are currently three methods for producing PEX tubing, the "Engle" or "Peroxide" (PEX-A) method, the "Silane" (PEX-B) method, and the "E-beam" (PEX-C) method . All three processes produce tubing that exceed the minimum requirements of ASTM F 876 and are acceptable for potable water distribution applications. All PEX that has been tested and certified for potable applications carries the mark(s) of nationally recognized third-party certification agencies such as NSF, IAPMO, ICBO-ES, Warnock Hersey or UL. How long can PEX be exposed to sunlight? PEX tubing is not intended for outdoor applications and must be stored in a covered environment not exposed to direct sunlight. Refer to manufacturerÂs instructions as to how long your pipe can have UV or sunlight exposure. What are temperature limitations for PEX? PEX tubing can be used up to 200° Fahrenheit for heating applications. For plumbing, PEX is limited to 180° F. Temperature limitations are always noted on the print line of the PEX tubing.. PEX systems are tested to and can be used with standard T and P relief valves that operate at 210" F and 150 psi. How are PEX systems tested for leaks? PEX plumbing and radiant heating systems can be pressure tested using water to check for leaks. Follow manufacturer's instructions. How soon after installation can you pressure test a PEX tubing installation? Most PEX plumbing systems can be tested immediately after the installation is complete but follow manufacturerÂs directions.. There is no wait time for glue to dry or joint to cool off. Manufacturer's instructions should be followed in cold climates. Where is PEX available? PEX is available through most plumbing wholesale distributors throughout the United States and Canada. Many retail building supply outlets also supply PEX piping and fittings. Piping and fittings are commonly available in 1/4" through 1" CTS (Copper Tube Size) with some manufacturers also supplying larger sizes up to 2." Because the wall-thickness is proportionate for each size, the pressure ratings are the same for all sizes. What sizes, lengths and packaging options of PEX are available? PEX is available in 1/4" through 1" CTS (Copper Tube Size) and is packaged in coils or 20' straight lengths. Some manufacturers tubing is color-coded for easy identification of hot and cold lines. Coil lengths generally run to a maximum of 1000' and are available in a variety of shorter lengths. Is flexible PEX plumbed differently than rigid material plumbing systems? Yes, the flexibility of PEX allows many directional changes to be made without fittings. PEX systems are sized in the same manner as copper or CPVC CTS plumbing systems. PEX piping is also used in high performance manifold plumbing systems that takes advantage of the flexibility and cost effective. What are manifold plumbing systems? Manifold, parallel or home-run plumbing systems are much like a breaker box for the electrical system in the home. The manifold provides a common location from which all the plumbing fixtures are supplied. Some high-end manifolds also feature fixture shut-off valves allowing the user to shut off the water to individual fixtures from one location. Others are semi-home run manifolds or termination manifolds, which may feed the plumbing requirements for a room or set of rooms and reduce the number of fittings required in the plumbing system. How are PEX systems sized? PEX systems are sized just like other CTS plumbing materials such as copper or CPVC when used in a trunk-and-branch installation. PEX can be sized in manifold systems to meet the specific demands of each fixture, reducing water and energy waste in the home. Is the thermal expansion/contraction of PEX a problem? No. While PEX expands more than other plumbing materials, directional changes made with the tubing and some slack in the tubing during installation accommodate the expansion and contraction of the system if properly installed. Is PEX freeze-break resistant? PEX piping is freeze damage resistant and can expand and contract as water freezes and thaws within the tubing. No tubing material is freeze-break proof, however, and PEX should be installed using the same locally-prescribed insulation requirements to prevent freezing of any plumbing system. How do I thaw PEX lines? When water freezes inside PEX tubing, it can be thawed using a hair dryer, warm wet rags or heat tape, taking care not to overheat the tubing beyond the maximum recommended temperature. Can PEX be joined with solvent cement? No. PEX cannot be joined with solvent cement, glues or heat fusion. PEX is installed using only mechanical fittings or compression fittings. Where can I use CPVC? Copper tube size (CTS) CPVC is designed for use in hot-and-cold-water distribution systems. CPVC systems are ideal for all potable water piping requirements in typical residential (single and multi-family), motel/hotel, mobile home, manufactured housing, light commercial, and institutional structures. CPVC systems conforming to ASTM D2846 are rated for continuous service at 100 psi and 180 degrees F and are marked accordingly. The model codes recognize CPVC's capability to handle short-term pressure/temperature excursions beyond these levels. Therefore, CPVC is well suited for usage as T/P relief valve discharge lines, evidenced by its faultless service history over the past two decades in this application. Iron pipe size (IPS) Schedule 40 and Schedule 80 are used for a wide variety of industrial applications. What about CPVC's cost relative to other materials? CPVC is a very cost-effective system. The basic molecular building blocks of the CPVC molecule are chlorine, derived from salt, and ethylene, which comes from oil or natural gas. Because 2/3 of the CPVC molecule is derived from common salt, less energy content goes into making one foot of CPVC pipe than any alternative material. The price of CPVC should remain more stable than other materials in the future. What is the expected performance of a CPVC water distribution system? CPVC piping systems have been installed and operated since 1959, and initial installations are still performing faultlessly. CPVC piping will not fail prematurely due to corrosion, electrolysis, or scale build-up in areas where water, soil, and/or atmospheric conditions are aggressive. What about product availability? CPVC pipe and fittings are available in 1/2 through 2 inch CTS (Copper Tube Size O.D.). A full range of fittings exists in all sizes. Specialty components including transition connections and chromed supply stops with CPVC solvent weld inserts have been introduced recently. Additional complementary components will naturally evolve (i.e. shower mixing valves and gate valve adapters). In applications calling for larger lines, CPVC is available in IPS sizes (sch. 40 and 80) up to 12" diameter. Transitions from CTS to IPS products can be accomplished in several easy ways. Will CPVC save me money? Yes. CPVC can be installed at least 25% more quickly than copper or iron systems. Financial savings are also realized with regard to lower tool costs and insurance advantages. Considering the frequent rise and fall of the copper price structure, CPVC offers a continuing material cost advantage, often as much as a full 30% savings. Will a CPVC system offer a financial advantage to Owners in terms of utilities expense? Yes. The thermal conductivity of a copper system is 2500 times that of a CPVC system. The improved insulating characteristics associated with CPVC can generate substantial long-term savings for an energy conscious home-owner or tenant. CPVC will keep hot water hot for a much longer period of time than copper tubing. How should I size the lines in a CPVC system? A CTS CPVC system will use the same size pipe that a copper system would, providing a full bore flow system. In general an IPS CPVC system will use the same size pipe as an iron system. What is the thermal expansion rate for CPVC, and how can I best allow for expansion and contraction when installing? CPVC piping will expand about 4 inches per 100 feet with a 100 degree F temperature change. The fact that CPVC has higher thermal expansion than metals has led to some concern. However, laboratory testing and installation experience have demonstrated that the problems are much smaller than the coefficient of thermal expansion would suggest. The stresses developed in CPVC pipe are generally much smaller than those developed in metal pipe for equal temperature changes because of the difference in elastic modulus. Should special considerations be taken to connect CPVC to a hot water heater? In some instances, yes. However, these considerations are based on concerns regarding external sources of heat. The hot water from the heater will not affect the CPVC. When connecting to a gas water hear, CPVC should not be located within 6" of the heater's flue, if the flue has no insulation. A metal nipple or flexible appliance connector should be used. This measure eliminates the potential for damage to plastic piping that might result from excessive radiant heat from the flue. If the flue is insulated, the instructions of the flue manufacturer should be followed. How can I use CPVC if I run under slab? When using CPVC with joints under slab, YOU MUST PRESSURE TEST THE SYSTEM BEFORE POURING THE SLAB. Also, it is wise to use 1" foam insulation pipe sleeve at changes in direction, where the pipe comes out of the slab, and at construction joints. The pipe should be evenly supported in smooth bottom trenches. The backfill should be free of rocks and debris. The purpose of the foam insulation is to: Provide for a degree of movement at changes in direction due to thermal expansion. Protect the tubing from shear forces due to minor shifts in the slab at construction joints. Provide some protection from abuse during the construction phase for the pipe where it emerges from the slab. Longer lengths of pipe (rolled pipe) is also available for under slab installation. Follow the instructions of the manufacturer. What method should I use to thaw a CPVC line? If the frozen section of pipe is accessible, wrap it with a cloth saturated with hot water. Keep the cloth hot by re-dipping in hot water as necessary. Be careful not to burn your hands. A second technique that is quite successful is to blow heated air directly on the area where the freeze occurred using a low wattage heater/blower such as a hair dryer. Obviously, prevention is the best way to address frozen pipe problems. Must I use plastic insulators wherever CPVC passes through a stud? Technically, no such provision need be made when passing through wood studs. When passing through metal studs, some form of protection must be used to protect the pipe from abrasion and to prevent noise. This protection may come from plastic insulators, rubber grommets, pipe insulation, or similar devices. Should I use metal nipples on a CPVC system when I come through the sheetrock? In areas where there is a likelihood that stresses or impact abuse will occur, a metal nipple is recommended. Such applications as tub fillers, showerheads, and outside sillcocks are examples. However, CPVC stub-outs for closets, lavatories, and sinks are appropriate. Should I use pipe dope, Teflon® tape, or Teflon® paste with CPVC threaded adapters? Teflon® tape is always safe and effective with CPVC. If you wish to use a paste or pipe dope, always check with the manufacturer for a recommendation because some pastes or dopes contain solvents that may be incompatible with CPVC. Should specific types of primers and solvent cements be used on a CPVC system? Are specific colors required? CPVC solvent cement should always be for CPVC piping and manufactured to meet the requirements of ATM F 493. Purple primer manufactured for PVC pipe is acceptable. Faster flashing CPVC primer is available, and is recommended for cold weather installations. Orange CPVC solvent cement and purple primer are specifically required by certain code bodies to facilitate identification by plumbing inspectors. Unpigmented CPVC solvent cement and primers are available and are acceptable in various jurisdictions. Clear cement/primer provides neater finished appearance. One-step cements are now available and are fully satisfactory if the manufacturer's instructions are carefully followed. Your local plumbing inspector can provide a final answer to this question. How long can CPVC systems be exposed to sunlight? CPVC can easily withstand the ultraviolet exposure commonly experienced during the construction phase of a project, provided on-site inventories are turned regularly as would be anticipated. If CPVC is used in above-ground, outdoor applications, protection from ultraviolet attack can be achieved by shielding or by painting the system with an exterior-grade latex paint. What are the preferred methods of cutting CPVC pipe? A benefit of CPVC pipe is that numerous, inexpensive choices of cutting tools are available to the installer. CPVC piping has for years been cut by fine-tooth saws. The preferred method is the circular tubing cutter, modified with a plastic cutting blade. This cutter assures a square, clean cut each time and is extermely efficient in terms of labor. An alternative method is the ratchet cutter. Although this option is quick and easy, the pressure created while cutting the pipe could cause cracking of the pipe wall. This problem is of prime concern during cooler weather (50 degrees F or lower). For this reason, ratchet cutters should be considered only during the summer months. Keep the cutting edges of the cutter sharpened. Several power tools have been used on major job sites where larger diameter pipe is being installed. Circular saws and portable grinders with abrasive cutting discs are two of the numerous methods being employed by contractors. I have been told that CPVC pipe can split during installation. Why would this occur? How can these cracks be prevented? Most cracks are initiated by rough handling. This handling can occur during shipment, while being inventoried at the wholesaler, or while on the job site. Also, fine cracks can be caused by cutting the pipe with dull or damaged ratchet cutters, or by using ratchet cutters in lower temperatures. The vast majority of cracks occur during colder weather months. When ambient temperatures are below 50 degrees F, CPVC should be handled more carefully. To reduce problems resulting from cracked product, several measures can be initiated: Educate your installers. Make them aware of the potential problem and instruct them to handle CPVC in an appropriate way. Use a saw or a circular tubing cutter with a plastic cutting blade (Rigid #151P or similar) to cut pipe to length. Inspect pipe ends thoroughly prior to making a joint. Should a crack be evident, cut off any split portion before proceeding. During cold weather, gripping the tubing tightly around the area to be cut for about 10 seconds prior to making the cut will warm the tubing and reduce possible problems. Are there insurance advantages associated with CPVC systems? Yes, most definitely. Insurance cost reductions result from several factors: Absence of the torch during construction. Significant reduction in injuries, particularly burns, can translate to reduced workmen's compensation costs. Reduced job site theft loss. Is CPVC a factor in reducing noise associated with the movement of water? Yes, CPVC is extremely quiet due to the polymeric structure of the product. CPVC systems are virtually silent. Also, noise associated with water hammer is all but eliminated. Are there other benefits associated with the polymeric makeup of CPVC systems? Yes. Due to the CPVC polymeric structure, costly condensation concerns are eliminated, further reducing the long-term problems that one expects with a metal installation. Also, CPVC offers a potable water distribution system that eliminates the metallic taste and potential health hazards associated with metal systems. What about health, safety, and fire toxicity issues? Metal piping interests have initiated many attacks on plastic systems, under the guise of health and safety issues. Tests performed at respected universities and independent laboratories confirm that CPVC is superior to copper/lead solder systems in terms of water quality effects and is "no more toxic than wood" in a fire. All plastics used in potable water systems must be tested regularly and certified by a similar third party certifier as meeting the strict public health requirements of ANSI/NSF 61. This testing ensures that drinking water carried by plastic pipe meets all EPA standards.

Docpops, we put our pool in primarily for our kids also. It has been really nice seeing them use it so much over the last year. There are a few different in-floor cleaning system makers, namely Paramount (various systems) and Polaris (Caretaker). After quite a bit of research, I liked Paramounts systems and approach better. Their web site is paramountpoolproducts.com. They have a lot of different systems and I tried to understand the pro and cons of each. Ultimately, I decided that there really is not much of a difference, they are more for marketing. I believe that Paramount only allows a few builders in each area to install each system. To allow more builders to put in their products, they have different lines. In our case, we went with the PCC2000. A friend of mine as the PV3 system and he loves it also. I would suggest going to their web site and watching some of their demo's of how the system works. Like I said before, all demo's make it seem like the system works great but you never know how it works in the real world. We've got a lot of trees around our pool and it does a remarkable job. I'm still actually surprised it works as well as it does. We also added their leaf catcher system. Basically, all debris in the pool either ends up in a skimmer basket or going down the main drain and in to the leaf catcher. Its really nice this time of year, when the water is cold and I can empty out the leaves from the pool deck. The nice part is that with the kids swimming, there is no polaris in the pool that either needs to be moved or just left in to swim around.

This should be required reading for all pool owners. JasonLion at Trouble Free Pool dot com created it and everything you need to learn is there... BBB for Beginners BBB stands for Bleach, Baking Soda, and Borax, three common household chemicals which can replace expensive pool store chemicals. The BBB method of taking care of your pool focuses on using simple techniques that don't cost too much. Using the BBB method, you avoid putting anything in your water that you don't need and which may cause problems. This allows you to save money and spend your time swimming, instead of driving to the pool store to buy yet another expensive solution to a problem you didn't need to have in the first place. The BBB method of pool care was originally popularized by Ben Powell at his web site and on his forum, The PoolForum. The keys to a beautiful pool are consistency, testing, and chlorine. You need to be consistent. Spending just a couple of minutes every single day can save you hours and hours of work latter on. You need to test the water so you know what is going on and can figure out what to do to keep everything in balance. And you need to use chlorine. None of the alternatives to chlorine works reliably and consistently in outdoor pools. Almost every problem people have with chlorine comes from pools that are not properly maintained. If you keep a chlorine pool the right way, people will ask you what you are using instead of chlorine. Almost all of the problems people associate with chlorine are actually problems that come from bad pool maintenance. The best investment you can make in your pool is a top quality water test kit. Accurate water test results will save you time and money again and again. The TF Test Kits TF100, Taylor K-2006, and Leslie's Chlorine FAS-DPD Service Test Kit are the current stand-out choices on the market. All three include the FAS-DPD chlorine test, and are based on Taylor chemistry. Testing and Adjusting Every day you should measure your chlorine and PH, and adjust each as needed, based on your test results. Get into a routine of testing and adjusting the water at the same time every day. The best time to test and adjust is in the evening, but if another time works better for you, go ahead and do that. Once you get used to this simple routine, it will only take a couple of minutes a day. Once every week or two you should test and adjust total alkalinity (TA) and, if you don't have a vinyl pool, calcium hardness (CH). At the start of the season, and any time there has been significant water replacement, you should measure and adjust cyanuric acid (CYA). If you are using salt or borates in your pool, you should measure them at this time as well. To adjust a level, measure your current level and enter it into the Now column of The Pool Calculator. Enter your desired level into the Goal column. Assuming your pool volume has been entered correctly, The Pool Calculator will then should you how much chemical to add to adjust the level. In several cases, The Pool Calculator will offer more than one possible chemical. In those cases, follow the advice below under the individual water test factors for which chemical to use. When adjusting levels, it is usually best to work your way up towards your goal, instead of making the change all at once. First add perhaps 2/3rds of the amount indicated, allow that to mix into the water with the pump running for an hour for liquids, two to four hours for most powders, and a week for CYA. Then test the water again and continue adjusting from there. Chlorine is an exception to this rule: go ahead and add the full amount of chlorine all at once. Chlorine (FC and TC) Chlorine sanitizes your pool, killing bacteria, germs, and algae. Chlorine is used up in the process of keeping your pool safe, and is also consumed by sunlight. You need to add new chlorine regularly to maintain appropriate levels. Chlorine can be measured as free chlorine (FC) or total chlorine (TC). TC counts both FC and combined chlorine (CC). You always want CC to be zero, and usually it is, so normally the TC test can be used to measure FC. But when something goes wrong, CC can often be greater than zero, and then it becomes important to measure FC and CC separately. The FC level you are aiming for depends on your cyanuric acid (CYA) level. You can use The Pool Calculator to find the appropriate chlorine level to aim for, based on your current CYA level. Enter your CYA level in the Now column and then look at the blue Suggested FC Levels section towards the bottom for the normal range. Or, you can use Chem Geek's Chlorine/CYA Chart for the min and target numbers, or Ben's Best Guess chart. Each of those gives you a range of chlorine levels that may be appropriate for your pool. You never want the chlorine level to go below the lower number. Add chlorine to the pool with standard household bleach. Pour the bleach slowly into the water in front of a return jet. Look for unscented or "original scent" and note the percentage. Bleach is commonly sold at 6% strength but some discount brands are lower, occasionally much lower. Bleach is sodium hypochlorite, the exact same chemical that many commercial pools use to sanitize their pools. It is also fine to use a salt water chlorine generator (SWG) to add chlorine to the pool instead of using bleach. All of the other possible sources of chlorine have problems, they add things to the water that you don't usually want, simply cost too much to be practical, or are too dangerous to work with. Dichlor and trichlor add CYA. Cal-hypo adds CH. Chlorine gas is hazardous to work with. And lithium-hypo tends to be very expensive. There are cases where you want to add CYA or CH to the water and so use of dichlor, trichlor, or cal-hypo may be justified for a limited time, but this is rare. PH PH is a measure of how acidic or basic the water is. PH below 7.0 can damage the pool surface and many pool heaters as well as causing eye and skin irritation. PH above 8.0 can lead to metal stains, plaster scaling, as well as eye and skin irritation. PH should always be maintained between 7.2 and 7.8, ideally between 7.5 and 7.8. PH can be raised by adding borax. Pour the borax slowly into a skimmer or pre-mix it with water and pour that in front of a return. Borax is available at most grocery stores and places like WalMart and Target. Look for 20 Mule Team Borax, sold as a laundry booster, in a green box in the laundry aisle. PH can be lowered with muriatic acid. Pour the muriatic acid slowly into the water in front of a return jet. Muriatic acid is sold at places like Home Depot, Lowes, and local hardware stores. It is often out near the pool supplies but sometimes is in the paint section. It is also possible to use dry acid to lower the PH. Dry acid is easier to work with than muriatic acid but costs more and should not be used with a SWG. Dry acid is sold by pool stores as PH Down, Lo-n-Slo, and PH Reducer. Total Alkalinity (TA) TA is a buffer that helps you maintain your current PH. The higher your TA is, the more difficult it will be to change the PH. However, higher TA levels combined with aeration will tend to raise the PH. The ideal TA level depends on your source of chlorine, and in many cases doesn't need to be at all exact. The usual range is between 60 and 90, though slightly lower and noticeably higher numbers are acceptable in some situations. TA is raised with baking soda. Pour baking soda slowly into a skimmer. Look for Arm and Hammer baking soda, sold in grocery stores in the baking aisle. To lower TA, you bring the PH down to between 7.0 and 7.2 with acid and then aerate the pool to raise the PH back up. Aeration can come from from a waterfall, fountain, spa jets, kids splashing, SWG, rain, air compressor, or by pointing a return up to the surface so it breaks the surface. That cycle, acid and aeration, is then repeated as many times as is needed to lower TA to where you want it. Calcium Hardness (CH) CH is added to the water so that the water will not dissolve calcium out of your plaster or grout. CH can also help prevent foaming in spas. If you have plaster, pebble, stone, or tile in the water, CH should be kept around 200 to 400. Fiberglass pools and vinyl pools with a spa should keep CH around 220. Vinyl pools without a spa should keep CH anywhere under 300, which usually means you don't need to worry about it much at all. CH is increased with calcium chloride or calcium chloride dihydrate. Distribute either form across the surface of the deep end of the pool. Calcium chloride is sold as an ice melter. Calcium chloride dihydrate is sold at pool stores as calcium increaser, Hardness Plus, and various similar names. To lower CH, you need to replace water, or if replacement water is extrememly expensive use a reverse osmosis water treatment. Cyanuric Acid (CYA) CYA protects chlorine from the effects of sunlight. The more CYA you have the less chlorine you will lose to sunlight each day. CYA also reduces the effective strength of the chlorine. At higher CYA levels you need more chlorine to maintain the same active chlorine level. If you have a SWG or get extreme amounts of direct sunlight on the pool, adjust CYA to between 60 and 80. Otherwise adjust CYA to between 30 and 50. CYA can be increased by adding cyanuric acid, often sold as stabilizer or conditioner. CYA is just about the only chemical you need to go to a pool store to get. Check the label to be sure you are getting cyanuric acid since there are other products that use the words stabilizer and conditioner in their names. To lower CYA you must replace water, or if replacement water is extrememly expensive use a reverse osmosis water treatment. Salt Salt is required by a SWG and can also be used without a SWG to improve the feel of the water. Salt can be dumped directly into the pool as long as you brush it around into a thin layer and leave the pump running for several hours. Use solar salt, sold for water softeners, to raise the salt level. Water softener salt is sold by places like Home Depot and Lowes. Look for salt crystals in the blue bags. Avoid iron fighter, rust remover, or any similar additives. You can use potassium chloride but it costs more to begin with and you need to use 17% more to get the same salt level. Borates Borates can optionally be added to the pool to help control algae, reduce chlorine usage, buffer PH, and improve the look and feel of the water. The process of adding borates to your pool is beyond the scope of this article. Everything Else There are many other pool chemicals sold: clarifier, flock, phosphate removers, enzyme treatments, metal sequestrant, non-chlorine shock, and many others. Most of these do have some use in very specific situations, but none of them are required in most pools. You should not use any of these chemicals unless you know that you are in a situation where they are required. Conclusion The leading cause of pool problems is simply ignoring the pool. Your pool is like a pet: it requires constant attention. The number two cause of problems is adding chemicals you didn't need and don't want. Not only do these extra chemicals tend to cost a lot but they can also cause problems. Follow the BBB method, spend just a couple of minutes a day taking care of your pool, and you can have a truly trouble free pool.