Slab door cabinets owners - please show me your pulls or knobs?
Denitza Kotov
11 years ago
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dljmth
11 years agokarin_mt
11 years agoRelated Discussions
Inset Cabinet Owners - Please Show Me Your Counter Overhang
Comments (14)Overhangs are generally measured from the cabinet box, not the door or drawer front. E.g., for non-inset cabinets (framed or frameless), a standard cabinet is 24" deep but the standard overhang is 25.5" deep. This 1.5" covers the door or drawer front (usually 3/4" to 1" thick) plus the slight bit of opening b/w the cabinet box and the door/drawer front. Then add another 1/2" or so to extend past the door so spills are directed away from both the door/drawer front and the interior of the cabinet/drawer. The overhang has to extend past the doors/drawer fronts, not be as deep as them. It's also a good thing to cover most of your knobs & drawer pulls so they're not digging into you as you lean against the counter. With inset cabinets, the 3/4" or so for the doors/drawer fronts isn't needed, so a 3/4" to 1" overhang is usually plenty....See MoreCan you show me your favorite knobs on your kitchen cabinet?
Comments (1)Mamadadapaige posted some great modern pulls from Mockett on another thread which would work well with your Italian cabinets. Here is a link that might be useful: great pulls...See MorePhotos of pewter knobs/pulls on your cabinet doors/drawers, pleas
Comments (6)Weathered Nickel pulls (Amerock) and Antique Pewter knobs (Anne at Home) on burgundy painted cabs: Satin nickel on gray painted cabs: A closeup of our choices set on a fir cabinet door. The widest pulls are Amerock Weathered Nickel, the cup pulls are Top Knobs Antique Pewter, the left knob is Anne at Home Antique Pewter, and the right knob is House of Knobs Antique Pewter: In this photo you can kind of see them all at once, in place. You can also see we're waiting for one more cup pull for the island...My error:...See MorePlease show me your cabinet end panels!
Comments (14)Ends left undecorated can visually relieve a room full of same-faced cabinets. Cabinet man was very insistent that we include the dummy trimming but I held firm and am glad I did. It's illogical to me to have doors into the same space from two sides, unless they're truly functional. We have asked NOT to have any "shaker" panels on our ends. It gives us a flat plane on which something else might be mounted--a decorative piece, towel rack, bulletin board, telephone, etc. Also, I won't have the dilemma of whether or not to put a knob on a phony door. Because our cabinets are wood finish, it also gives a full panel of the oak veneer instead of a cut-up one, so it's important that the cabinetmaker be aware that you'd expect a good-looking hunk of veneer instead of one with too much screwy grain. (I wish I had included that proviso in my directions regarding end panels. One is not a show-off hunk of oak, sigh.) Our cabinet man was very concerned with how to work the crown molding on a cabinet that had an end panel facing new lobby. He convinced us to inset the cabinet the depth of the molding so that there was no molding sticking into the lobby space and no need to tamper with the end of the molding. This leaves us with about 1.5 inches of paint to apply alongside the upper cabinet....See Morekaren_belle
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11 years agoDenitza Kotov
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