that is the correct foam to use. Assume expansion of roughly 1:10, so you do not need very much at all. However if you can not fit it in there, then for your climate I might recommend simply installing a foam backer rod and caulking the joint instead. Air tight drywall is just that...creating an interior air barrier to prevent conditioned air movement from inside or outside of the gyp layer. Basically concepts use rubber gaskets or a layer of caulk around the edges of each sheet prior to being screwed on. Gyp is caulk too and around electrical boxes/lights. For can lights, I actually prefer building a plywood box in the attic around the can light fixture and simply taping the edges of the box and caulking it to the gyp. This creates a tight seal around the fixture since it is hard to seal up the fixture to the gyp alone. Basically any and all penetrations through your ceiling needs to be sealed. Think of it just as that..."air tight". Google "air tight drywall" for more information. Assuming you use r5-10 insulated duct and blow the cellulose completely over them, they should be ok in your climate. Remember you MUST seal the duct work to prevent air leakage as well. This includes sealing the ductwork to the registers and the registers box surrounds to the sheetrock. Caulking and air sealing is the single most important part of efficient and tight construction. It happens to be also the cheapest way to drastically change the performance of the house. It is more important than u values, etc. On that topic, it is also important for the rest of your house as well. The more caulking/air sealing you can do the better. On the EMHE, I assume you are asking about my house. It airs first of January I think.

We're working on restoring an older (1952) ranch "bungalow" house. It originally had linoleum in the kitchen and living room, with carpeting in the hall, bedrooms and bathrooms. We took out all of the deteriorating carpeting. It was just laid down over the slab. Now we're tiptoeing through the concrete. It's a very informal house. Open kitchen & living room. No dining room. No entry way, foyer, or mud room. Three bedrooms. One & half baths. A little under 1300-sq'. Did I mention the concrete slab?!? ;-) My task is to find flooring...suitable for a retired DH, a large amputee dog, couple of small cats, and an old gal who has to clean up after the hoards. We live in a more rural area of SW Louisiana, are prone to fleas & other creepiecrawlies, torrential rains, visitors who either kick off their boots at the door or carry house shoes. Wall-to-wall Carpeting is definitely off the list. Ceramic & Porcelain tiles are definitely off the list. Laminate planks are too slick & slippery. (We had it in another house.) Hardwood is a possibility. (DH doesn't really like the hardness, tho.) Rubber is a possibility. (Colours are a bit funky but I think they're fun) I found the EVA Foam tiles while looking at rubber tiles. They come in wood grain and cork patterns, are 1/2-inch thick, 24-inch squares. They snap together jigsaw puzzle style and have different edging options (straight & beveled (probably similar to bull nosed)). One good thing is, they're rated for wet areas! Has anyone used this kind of tile on this list? What were your experiences; the good, the bad, the ugly? Given the style & age of the house, especially being slab, would it be in keeping? I'm leaning toward the cork pattern personally. I'd love a floating cork plank floor but it's all veneers and I'm loath to go that route. Especially walking right into the living room from the great out-of-doors... TIA for any shared experiences, hints, tips, and suggestions!

I've used a couple styles of foam soap dispensers - had them long before Dial came out with theirs and the special liquid soap to go with them. I use the FOAMPUMP in the kitchen. I can do MUCH better in savings than the Consumerist web site shared. It takes 2-3 T. of regular liquid soap (not those that contain moisturizers, however) and about 2 cups of water. Instead of using a small pump dispenser of liquid soap each month, that same amount will last a year or more, using the FOAMPUMP. The other is EURO-FORMER. I use this for pricey shower gel-type liquid soap in the shower. Both foamers makes a thick mousse-type foam. -Grainlady

Hello Billie, What are you trying to do with the soap you have made? The soap is good as is. If you would like to make other soap with different oils/fats, then use an on-line soap calculator (MountainSage has a free one), just put in the oils you would like to use and get the recipe. Knowledge of superfatting and water discount would be helpful. This might need more explaining to help you with their site, I haven't used their site for decades, but I use and recommend one from soapmaker.ca but it is not free. hth