Thank you all for your advice. What great folks! I will leave the top stuff alone to do its duty and will take all that rich looking stuff from the bottom. Actually, there's so much of it now that I'll be giving it away to my city friends who "rent" those community garden spaces to grow veggies. Now that I've wised up (thanks, everyone), I'll start adding other good stuff to the pile, like newspapers, cardboard, coffee grounds, etc. To think we've been taking those things to the recycling center all these years! Just giving it away, lol. One of my concerns was that there *might* be so much N in the compost that it would interfere with seed germination. But that's not the case and now I can go ahead and add the compost without any worries. I don't bag every time I mow; just this time of year when the grass and weeds are so thick that it would look like a hayfield if the cuttings are left on the lawn. Things just grow too fast and thick in the spring with all the rain. We don't use a lot of fertilizer, mostly because we are lazy AND forgetful. But we do use it on the heavy-feeders occasionally, while the plants that thrive on neglect almost never get any. Actually, I've found that keeping the roses in food prevents many of those fungal diseases, so they're the only ones that get any real attention in the form of fertilizer. This is better than resorting to sprays. But most plants simply don't need it; maybe once every year or two. Mostly I just put down some alfalfa meal in early spring and a little composted manure/humus. That keeps the plants happy. Oh yeah, potash. My soil is always testing very low on potash, so I add that once a year if it's needed. Thanks again, everyone!

Since you metioned the foliage I assume you mean Kaempferia. There are lots of different gingers. But this is one with the most different patterns on the foliage. Browse around this link and see if you spot the one you're asking about. Here is a link that might be useful:

Here's a different article I found. Have no idea if it works, but I can remember my grandmother always having a bottle of Murphy's around. Neil Murphy's Oil Soap and Iris Borers Taken from AIS Region 18 Bulletin -- Spring 2000 Michael Gullo West Walworth, New York (This article was recently on Iris-Talk and originally printed in the January 1998 AIS bulletin) I first heard about the Murphy's Oil Soap method of borer control in the January 1998 AIS Bulletin. The title of this article was "Sand and Soap" written by Marie Gebert. In the article she presented the following advice: "use a mixture of one half cup of Murphy's Oil Soap to one gallon of water. Spray on the iris leaves weekly (or after a rain) from early May to late July. This should be used after any other sprays." I use the soap that comes in the refill bottles not that which comes in the spray bottles which is already diluted. I feel that a thorough garden cleanup (very later fall or very early spring) is also very important to make borer control even more effective. I have been using this method of borer control for the past two seasons with great success. I only find a very small number of borers that manage to survive the spraying, which I promptly squish. One could probably combine the oil soap treatment and beneficial nematodes (alternate sprayings) and achieve even more complete protection. With just two sprayings last season I only found a dozen or so borers. Marie, in her article, mentions that she and others in her area (northeastern Connecticut) have been using it to great effort for five seasons (as of 1998). I don't believe in using harsh chemical treatments to control pests or other problems, so Murphy's Oil Soap has been quite a help. Your climate will dictate how early you need to start spraying. Some years the first of May is early enough, but lately here I have needed to start even earlier, usually mid to late April. If you wait till the borers hatch then it will be too late, at least to stop the early ones. I won't use harsh chemicals, but for those who do I would suggest trying a test plot for the Murphy's to see if it is as effective as chemical treatments. I know of a number of people who use chemicals like Cygon only out of desperation.

could you do something like this: [Traditional Bathroom[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/traditional-bathroom-ideas-phbr1-bp~t_712~s_2107) by Atlanta Architects & Designers Castro Design Studio Or just end the pencil before the bullnose is placed on the wall.