This old thread got revisited. @dani_m08 to answer the question about extra probe, I believe I ordered an extra one when I bought the set up. The probe wire is just setting in the junction box I think but honestly I cant remember. When I laid out the underfloor heating and the probe, I just ran another probe near the first probe, and it was then sealed into the floor self leveling compound as per instructions. then the end was just threaded into the wall like the one that would be live, and not connected, but just laying there in the box. Regarding the tile layout. I just decided to run it this way, after getting instructions on the 90Degree way, IIRC. The herringbone that I love is from my childhood and the side walks in my neighborhood that all ran at 45Degree. so that to me is herringbone. I know you posted on @sochi thread about her amazing bathroom and a wall mounted faucet. I would totally do it if I had the right sink for it. In my case I had made my sink out of soapstone and an integrated backsplash. The pictures of this bathroom reveal are no longer available because of the use of photo bucket, when it was Gardenweb. I did not keep my account with photo bucket. I'll add some of the reveal pictures so you can see the sink and floor. Regarding the sink there is no ledge for water to drip from my hands when using the faucet. The water drips right into the sink. In my other bathroom with a deck mounted faucet I am always wiping up drips and it is a nuisance. I much prefer the setup for this sink. Below: I love the flush finish from the faucet to the bottom of the sink. nothing drips on a counter or edge of a sink. Below: looking in from the doorway. Below: Here I am finishing up the sink. the backsplash was epoxied on as a separate piece. The whole soapstone install in the room took next to nothing to buy as they were all small pieces that I epoxied together with a 3 part stone epoxy. Below: this is the counter at the tub, and is in 2 long pieces but I was able to epoxy them together at there edges to make a wide slab for the top. All the soapstone was finished with a 60 grit sandpaper to be rough and this lovely soft tone of blue/green/gray/white. I did not oil it so this color tone would remain light. Below: If I recall correctly @sochi helped me decide on this Hubberton Forge Mirror. I have 3 different metals in this room, but they are all a cool silver to black color. Below: the center of this tower shares space with the kitchen on the other side of the wall. there is also some extra space that houses some electrical wiring. this is an old simple house. this bathroom was an add on when it got move to the farm in the 30s IIRC. The plumbing was all rearrange and some of the details that were orignially there I kept but updated it, such as this tower feature. The old one went and the carpenter did a wonderful job with this one. Below: This feature was another thing I kept from the old bathroom but flipped it from the other end and had the carpenter put drawers in it. Before it was a hell hole. things got lost and the build was soooo old and creapy I didn't like using it for storage. Now it is perfect for storage.

I bought a fixture for a remodel that is supposed to be installed down. We hated the way it put hard shadows on our faces in the mirror, so we turned it up and it bounces tons of ambient light all over the bathroom from a semi-gloss white painted ceiling. Looks way better and lights much better. The shades are frosted glass, which may help throw light around a bit more as well. I wouldn't try this with solid shades or cones, however, may not be enough lighting elsewhere in the bath.

After digging around Decoart's site I'm assuming that is what you're talking about and I see they have a bunch of different sealers to pick from. Ha, can you tell I don't spend any time in the craft section? Anyone know if one works better than the others? I honestly know I'm not going to scrub the lights as often as I should in there so there and the hairspray makes a nice coating that's a pain to get off. Copied from website. Americana Spray Sealer is an acrylic sealer/finisher that leaves a clear, protective, non-yellowing, weatherproof coating which provides permanent protection for all painted finishes. BRUSH-ON SEALERS An acrylic, brush-on varnish that dries to a tough, durable, clear acrylic finish for most hard surface craft projects. Americana Brush-On Varnishes come in satin, matte, and gloss finishes. DURACLEAR VARNISHES Brush-on polyurethane, non-yellowing varnishes that form a tough, flexible, clear finish that dries quickly. MULTI-PURPOSE SEALER Ideal sealer designed to adhere to all surfaces for indoor and outdoor use. Its superior adhesiveness, smoothness and durability enable its use on virtually any hard, paintable surface.

If the ceiling is white and a lot of light bounces off the ceiling, it may actually be more diffuse (and better for makeup) than pointing it down. Downlight can actually cast shadows on your face, and makeup lighting is supposed to be ideally on each side of your face at face level. If the center light is too close to your face it could be a milder variant of shining a flashlight under your chin. Les is right. Some sockets will eventually burn up if the heat of the bulb rises into(bulb down) it vs. the socket being below the bulb (bulb up).