end panels, furniture ends?? help!
cindywhitall
11 years ago
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11 years agoRelated Discussions
False drawer fronts at end of peninsula near end seating?
Comments (18)If you have kids of an age to kick one another, this is always a possibility, but generally they grow out of that behavior and it shouldn't be too important a factor for planning, any more than kicking is a factor at any other rectangular table. More important is choice of stools if this is an eating area; don't get swivel ones if there's a kicking problem. A different problem is that there is only so much knee space. How deep will your overhang be? Did you discuss going leg-less with the designer? That is, using supports underneath the countertop instead of legs? I agree that the openness is a virtue. At the very least, I dislike the faux drawers idea you began the thread with. Visually it would be weird to see that panel with the implication of a 3-D back and there be none there--like a flat Hollywood set. Is that a t.v. behind the peninsula? In that case, I even more strongly suggest that the storage unit go up against the wall and the sitters move down. That inner spot will be the last one taken whenever people sit. I think you're envisioning someone sitting adjacent to wall and trying to talk to the cook at the range. How often will that actually be the case? More often the cook will be at the peninsula washing & chopping or messing with plates. The splash goes either side of the little sink plus behind it and the seats by it will seem just a bit too close. The end seat(s) will be the premium seating: possible T.V. viewing plus conversation in three directions--toward family room and toward colleagues and cook. And it's the first seating when entering through that door. One more thing to consider--how likely are you to pull a stool around to the inside of the peninsula? If you're like us, one stool will "live" in there much of the time. So if that happens, where will it go and who will it be facing? [Your layout is very similar to mine except that your door is my refrig and your wall adjacent to end of peninsula is my hall from another room, but there is no seating until what is your second seat because the peninsula angles out there. I sit to right of the prep sink at the pullout chopping board at the corner and DH sits opposite me when we are there conversing or such. Our little undercab t.v. is over your blind corner.]...See MoreHow important are plywood end panels?
Comments (4)You probably should determine what this manufacturer means by "furniture board". If it is MDF is is probably ok. If it is a lesser grade of particle board then maybe not. That is from a structural perspective. Esthetics are something else. You should be sure to see an example of what they want to sell you and decide if it is a look that is acceptable to you. It also depends on what is laminated to the side panel - wood veneer or a plastic reproduction of wood, which won't look as good. Veneer will look the same whether laminated to MDF or plywood. The upgrade that will have the most effect on how the end looks is to put a door panel on it. IMO the toekicks don't matter much. They take a fair amount of abuse, and don't show that much. I didn't want mine to match the cabinets - I wanted black. My contractor just fabricated them out of MDF and painted them black....See MoreFinshed ends or matching door panel ends. HELP I'm desperate!!
Comments (4)When you finish out the ends after market, you first need to flush finish the ends with a thin veneer panel. This may have been done already to get rid of the 3/16 inch piece of stile that may protrude out on the end. A lot of KDs flush finish the ends on exposed cabinets as this is not too expensive. This may have been done by the cabinet company already. Then you screw on the full size door panel on the whole outside. It really adds a nice finished look to your cabinets, particularly if you have paneled doors. If you have slab doors though, it won't change the look at all so I wouldn't worry about it. This applies for cabinets with a face frame as I have never used frameless cabs. You can totally do it after install, but you need to decide if you will add them before you get your counters because it will add the thickness of the door to the cabinet. This would decrease the amount of overhang if you did it after the counters were in. If you are going to add them on, let your countertop people know the thickness of the door so they can add that to the counter length. The stress will end soon!...See Morefinished ends or matching door panel ends???
Comments (22)Hi jaymielo; I'm delighted you like the idea of our magnetic chalkboards enough to do it in your own home! What a compliment. I did a quick internet search for "magnetic chalkboard" and there were oodles of hits. I'm in Boulder, CO, so unless you're close I'm not sure how useful my cabinetmaker's (local) source will be ... but you let me know if you want me to ask and I shall! You were so close about its size! ItÂs 20" wide by 48" high. The white side panels (it appears to me) were cut out and the chalkboard panels are mounted in the back. Not sure how to phrase it -- hopefully this is where a picture is worth a thousand words! back: close-up of back: front: close-up of front (you can see here how the white panel is cut and the chalkboard is behind it): chalk ledge: Our children are soon-to-be four and soon-to-be two years-old; we wanted them to be able to access the chalkboards and chalk, so the ledges are ~26" from the floor. Even though they're low for adult-use a wonderful thing about the ledges' height is that they're low enough to not catch us (adults) in the thigh or hip (our [okay, my] widest parts [as opposed to our calves]), and the edges have been eased: I wanted them rounded but my husband didn't and since he didn't want marble and we have acres of it ... I was happy to concede. Hope this is helpful  if not, let me know and IÂll measure / take more pictures!...See Morecindywhitall
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