I just dont like mdf or mdo for outside work for a lot of reasons but thats just me after seeing termites get into a couple of projects years ago.I know its normal to use that stuff for outside trim I just disagree. Wrapping badly warped/twisted posts is a little timei the trick is finding the right size that will work out overall,that is find the worst one and aline the rest with it using a string line. They all will be over size, using the two L shaped pre fab aline the first one with a tack after they are straight intall the second L shaped member to complete the wrap There is a given with this, it will be a floating attachment that is the two L shaped members can be securly fastened and they can be secure to each other, fasting to the post will be tricky I use a nail gun and a predrill my senco tool is easy to line up with the pre drill, Anyway one guy holds the wrap in place as I nail through the pre drill being very cearfull to mind the string line top and bottom. With this done top and bottom fastening is a snap and really holds the wrap in place. Material,,,,, all of this can be done with ipe,it can also be done with yellow pine but its the same deal as pt pine speed install, white pine moves a lot less and gives a person more time to work. I vote ipe even though it will take a few more coats of primer before the top coat. J.

Its a little too late to install your posts inside the frame,like I do,with the decking down. I have used 3/4 copper pipe in the rail system coming out with a nice look installed with shop made conectors. Side Note>> twp 116 will work on copperInstaling your posts to the rim joist using 2x4 flat ways is a bad idea. The Joe has a few projects out with the ipe 2x4s at a 90. Its always a good idea to visit the premit store before you start your project. I am thinking your missing a lot of things. John

Thanks for all the nice words. Generally, I have second guessed everything I have done and feel sick to my stomach most of the time, so to have people say they like stuff makes me feel much better. I kind of like the diagonal idea too. Thanks, circuspeanut, for the picture. I don't think that detracts either. I will be doing a tile fireplace in the family room next door (not an open plan, but a large cased opening between kitchen and family room). It will be tiled in white Sonoma tiles on the diagonal with little 2x2 insets. We will also have a diagonal black/white tile floor in the front hall, so maybe diagonal is a theme. Now that i think about, the powder room paper will also have sort of a diamond pattern and will have lattice doors. I think I may go with diagonal. I really appreciate all the input. I will share more pictures of the kitchen when the drawers go in. There are more pictures on my thread about knobs--if that interests you.

I would agree with Brushworks. Go with a new construction window. Tape the windows well using a quality flashing tape and then In between the windows on the exterior you can use an AZEK trim piece, caulking the back edge when you install it to keep water from working behind the trim. You could go with a base jamb depth of about 3 1/4 or so and use an internal stop on the edge of the 4x4 or you could have a jamb made to match the depth of your 4x4 and the put a trim piece over the 4x4 to hide any possible discoloration of the 4x4's and give a more finished appearance on the interior. Use a low expanding foam between the window frame and the 4x4 to prevent air infiltration. I have gotten into using backer rod in between first bringing it about 1/2 to 3/4" from the nailing flange then spraying in the foam. The backer rod gives a small cavity to allow any water that ever gets behind the window to run down and drain out the bottom flange ( which I do not tape)