Carly, my oven I believe is the latest version. It has the Cobalt blue oven interiors and all glass doors. You know, with each oven I've used through the years.....we've moved a lot; I think they each have their own personality! Like I mentioned a good preheating of 20 to 25 minutes has always worked for me. Also, through the past few years I've replaced all my old dark color bakeware with Nordicware plain aluminum or Wilton plain aluminum bakeware. The exceptions would be specialty pieces. Like Bundt pans, loaf pans & pie plates. According to a friend who is a home economist, she states they give the best & most even & reliable baking results. I have to agree. I've rarely have a baking disappointment. Sometimes, cake mixes can be funny. Although Duncan Hines always gives a great result. Pillsbury works well too. That said, a scratch yellow cake would probably be a good test of your oven. I have to admit to have only making a few frozen pizza's so far and they baked well. Maybe your oven it is just a bit to hot. Also weather can have an impact on the end result. I did notice my new Kitchenaid oven has a reflective plate above the broiler where my previous 5 year old model did not. I don't recall the size of the coils in the old compared to the new. That said, I'm not seeing any great difference. This oven seems to be a few minutes faster than the other. However, not enough to cause any anxiety or recipe headaches. Charly, Here is a link that might be useful: nordicware bakeware

Marigene, I guess you are better at been "green" than me. I find that ziplocks/baggies works best for me when it comes to drizzling. I tend to use the squeeze bottle though for things like chocolate or caramel sauce. Then I just store the extra in the fridge. In the unlikely event that there is any leftover icing it just gets tossed out along with the bag. Tricia, I debated using one of the vanilla beans that Diana sent me, but didn't think black speckled icing would look as nice. The vanilla bean powder is a good idea. I had a big slice of Danish with my morning coffee. My favourite kind of breakfast. Ann

Thanks for all of the nice encouragement. There are several areas of the kitchen which I feel pretty strongly about, and then there are the ones I am uneasy about. I think the Marcolo / rhome concern of too many steps for something as simple as a bowl of cereal is certainly worth considering, and I am going to work to tighten up those functions which are common for us. I have one of those little "planning desks" in my current kitchen and at any given time it is piled with papers, bills, kids pemission slips, and mail. If I have somebody coming over, I quickly dump it all into a basket which quickly becomes a black hole! My little room behind the cooktop (Rachel's space) is to allow my mess, keep it close by, but keep it out of the kitchen area. I know this little space will be a favorite, and it is really there only to handle a roofline issue. The home planning area, is where I was thinking the kids could do homework --- they would be close by, but not in the loud main room --- I knew it would be darkish, and would have no windows, but that is a bit by design as the computer will not have a glare and the printer and all of that stuff can be tucked away in here. The butler's pantry will likely house the more formal china, and it is where guests can help themselves to wine, beer, drinks and a food buffet, though I think it will mainly function as a bar during parties, and food will likely be on the island. My thinking is the butler's pantry is a good connector to the dining room, and the great room, kitchen and porch. The corridor is wide enough for some milling around, and there will be a sink in there, but the related clean-up area will really be on the island. I'm OK with that. One of the other things that you've all made me consider, is the steps to do things like get cereal. What if the 2 cabinets flanking the kitchen table have a fridge and freezer drawer, coffee maker, mugs, sugar bowl, glasses and bowls on one side. On the other side, what if they have 2 big drawers (size of fridge drawers) filled with the cereal boxes. Silverware is another issue. Would it make sense to keep the daily silverware over by the table? If so, couldn't I just take the silverware basket out of the dishwasher and take it (or have the kids take it) over to that area to empty. In that case, a daily meal (cereal and coffee, and juice) would all be handled right there at the table. Clean-up would involve setting the dishes through the little pass through (I could make this a door, but I think I like the pass-through) and then loading the dishwasher, etc. Not too bad, it only involves the breakfast and clean-up area. Now, things are more complicated for other meals. Setting the table would mean getting plates, etc. out of the "dish pantry" area. In my little baking area, I think the comments are totally on --- I think I need to put uppers here for baking supplies. That would allow me to put drawers below for things like mixing bowls, pans, mixers, etc. The toaster could also go out here as well. I know I have lots lots more to figure out --- but thanks for all of the help thus far. Marcolo, thanks so much for the design and reclaimed wood, etc. encouragement. I have always loved these things and sometimes people look at me like I'm crazy, but I really love them. Good to know that I'm actually going to be current for a little while at least!

Welcome Jphales! You kitchen will have a nice defined area yet still be open...I like that. A couple of comments first, Do you have an actual layout w/dimensions and that shows how the kitchen relates to the other rooms on the first floor? That would be immensely helpful! Your elevation pic is nice, but it only has limited usefulness since it doesn't show me measurements or other rooms. It looks like the aisle b/w the island and the wall on the right is quite narrow....ideally it should be at least 42" (and that's from countertop edge to wall, not cabinet wall to wall). Is there a reason your island is bi-level? It breaks up what could be a wonderful work area...for baking, craft, or homework projects. If you're concerned about dirty dishes being visible, a deep sink is great for hiding them! Strangely, the countertop to the left of the sink appears to slope down...is that a fluke of the software or really there? I notice there's a doorway to the hallway on the kitchen wall, next to the current Refrigerator location. Then, there's also a doorway on the connecting wall. Do they lead to the same place (I can't tell from the pics in your photo album or the layout)? Can you remove the wall to the right of the island? It would give you a lot more room there. What about the connecting wall that has a door...could that be taken down as well? Can you close up the doorway that's next to your current? If so, you could run the counters to where the intersecting wall is right now... Base cabinets...I would look into mostly drawers, not doors. Drawers, in general, are more functional than standard cabinets....whether with stationary shelves or pull out shelves. Even pullout shelves are less useful b/c, first, you have to use at least 2 motions to open/close them....open the door, pullout the shelf, then push the shelf back in and close the door. If you have double doors like I see on some of them, then you have to open/close 2 doors. Whereas with drawers, you just pull to open, and push to close. Range & Hood...how wide is your cooktop? Is the vent hood above it at least 6" wider & 24" deep? Those are the ideal dimensions for venting. The extra width is so you can extend past the cooktop by 3" on each side...thereby increasing the effectiveness of the hood. Refrigerator...I would most definitely enclose that refrigerator with finished end panels on the sides and a full-depth cabinet above. If you cannot afford the full-depth, then at least pull the half-depth cabinet forward so it's flush with the end panels so it at least appears to be full-depth. Make that alcove at least 36" wide & 72" tall, btw, b/c it may be tough to find a refrigerator smaller than that today. When you replace the refrigerator, will it be counter-depth, built-in, or standard/full-depth (much deeper than 24"-30")? If full-depth, can you recess it into the wall behind it? Even better would be to recess into the room behind it so that it appears counter-depth. If so, you can have the best of both worlds...counter-depth look but the interior space of a standard refrigerator! If you can recess or you are getting a counter-depth refrigerator, make the end panels enclosing the refrigerator 26" deep to cover the entire refrigerator carcass but leaving the doors outside the panels (so they can open all the way.)