I've never seen one of these systems before and just looked at the installation instructions.
Personally, I don't like a few things about it.
- that the system requires plumbing into the suction side of the pump, resulting in the problems you are having
- that a strong oxidizer is being introduced into the water before the pump, filter and most importantly the heater.
- that the system is designed to introduce a "champagne mist" of ozone into the water. I don't like to see air returning to any pool. The systems I've installed have included mixing and separation tanks which have off-gassing capabilities.

Would it not be possible to at least inject the ozone after the equipment by installing a venturi after the heater?

Just my $.02

Looking again at the instructions, it looks to me as if the tee in the main drain line on your installation, leading to the standpipe, must be higher than the level of water in your pool.

I don't have a heater and don't plan on installing one so that is not really a problem. The only problem that I have seen from the strong oxidation so far is there are some springs rusting on a the flow check value after the filter. That is most likely due to the Ozone.

The standpipe is above the level of the pool...probably about 2-3 feet to the checkvalue. Supposedly the theory is that since this stand pipe is above the water line of the pool, you don't even need a checkvalue, the water will not travel up the stand pipe and up the tube. However, originally, I didn't install the checkvalue and I could literally see the flow gauge on the ozonator showing "reverse" flow, the ball can drop down a tiny bit...and the entire vacuum in the pump basket would drain in less than 2 minutes. Even water would end up in the flow meter that you could see around the flow ball.

I know the checkvalue is NOT working. If I close the flow meter, the pump basket stays full. If I leave the flow meter open, the pump basket empties even with the checkvalue. The checkvalue only extends the time from 1 minute to 2-4 hours.

Yes, the air returning to the system is a mess to deal with. It puts a lot of air in the pump which you can see, also air on top of the filter -- you have to hook up another pipe from the top of the filter to the return pipe to leach it off the top of the filter. However, it is what is is. I need some way for them to prove the problem is the check valve.

Also, the second installation option is to install the check valve into the pools "drain plug" and replace the drain plug. This makes more sense because it puts the ozone line "below" the water line so you only have to keep "water" out and not air. Also looking at the check valve it looks like its designed to keep water out NOT air.

Does the whole theory of "above the water line" make sense to you? There will be a vacuum on top of the water....and the other side of the Ozonator has to be "open" to allow air "in"....so why would the air and water not travel up the tube back to the ozonator just because it is above the water line? ....we are talking about a very small tube. Also in practice it does not work.

The top of the standpipe needs to be above the water level of the pool. The bottom of it, where it tees off of the suction line, needs to be below the water level.Is this the case?

I'll have to check when I get home, but I would say that I'm about 80% sure the T is above the water line by about 6-12 inches. Then the standpoint extends up another 12 inches and the check value and pipe goes up another 8-12 inches.

Ok, if it is, there seems to me there are 3 ways to fix it.

1. Cut the main incoming pipe and put the T lower. Not something I really want to do if I can avoid this because I have painted the pipes and it will be more work to remove the paint, etc.

2. Remove the ozonator exhaust from standpipe, cap the standpipe and put the ozonator exhaust into the pumps drain valve.

3. Add an air check valve behind the water check valve.

#3 is my own theory...does it sound valid or is it nonsense?

I think the check value they provide is meant for the bottom of the pump and thus it is to prevent "water" from entering the ozonator...not air as one side would have water on it. If the checkvalue was designed for air, it might prevent the air from leaking back.

I tried blowing into each side of the check valve and I was unable to actuate it.

I found a place that sells a variety of check valves:
http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=USPlastic&category%5Fname=45&product%5Fid=15650

Here is a link that might be useful: Check Valves

IMHO,
#1 is what you want to do. Still a poor design but that's how they want it installed.
#2 is a reasonable second option and worth trying to see if it helps since it's pretty simple. I suspect that you will experience the same problem though.
# 3 is a band-aid because, in my world, check valves should not be trusted for anything unless it is unavoidable because they will all leak eventually.

I think this system is quite poorly designed, personally, and would not install it on a pool I built. Maybe some other builder will chime in and explain to me that this is a good system.

Heres a link to a picture of the mixing/separation tank for the system I'm familiar with

Here is a link that might be useful: Ozone system I sell

The T valve looks like its right at the water line or possibly 4 inches above it.

I hate to cut the pipe, do all that work and have the exact same problem.

The check valve is $6.00, I could buy a couple. I don't think we are talking about a lot of pressure here...in fact such a small amount the check valve might not work.

I can try putting the ozonator into the pump...I really think that will solve the problem as at that point the check valve is below the water line and "submerged" in water. The ONLY thing that can back into the check value is water "NOT" air and I think the check value is designed for liquids not gases which are entirely different. Liquids have appreciable mass while gases do not. That explains why I could not blow the check valve open. The only problem is its even more of a kludge with a 1/4 inch tube coming out of my pump. And, it also pushes the ozone further into the stream....directly into my pump. That means anything in my pump that is metal or even remotely metal is going to rust. With the ozone introducing up downstream a bit, it gives it a little bit better chance to deconcentrate, react away and decompose to oxygen.

I am still researching ozoneators. I called the West Coast Pool Service about the Vision Ozone. I was told they would not ship a unit to MS because they can not service them here.

I called Aqua Sun Ozone twice. I still have not gotten any info from them.

I am considering a Prozone PZ7-2HO. They are in AL. I can easily get one off Ebay.

So which Ozone units is anyone using?

On Ebay they have an ozone/SWCG combo that I saw. Can't speak to it or any of these other makes.

Have you all solved your installation issues on the UltraPure ozone generator? How much electricity does the unit use?

Barco,

I just ran across your post here and thought I'd give you some advice on your situation. To start with, I am the National Service Manager for UltraPure Water Quality, Inc.

The first thing I'd like to point out is that even though your UltraPure is plumbed into a tee on the suction side of your pump, this is not a true standpipe installation as the tee is above the pool waterline. Because of this, you still require a check valve to be installed, which brings me to my next point.

Our check valves are designed specifically for Ozone gas, meaning that they have Ozone resistant Viton seals and stainless steel springs. The purpose of the check valve is not to keep water from entering the Ozone generator, it is there to keep the water in the pump from draining when the pump shuts down. These are custom made check valves which will handle the Ozone gas for a number of years, but as with any check valve they will fail at some point.

You failed to mention a couple of critical points before telling people to stay away from our company and it's products.

1. How old is your UltraPure system (any check valve will fail at some point)?
2. Who installed the system, and why were these issues not taken up with them?
3. Did you try calling UltraPure to diagnose your problem? If this is a legitimate problem with our product and not the installer we will be happy to find a resolution.

We have been in constant business since 1982 and pioneered the suction-side injection method for the Ozone delivery in residential pools. When installed correctly, less than 1% of air/Ozone mixture (by volume) is introduced through the pump/filter/heater. This method of installation is far superior to a pressure-side "venturi" method for the following reasons:

- We inject Ozone into the highest pressure point in the system, between the pump and filter. This forces the Ozone mixture into the water with the use of the pump impeller.
- Most of the oxidation work is done in the pump and filter, also degreasing the filter in the process.
- The small champagne bubbles that exit at the pool returns have mostly reverted back to Oxygen by this point.

By using a "venturi" type injector on the pressure side of the pump none of the above benefits are possible. There is very little pressure to force the Ozone into the water, very little contact time for the Ozone to effectively oxidize the water, and the resulting "live" Ozone that exits the returns can "bleach" the sides of the pool above the return jets.

We believe in our method to the point that we will not offer our products for a pressure-sided installation, that is the "old fashioned" installation method we did a number of years ago. I can assure you that your problem is not common as we sell thousands of units per year and have a warranty rate of less than 1% (manufacturing standard is 5%).

We are the market leader for Ozone systems for residential pools and are a very respected manufacturer in the pool and spa industry. Our products have been tested and proven for effectiveness and reliability by ourselves and numerous third-party resources. We do not manufacture products that do not live up to our claims, which is why we do not and will not manufacture any Corona Discharge (CD) Ozone generators.

Please feel free to contact me with any questions or concerns and I would be happy to help you out.

to WOMANOWNED,

Our pool units, depending on model use either 1A to 2A. You are only running 1 or 2 UV lamps (similar to fluorescent lamps).

Thank you,

Brian Richardson
National Service Manager
UltraPure Water Quality, Inc.
877-281-7603 ext. 237

Here is a link that might be useful: UltraPure Website

I am in cascades court on this one. Until proven otherwise, injecting any oxidizer upstream of all of your equipment can only have a negative effect on that equipment.

The ultrapure unit calls for a tube from the filter manual air relief to a downstream injection point after the heater. This collection of ozone at the top of the filter has to damage the filter lid, auto air relief collection tube and the manual air relief apparatus. If ozone moves through the auto air relief, it will be going right into the multiport and heater.

I will accept that the pump impeller breaks up the ozone into smaller bubbles, which is better for more contact, but I would like to see some info about ozone performing better under higher pressures.

Renovxpt...are you promoting another product? Your negative attitude on this product is pretty clear. I happen to like it a lot, so maybe we will cancel out each other.

No, I am not promoting another product.

There are a lot of ozonators out there that do not operate contrary to what IMO is the rule of thumb for injection points for oxidizers. The way Ultrapure reccommends installation seems like a very rinky-dink setup IMO.

Having said that, I am going on vacation, so don't expect a response for a couple of weeks. See ya!

Bringing back on old thread, anyone have any recent experience with the Ultrapure ozone generators? Installing one in my new pool build which should be done in about a week and a half. Only thing left is electrical, decking and plaster.