The built in measuring device on the salt system is not that accurate. A variance of +/- 300 ppm is not unusual. In the field, I use a salt tester that I calibrate about once ever 2 weeks or so to insure it is reading correctly. With that being said, there really is no calibration, and my tester is not subject to calcium build-up like the plates of a salt cell are. The salt level may not have changed, the voltage passing through the cells may have which is changing the way that the salt level is being read by the intellichlor. Cleaning the cell may help, but again I see +/- 300 ppm not to be something unusual in a salt system.

I think it really may depend on where you live, the size of your pool and water features. I live in SoFla and have a natural waterfall and a pool that is about 35k gallons. On my pool I add tons of Chlorine during the summer since the SWG cannot create enough chlorine to prevent algae blooms. I have had the company rep come out several times to test the unit and they all say it is working properly. I am at a point now that I have shut off the SWG and I am hoping with the summer rains that the salt will slowly work its way out of the pool or get to a level that it is insignificant. One very negative aspect of salt I also discovered is that it makes the water extremely toxic to most plants that are near the pool.

Its not an issue to use chlorine with a SWCG.... But-- you have to ask yourself why? Six (6) hours is plenty enough time for your SWCG to maintain the right chlorine level for your pool. You have some other kind of problem. Not enough Salt? Setting on the SWCG too low? No CYA? Too much CYA? Are you using a cover on your pool? Buy a test kit and salt test strips, what is the full readings on your pool including salt? What is your SWCG set to on the panel? Your pool is awfully warm which makes me suspect you have a cover on...if so, this can create a wonderful environment for algae. In our last pool with a SWCG, Chlorine levels of 5-6PPM, CYA at 40-50, Phosphate at

janesm....have you sampled the water coming directly from the cell while it's set at 100%. The chlorine reading using this method should be very high and off the scale if the cell is working properly. Make sure the cell is set to 100% to ensure it should be producing chlorine and not in a "resting" or "reversing" cycle. Turn the sample tube upside down so it does not fill with water and move it towards one of the pool returns while keeping it upside down. Once over the pool return, turn the sample tube right side up to fill it with water directly from the cell. Once it's full, put your finger over top of the sample tube so it does not mix with pool water while you're bringing it to the surface. Test the water as you do normally and if the cell is working the chlorine level will be very high. If the chlorine is low, then the chlorine generator system is to blame. If the chlorine is high, then something is demanding the chlorine quickly. Since your stabalizer level is 70ppm, it's not the sun reducing your Fc but something else...it may be algae, phosphates feeding the algae or some other bio-baddie in the pool...such as something dead in the skimmer or pump basket or small children using the pool frequently, etc. You may also consider extending the pump run time in the summer months to turn the pool 2x instead of the normal 1x. This will allow the cell to produce adequate chlorine at a lower setpoint which will extend the life of the cell. Also, during the summer, running the filter pump and producing chlorine at night is better than running it at daytime for numerous reasons. Hope this helps.