I'm not sure about that ... I think it rises in the southeast and sets in the southwest  farther south in the winter, but always in the southern sky (in the temperate northern hemisphere). A south-facing slope receives the sun's rays more directly (and so more intensely), a north-facing one more obliquely (and with longer shadows). Changes in day length have to do with the angle between the axis of the earth's rotation and that of its orbit around the sun. The length and timing of the shadow will be different during the growing season and now. Especially with trees there, you may be wise to start well away from the fence. I would think 15' would give you years before the trees cast a shadow on your garden plot. There's a growing tree just to the east of my garden, and it casts shade, especially on the eastern edge, for a couple of hours each morning. I find it's a handy place to lean tools against, hang my coat, and get some shade if I'm out working. The small amount of lost light doesn't seem to make any difference. Here is a link that might be useful: Sun and seasons

Need more details before realiable answers could be formed, What cultivar of Cherry tree are you planting? Which root stock is the featured cherry tree grafted onto? What is your USDA temperate zone? I am wondering if your location must be quite mild or even more often cold than moderate if your Sunset zone is only a 2 or 3. Is this an ornamental cherry tree, or a fruiting variety. If not ornamental, you might get more reliable answers if you post your question on the fruit trees forum.

I agree with Dave, you look like you're too close to the fence with your weepers. I'd start off with defining your bed from the lawn. It looks like you could come out to the lower part of the picture with no trouble, unless there is something interfering that I can't see. Most people make their flower beds too small and end up trimming the plants in the bed so they won't go out over the lawn, or better yet, cutting back on the lawn, giving the plants more room. It's easier to do it right the first. I also agree with Doug in that two of one kind side by side is a bit formal. Just a personal opinion. Formality comes with it's own set of problems. I've had a garden for over thirty years and deciding planting distances on growth in ten years can be a mistake that you will regret later. The blank distances can be filled in with groundcovers and mulch. I don't like to say, 'and temporary plants that you will move later'. Sometimes that doesn't happen. Ask me. :-) By the way, where are you? Mike

The seer of systems are rated with 15 ft refrigerant runs. Not the ideal or average conditions. The cooling and heating capacities remain pretty stable up to 50' runs, but the seer ratings begin dropping imediately after the 15', but in very small amounts and isn't an issue if the refrigerant lines are the correct size and the runs are not more than 75'. There are disagreements in this information with the engineers, but the amounts are moot. Most systems are rated for 90 ft runs with no ill effects. I've seen 120' runs and no apparent problems with the exeption of the compressor running higher than normal amps, but not enough to cause a shutdown. A liquid line running a very far distance across a very hot attic can pick up enough heat to reduce it's capabilities. The return line should be well insulated with at least 1" walled insulation. Anyway- don't worry about a 40' run- no problem.