Try this: right-click My Computer and choose Manage. From the window which appears, click Disk Management. The right side of the window will now list the available drives on your computer. You'll see Disk0 Basic (which should be your main hard drive). If you have a zip drive installed, it's probably Disk1. Your flash drive will be listed below your hard drive and zip drive. Look for Removable and the size of your flash drive. It should say something like 256MB or 512MB. It may also describe your flash drive (model, manufacturer) to the right. Once you've found it in the list, right-click once on it and choose Change Drive Letter and Paths. NOTE: Make sure you are changing your flash drive and not another drive. If you're changing something called C: or D: or E:, STOP and reconsider. Then click the Change button and choose a new drive letter for your flash drive. Choose something like Z or Q or Y or X. If you're not sure what drive letter to use, open up My Computer and pick something NOT already listed there. Once you've changed the drive letter, save your changes and exit the window. Your drive should now be displaying under My Computer with the new drive letter.

Hi Eosinophil, FIRST of we need to back away from the minutiea... up, up, up to get some bigger picture perspective, like an architect starting with very simple pencil sketches on a blank piece of paper... so that we can THEN come back down to the nitty-gritty and micro-fit the situation to your specifics. What is more important to you; Eliminating your outstanding leverage balances on an accelerating basis, or stopping the monthly bleeding? (These are at counter-points for you currently.) Are you more concerned about the balances on one property versus the other... or about your overall family position on balance? How much accrued liquid cash reserves do you have socked away? How much is your gross family monthly revenue? How much is your current gross (including minimum payments for all debt and homes) family cost of living? You are paying to rent the money you are using for retaining the ownership of the old home (the interest costs.) This interest is a "sunk cost" each month you pay it, if you have no tenants paying you for its useage. Is your continuing ownership giving you *any* appreciation currently? (Keeping in mind that market appreciation is a VERY tentative guess, at best, in the current environment... and if it is negative, you need to honestly figure it that way as well.) IF so, how much is the appreciation when calculated into monthly dollars? How much of your sunk interest costs are being ofset by your potential monthly appreciation gained? Whatever your sunk costs of interest, minus your dollars from appreciation (or plus the dollar costs, if depreciating currently,) is what you can call your "monthly burn." This is the consumption of your net worth you are incurring to continue carrying this property. NOW... this home CAN be sold (gotten under contract with a 30 day escrow period, or less) within a 2-6 week marketing time, AT SOME LEVEL OF PRICE, AND ADVERTISED EXPOSURE. This "price level" is what we call the "quick-sale price value." If your agent were to (honestly) determine the realistic quick-sale price level in that local market... it would likely be lower (perhaps much lower) than where you are holding out right now... and the agent would likely need to ramp up some significant marketing costs... which they might only be comfortable doing with some funding (or guarantees) from you. All of this, naturally, is going to be a revenue burden off of what you were previously hoping to sell your home for. NONETHELESS... this is a numeric exercise that is CRITICAL to do... RIGHT NOW... because it will give you the numerical difference between where you are right now in realistic net worth, were you to do this immediately..... VERSUS how much you are "burning through" on your monthly burn rate if you simply close your eyes, cover your ears, pray really really hard, and just keep waiting it out. KNOWLEDGE AND AWARENESS IS POWER... and you can't make an objective financial decision unless/until you have the actual facts in front of your face to review and think about. ========================================================= OK... soapbox aside..... *IF* you decide that you have reason to believe that simply waiting longer will actually be worth your while in a higher sale price... then there *is* investment property financing available in the range of 3.5% to 4.5% APR, on an interest-only basis, up to 70-75% LTV, strictly on a fully documented (income, employment, assets) basis... which could very significantly reduce your monthly burn overall. Its something I have at my firm... but not to be 'spammy' there may be other brokers (perhaps your regular loan broker) who have it as well. Its not a retail program, so you'd definitely need to connect with your broker for it. ========================================================= ALL THINGS CONSIDERED... (And in truth, we haven't seen enough details to truly consider all things...) I would *PROBABLY* be leaning toward advising you to take a deep breath, swallow hard, plug your nose... and have your agent re-price the home to the local quick-sale price... and get it over with while we're in the summertime "moving & home-buying season." All the best! Dave Donhoff Leverage Planner

" ... that is a great point regarding the trim. As of now, the door will either have no trim or very minimal, so I'm hoping it won't matter." Even if it doesn't matter function-wise, IMO it looks better to have at least some filler between a cabinet and the wall, especially if the doors are full-overlay. My thoughts on a wide drawer stack next to the range ... the things I want most right next to the range are the things I want to grab quickly while cooking ... whisks, can openers, pot holders, splatter screens, etc. I don't mind my pots and pans being located a bit farther from the range (but I still want them close by) as I am not likely to need to grab an extra pot quickly while standing at the range cooking, but I might need to grab a spatula or a whisk quickly. I think it's a matter of personal preference, though, as to what you want nearby while cooking, but something to think about. I also like to have my plastic wraps, tin foil, etc. located in the prep area where I'll be using them. Regarding the two dishwashers on either side of the sink ... I have a dishwasher that has a handle that protrudes. I despise standing in front of it to do anything, and luckily I don't have to because I have plenty of prep space to the other side. While I like the look of your single dishwasher arrangement, I would want the kitchen that worked best for me, and if that involved two dishwashers, I would work around that requirement

Thank you above all. 1, yes, this brown dome skylight is no cost, it was wrapped well in my attic from previous owner, I just teared off wraps. My understanding is the current cracked one has been there at least 15y, For me, it is acceptable if it could make another 15y after replace it. 2, I can go to glass one under reasonable cost ( is glass easily to crack?), but don't know where to order, if the new glass one need totally redoing the frame, it could increase the cost a lot, I hope I could get it done under $500. 3, I don't know any pro around and where to find one, Those guys who replaced my roof said: since the underneath iron frame was nailed in, they could not simply replace it. But, after I checked the structure in and out ( Please see the diagram I drew), it looks to me, I could replace it without touching the iron base frame, so not touching outside flash either, I could only unscrew the outside "retainer frame" then put back with new skylight.