Newbie Deck Builder Questions

17 years ago

Hi all... I need to replace an existing 20yr old PT deck. While I'm at it I want to make it larger with the possible addition of a three season room on it. The existing deck is solid but old and is roughly 16x13. My new deck will be 20x37 and wrap around to the side entrance. Here are some questions and I realize the answers are probably buried deep in the forums but would hope consolidating them would be easier for the experts to answer and help others as well:

I'm considering IPE or other hardwood. Would it be better to use the longest boards possible or use shorter lengths. 6' or 8' as opposed to 10' or 12'?

Will I have to dig footings for the extension to the existing deck or could I join a board to an existing joist. The extension would be about 4'.

I saw a bunch of posts blasting the metal cleats. Is the IPE clip that joins grooved boards also a bad idea? Are face screws the only choice? I know some people don't mind the screw holes but if given the choice I'd prefer not to have them.

While I may attempt this myself (myself being the gopher and water boy for very handy friends) if I do opt for a professional is it important for them to have hardwood experience? I know it's preferred but is it a neccesity?

BTW... I live in NJ where the temperature extremes are severe. Sub-Zero in the winter to 100 degrees in the summer.

I'm not even going to ask about finishes as I think I can figure that one out by surfing the threads :)

If you know of any local source for IPE and/or recommended decking contractors please advise. Somerville Lumber has IPE and other hardwoods but it's over $3.00/lf and they REALLY push composites.

If anyone has a hardwood deck in the 08801 area they would let me and wifey see I'd appreciate it.

Thanks in advance for your help!

--JJ

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Comments (9)

john_hyatt
17 years ago
Hey JJ,you might get a better price using shorter material but it will take longer to insall, your building a new project its a good idea to add new footings and check the old ones,Dont use the clips,for the no fastener look you can go T&G Ipe,or screw and plug, if you hire a contractor he shold know what hes doing you dont want him to learn on your deck also ask for workers comp and libality,Many stores push composite because they get a major bounse back from the Co,they mostly dont care how long it lasts or what kind of problems your going to have down the road,they just sell the stuff,I have done business with East Teak Lumber for a lot of years with only a big thumbs up all the way around, if your thinking about going with ipe give George a call>>800 338 5636. John
jerseyjoe
Original Author
17 years ago
Thanks John...
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gorillabuilder
17 years ago
You'll have to add footings as John said. Alot of them. You are going from 16x13 to 20x37.
That's 4 ft wider on the existing deck and 24 ft in new length. Polish your post hole digger. It's going to be busy.
srercrcr
17 years ago
Water and wood don't mix.
Composites are recycled plastic.
Plastic and water DON'T mix.
Pretty simple concept.
sweet11395
17 years ago
jerseyjoe,

I just recently put in an IPE deck and am all but finished with the build (little trim work to do on a hip wall/planter) and am getting ready to put some TWP #516 on it....I used the clips and am satisfied with them....not ecstatic about them....saw alot more movement on the lower deck that is close to the ground...like most said hear...if your a perfectionist like I tend to be...go with countersink, face screw and plug. Somerville's IPE is crap!!...I bought a few boards there and had to take them back...warped in a few days....I originally ordered mine main lot from Advantage Lumber in NY....it was a hassle to get it delivered....go with George at East Teak as others have said....and when you run out at the end of your project you can get some good stuff at Fox Lumber in Clinton, NJ just next to the Agway/Weichert Realtor. MAybe we can work something out this weekend if you really want to see an IPE deck (unfinished). I am just south of the Califon area
jerseyjoe
Original Author
17 years ago
Sweet... Sent you an email.

Gorilla... I realize I'd have to add for the additional length but thought I may be able to daughter board out the additional 4 ft. Guess not. I haven't inspected everything real well yet, I may have to rip and replace all existing material anyway. I dread the footing work as my soil is clay.

I spoke with George today about pricing. Great guy...great price.

If I decide to face and plug could I order the plugs or would it be better to cut my own from the same order of wood? I'm thinking matching color/grain but I'm guessing it's probably not a big deal if I'm gonna stain.

If I decide to just face, which screws would you recommend?

Thanks again!

--JJ
brooklyndecks
17 years ago
JJ,
I face screw all of my decks. If I'm gonna plug, I get screws from mcfeelys.com. nocorode 8x2.5" bugle heads.

If I'm not plugging, I use 8x2.5" brown headcote SS trim screws. countersunk just a bit below the surface. I sand all my decks before I put down the finish, and I hate sanding the brown epoxy off the screw heads (it happens, but then I replace the screw)

I make my own plugs. I don't have the time to perfectly match the color, but I run the grain in the right direction.

steve
Sprinks
17 years ago
A third thumbs up for George. Terrific guy--knowledgeable & did exactly what he said he was going to do, which is all too rare. Excellent product.

I highly recommend renting an auger or skid steer to dig more than 2 or 3 footings, and buying the concrete from a local supplier. For my 11 footings, I calculated my hand-mixing labor at 8 hours.

If you have an urge for a road trip to Chester County, PA, you're welcome to see my Ipe deck.

Sprinks
jerseyjoe
Original Author
17 years ago
A question about lighting. Has anyone used long 4x4's for the rail system and put a light on top? I'm thinking like 6 or 8 foot from the deck surface. I thought it might be a practical and different look but I've never seen it so I could be WAY off base.

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