Thank you, byron, I was trying to answer someone who looked to the gubermint for truth. So I used gubermint sources. justaguy, if you dislike the organic vs. synthetic distinction, let me make it more clear -- untested-and-new-chemicals vs. millions-of-years-old chemicals. Good ol' Captain Kirk mixed a couple of chemicals together to make gunpowder in a rock, that's been a known combination for hundreds of years. Most of the other combinations are known too. But what happens when we combine Glyphosate with anything else? How about humans? We're just learning about those results. What about gene splicing -- what happens with that? What about the stuff they're spraying on your potatoes? How much testing has been done on that? Yes, natural chemicals and toxins are bad. So is too much water. We know what those things do. What about the new things that we're adding and spraying and eating? We have no clue. That is why I will not use synthetic chemicals in my garden, because I'd like to know what the hell they do before I get stage two liver cancer, and my spouse's carcinoma has metastacized to the lymphatic system. There are solutions to hand. In my mind, it's better to use them than to reach for something that has unknown results. striped cucumber beetles = less beans striped cucumber beetles + hand picking = labor + more beans striped cucumber beetles + safers = more beans + residue striped cucumber beetles + DDT = max beans + unknowns Just this once, I think I'll stay away from the lazy path, no matter what Ruth says.

I don't think the wall sheathing is designed to only be attached around the edges either and will probably warp pretty badly. That's why you'll need studs spaced at least 24"oc in the walls as well. Using pressure treated for the base plates is necessary (as you knew) but the rest is totally unnecessary. Make sure you use galvanized nails when using PT lumber. I'm thinking 4x4s because it will make stronger joints especially at the corners--toe-nailing 2xs together to make a sill seems too flimsy if there should be strong winds. Flimsy? Most houses are built using 2x4s, so it will be plenty strong enough for a little shed. Plus, if you want to make something stronger, it is much more beneficial to use 2x6s than 4x4s. And, if you don't like to toenail (even though there is nothing wrong with that) then build the walls laying on their sides so that you can nail up through the base plates and down through the top plate, and then tip the wall up into it's proper position and attach it to it's neighbours.

Any wood has cupping issues, 2x6 and 5/4 as well... never seen 2x8 being used as decking boards. Heavy to carry, if you have a 16' I assume you would use 2x8-16' to eliminate joints each board weighs 70LB and even if you use 12' and stagger them each 2x8-12' is 50LB vs. 5/4x6- 12' weighs approximately 10-18LB depending on how wet it is... As decking goes, I never seen or heard anyone using 2x8 as decking material. Heavy to carry, if you have a 16' deck, I assume you plan using 2x8-16' to eliminate joints, each board weighs 70LB and even if you use 12' and stagger them each 2x8-12' is 50LB vs. 5/4x6- 12' weighs approximately 10-18LB depending on how wet the board is...

I'm with John. While I have not seen any specific studies to support this, I don't think the CCA and ACQ are any different. What is noticable is the continued deterioration in the quality of yellow pine PT lumber. Anything with growth rings the width of your finger is not going to stay straight. Also, note that not all PT is "ground contact". Much of the 2-by PT lumber sold by a local big box is not ground contact grade. Errol