Golfer, Very ambitious job for a DIYer. Obviously, you have some skills. Bullnose router bits are available. If you just use a roundover bit, you have to rout from both sides, as you now know. It's tricky too, as the bearing has to ride along the exact center of the edge. the problem with the bullnose bit is that you need a clamped straight edge to guide the router. I use 50 grit paper on my ROS...and I like the results. I checked out your pictures. Using a transition board between your converging diagonals was a good idea (more forgiving), but you should have lined up the boards a bit better. the beadboard looks OK, but the Ipe will last "forever"...how long will the beadboard last? You should have used Ipe there too. 2" overhang is excessive. You may have a cupping issue later on steve

Hi digm - sorry it's taken me this long to respond, I didn't receive a notification email of your posting! About 3/4 of the deck on the far side gets heavy duty sun exposure about 6 hours a day and as the day goes on (and the world turns) the other deck (along the windows) gets the same amount of afternoon sun, so yes, it gets lots of sun exposure, also we have lots of wind blown rain here. I mispoke in my previous posting - the ipe was AIR dried, not kiln dried, I don't know what I was thinking when I said that. yes, the 'Mini EbTy' (actual name on the box) I believe are the 3/32. They worked great and yes, the instructions say to use the glue. I searched out several different web forums re EbTy and found most people who reported using the EbTy clips did NOT use the glue. Only the most fastidious of the lot used the glue. I can tell you, if I had used it I would most likely still be out there permanently stuck to those boards!!! I also learned an entirely new language while installing that went something like this @!!$X*%!....:) While the end product looks beautiful (use a cleaner and brightener then apply Messmer's per instructions) it was a real challenge for me to get the boards to submit. It's a pleasure to look at, relax on and was well worth the effort. Pat

After thinking about this some more I thought I would offer some clarifications. I probably over simplified it. 1) In my pattern the first board was the one to the left of the center of the center of the door(I'll call that L1). That piece needs to have the corner clipped off at 45 degrees. You should find the center of the board , then remove a 45 degree piece from there. For T&G the tongue should face forward. The remaining flat piece will need to have a groove cut in it. 2) The second piece is the center right piece(I'll call that R1). You cut it off at a 45 with the tongue side long and the groove side short. This piece gets laid in with the tounge of R1 in the groove you cut in the end of L1. You will then be looking at a V pattern with both tongues facing you. 3) To build out towards the wall you will need to make splines. The splines will go into the groove side of L1 and R1 and allow you to lay up the remaining boards towards the wall. If you are not doing Tongue and Groove you don't have to worry about these details. In my case with the door, I planned on making a threshold extension, so the cuts along the wall did not need to be precise. 4) When you are ready to go away from the house, go back to the left side. Square up the end of the board that will next on the left side, then cut a groove in the squared end. That groove will be received by the tongue of R1. Once set, you go back to the right side and repeat. I could get into more detail on how I made it fit into the boards that are perpendicular to the house but they may not apply to you and I don't want to bore anybody too badly. Hope this is helpful, let me know if I need to clarify anything else.

These days most faucet manufacturers use flex lines to connect the water lines under the counter, so you can make use of that fact today, when you get any two handles and connect them onto that unusual 45 degree angle shelf. Any spout you like will fit onto the horizontal part of the shelf. "Shelf mount" was the term used back then, because it is a surface that projects out from the wall. To keep it simple, get the handles and spout from the same company. Then, you know their hose connections will be compatible. Verify this before ordering anything. Definitely use the key word "commercial" in talking to the tech support people when you call anyone. The right spout and two separate valves using flex lines to connect to the spout. This will be in the "commercial" lines. In web sites, look for the commercial faucets section. If no luck, look in the bathroom faucets section. There are many that use flex lines. Moen and Marathon (div. of Chicago Faucets) are two companies that I can think of that I would start with. I happen to know some Moen parts for single handle valves: 8137 with spout and 8125 without spout (you install another shaped spout). If you look at their exploded parts diagrams you will see the flex lines. Ask the company what they can suggest in 2-valves instead of 1-mixer-valve. There are many commercial faucet companies. An old time plumbing supply house may be able to help you spot a few options right away. Today, it is not a problem that the valves (handles) are on a 45 degree sloping surface. Ten years ago it would have been a different story.