Yes, that room is all sorts of gorgeous sophistication, but again, when I look at many of the Houzz pics, I can never tell if what I am responding to is the elements themselves in a fabulous space or the overall space itself. And this journey isn't quite so fun for me! I confuse myself every day. Point in case, what do you think of something like his chair with a bit of wood around the frame for that corner? Not necessarily in ivory, but I am thinking that the wood frame helps to tie it into the colors in the rug and the sofa, so the addition of another color there wouldn't seem so random. But maybe the style is completely off (disclaimer - I love love love the style) Of course this chair is solid walnut and thousands of dollars, but if I decide I like it perhaps I can find a more reasonable similar option.

a lot of dishwashers are handle-less. It seems it would be fine to the left of sink. there will be stuff on island and peninsula so the peninsula location at[pivot and step] from sink seems it would be fine-even better in a way.rinsing of dishes is not de rigeur anymore.I don't know-I just get a funny feeling about the plan-switching range and fridge would help. I think it's something about the "center of gravity"-I'm not feeling it-there are several sections here but in the end, the "center" ends up the floorspace in the middle,oddly. Here's something-what if you had a long elongated U coming off the window wall---the sides would extend less than the peninsula..then do an island running left to right with stools across back. It's more straightforward and "center stage" which to me your space is asking for. I guess the island off to the left seems marginalized to me....for your lg space you get 3 seats? not good use in my opinion. You could have 10-12 feet of island running left to right, along with ends, so calculate seating potential with that. Also-at the left side of a U, coming from piano plaza, you could do the structure necessary to back up your fridge/ panel and finish off end and back so the fridge is situated on that arm of U-facing in. then place bench or deacon's bench on the back of this wall or whatever you construct. This carries theme of bench at front hall.[I like benches] This would be nice in that mini area. Maybe if you just pause,walk through and look at your existing space and ideas on paper as they have evolved and go back to your goals. You'll get something great here.

Hi Atheen....I am glad to help you) Any environmental change can cause stress. From mail to your home. From nursery to home. From outside to inside . From cold temps ton heat. Just a different area from what it's been use to sitting in . From high light to low light . From outside light to inside light conditions. The good news is that we can minimize the impact as much as possible with a few tricks ! Yes, just as I thought...I didn't make a blanket statement not to fertilize at all, because every one has a different set up as mine, live in different climate zones, provide different conditions, and yet and all plants need nutrition when actively growing .. I have no problem not fertilizing although one should pull back, meaning go very light on fertilizing..People like me have too because if I fertilized the way I did during the growing season, meaning all months other than October, November, December and January, I would get spindly growth and pests. My growth would not be hardened off before they are exposed to much less light and I would be inviting a host of problems...That is why I am lazy about fertilizing my trees or not at all. I have no issues with them at all holding back all together....Many cause root issues especially up here in the north once their trees are inside especially with poor soil mixes, salt toxicity, inside heated dry air, no air movement, poor watering habits and poor lighting, and if they are not careful can damage roots/trees even further with fertilizers..That is why unless I am growing my trees under strong lights, warmth, full sun or greenhouses, and know that the roots to my trees are functioning properly, I err on the lighter side of fertilizing during the coldest darkest days of winter and fall....I can fertilize in the 5.1.1 mix because it is a much more forgiving mix, but I still have to be careful)) I personally don't like to fertilize at all during November, December and January, any of my trees in less than ideal conditions.. Yes, I think the leaves up in the top pictures looked droopy and I tend to think you hold back on watering more than you should or water too much. I think you should use a wooden dowel until you get use to watering now that they are inside....If you let those leaves droop just once, it is common for severe leaf loss or drop suddenly to boot..If they stay wet to long just once, they will drop leaves just after they are brought in..If I am going to be growing any of mine inside my warm home, I better keep those trees exposed at temps above 50 degrees at all times outside or I am going to loose many leave if not all..That is why many bring them in at night when temps fall below 50 and out by day a few weeks before they come inside..They are use to warm temps that way and experience less shock once inside. In fact, the stress sustained from warmer inside temps is much more stressful on my trees than the sunlight. I can guarantee you that if my trees that are use to the colder temps on the porch on my 3 seasons porch were all of a sudden exposed to very warm temps for a couple of days by day and night, I would loose just about every leaf on all of them. Less direct sunlight and very warm temps, I mean what people are use to heating their homes with, usually above 65 to 70 night and day combined with dry air. Regarding acclimation to temps..I have been growing citrus up here for years, and I know that if trees are left outside to be exposed for long periods of cold weather, they will drop leaves when all of sudden exposed to warm dry temps, and then compound on that less light...Many seem to think only the sunlight matters, but then many don't experience what we do here up north..Sticking our trees inside warm dry homes is another stress related issue when they have been use to cold temps...)) Personally, it took me 'years' to finally control leaf loss and pest issues..I never have drastic leaf loss or pest issues unless I was to blame.....You can be in control) Have a beautiful day..I'l bet once you water properly, the tree gets use to dry indoor temps and the lack of sunlight it will be just fine)))) Good job for catching this problem from the start! May I suggest that many Bookmark this thread since it is a common problem and questions with most northern growers ?

glib said, "Organic matter mitigates all that, I would mulch and spray, and wait for the mulch to trickle down." I used to think that, too, until I read more. The microbes cannot thrive in a toxic environment. If the soil chemistry is toxic to the microbes due to an imbalance of salts, for example, simple balancing the salt structure can bring the soil back to life. The microbes might be able to do that over the next 50 years, or you can do that in the next 20 minutes once you know what chemicals are needed. Where is the result for sodium in the soil? Here in Texas about 20 years ago the state was looking for someone able to reclaim plots of land ruined by brine water used in oil drilling. Most of the companies resorted to replacing the soil, but one company used a holistic (for lack of a better word) approach. They did the soil test, determined what the contaminants were, and put together a salt balance regimen followed by a few tons of compost. The process worked so well that plants grew up much taller than the surrounding area.