2. Absoulutly not, the lite2 is a much more simplistic heater in design, and far more reliable than the LX. I have had 4 bad experiences with the LX and 0 good experiences.

3. You can typically tap off a pump for the heater, and the internal time clock will run the pump just fine. You will however need to add a relay into the heater for it to turn off and on a pump.

3. I like the Raypak product for many installations, It has a reliable spark ignition, and very well constructed. The one downside is that you will need and external time clock to run it.

LJ is not legal in CA so we have the LX or the new LXi. The LX is a beast but the LXi is a winner in my mind. It is far more advanced than anything out there.

Having said that, the RayPak is perhaps the best buy. Very few repairs on the Lo NOx versions. No hot surface igniter issues. The digital board is a bit suspect when it sits in a really sunny location (even with the smoked door) and the cost to replace it is horrendous.

You did not mention the gas line costs being an issue. Do you already have that?

Laars Lite in our area is a bad word. The original LG versions were notorious parts hogs eating up t-stats, ignition controls and igniters almost annually. The insulation on the solid state thermostat can was terrible.

If you can get it, the Rheem (Raypak) Lo Nox is an awesome product. Want a heater that will last a loooooong time? Get thew ASME version.

Thanks to both of you. Yes- the model I was looking at based upon his reccomendation was the "LJ." I meant to mention the "LXI" in my original post and would certainly consider that. It says it has a much smaller footprint, which could be useful as I might be able to fit it on my current equip. pad with a little reconfiguration.

repair guy - gas lines are an issue. Dont get me started on the difficult property we have. Basically, the house, the pool and the equip. pad are all on different levels b/c of sloping property. The pool is terraced with high retaining walls surrounding so electrical runs, etc. would need to go around. Also, since the equip. pad is so far from the road, the propane co. said they couldnt refill a tank located down in the equip. area. Rather, the tank needs to be located up on the side of the house and then a 70 foot trench to run the gas line down to the heater. So far, best price to dig the trench is $750.00. Propone Co. would charge me approx. $900.00 for parts and labor to run the copper piping, etc. However, the electical run would be several hundred feet to trench (I havent measured exactly), then electrician's cost and then heat pump cost. I am sure I would make up the difference down the road in energy cost savings... but its a lot to swallow now in one shot.

I will look at the Rheem(Raypak) Lo Nox as you mentioned.

Just make sure your tank line is two staged at that run. you can run a smaller line and cut costs. I'm sure they know that.

Thanks. I'm sure they know it, but since I like to learn from all my struggles, can you please tell me what that means.

Basically, the propane tank line to the pool pad is high pressure and regulated at the heater as opposed to at the tank.

I'd look away from lo nox if it's not required. It's more expensive and complex. Typically the only ones who buy it are the ones that have to.

I would feel reasonably certain that the propane company would run higher pressure to the appliance and then regulate it down. All of them in my area do it in this manner, even when they're close runs too.
I also agree with Racket, only purchase a Lo Nox heater if it's required in your state.

See ya,
Kelly

Thanks again everyone. Unfortunately now I sense a bit of a split on the heater choice. I was prepared to pay for the Laars LXi and the smaller footprint and more flexible hookup options (left or right side) was a nice thing for my retrofit. I guess the Lxi qualifies as low Nox, so from what I read huskyridor and racket would not be in favor unless required. That being said, I ask you both as to your heater "top picks" By the way, I am assuming lo Nox is not required where I live in Westchester County, NY as my "pool guy" didnt mention such requirement.

Perhaps I will try a separate post to get a larger range of opinions on the Lxi.

Thanks- As always.

I hated the LX, so you couldnt pay me enough to put in an LXI.

With that beign said, if you want a small footprint look into the Pentair Master temp. If you Want rock solid, and simple design, look into a Raypak.

You can't go wrong with the MasterTemp or Raypak. Both heaters of choice for me. I have been trained on the LXi and believe me, it is beautiful from a technician standpoint. It has no service record though as it was only introduced in November. Keep in mind, Jandy (Teledyne Laars) has the roots in being a heater company. They retain a lot of those people. Raypak only makes one thing. Heaters. That carries a lot of weight too. The MasterTemp is a proven StaRite Max E Therm in a box. It is the toughest to work on as it is pretty complex and in a tight package. It is the most efficient of the heaters out there at 84% minus the HiE2. If you want small the Pentair is the way to go. It's a bit cheesy on some parts (electric connection, doors, plastic molding, but it's whats inside that matters and it rocks there.

Racket,

I thought I saw somewhere you questioned the post purge on a low NOx

If you have automation, the heater cool down allows for that, if on a clock, you need to wire to the line side. It's only about 40 seconds.

We're stuck with the low NOx and have been forever so it seems funny to even hear about an LJ or a millivolt.

Just curious on one thing? You mentioned the cost difference "up front" for a heat pump. Have you thought about the long term savings of having the heat pump versus a gas heater (ecspecially propane). I know personally I have a program that will provide you a comparison of savings (Im not trying to sell you on a heat pump). I know where I am (Michigan) the avg savings 6 month season, 30k gallon pool is roughly 2500 (assuming all variables are the same). Maybe look into a quote for the electrical, 50 amp breaker, 6 gage and which ever codes must be followed. This way you can see apples to apples.

Thanks. mykal2222000 - are you saying that in one pool season you calculate a $2,500 savings with the heat pump versus propane !! That would certainly give me pause for thought. What is the program you have that can do the calculation and can you share it ? I have another guy coming this weekend to give me a price for the 70 foot trench (assuming propane) and will ask him for a number to trench the electrical for the heat pump.

"Racket,

I thought I saw somewhere you questioned the post purge on a low NOx"

Me too, but I can't find it anymore. Maybe I misread the original post, but I think that we are both on the same page.

I'll just recap.

All Modern heaters with a combustion fan must be wired to a constant power source. All switching should be done on the low voltage side.

One of the main reasons for this is that there is no atmospheric draft to remove the flue gases from the firebox.

Again, I am sure we can both agree to that, and you more than likely had said that in the post the disappeared .