Hi lg, Not that would I would trust. I imagine the pipe above and below are running along with the middle line. If not, the job is even easier. Cut and reroute the top line just for the length that is at the Tee. Then cut out the tee and replace using slip couplings or compression coupling or even a compression Tee. You will probably have to dig back the hole to get some flex in the lines. Good idea not to have any dead end lines where stagnant water can harbor bacteria that may break loose later and spray all over your lawn just before that big party. Get rid of any unused branching line lengths. Another alternative would be to hammer a rubber or wood stopper in with alot of epoxy glue and then duck tape the hell out of it. Should work for a couple of years at least. JMHO Aloha

For what I am about to type, I ask that you make a donation to the Epilepsy Foundation. First, there are specific kits available for repairing this failure. Its not as uncommon as some may think because with spark plugs that can last as long as they do, and ignition systems that actually simply keep firing the cylinder even when the electrodes of the plug have eroded away, we see seized plugs quite often. In the kit there will be instructions as to what sized drill bit will be required, more expensive kits will include the drill bit, and tap. Make sure to select a "tapered insert" that matches the thread length of the spark plug exactly. Too short of one will allow the plug to overheat, and the cylinder will detonate and melt the piston. Too long, and well you'll know right away.. VBG... DO NOT use a standard helicoil, they are not designed for such a repair, and will allow compression leakage around the threads. they also could not cover the plug threads correctly, and again result in the plug not being cooled correctly. Here is the part of this that is worth $$$$. Now go get the shop vac, and connect the hose to is as you would use it as a leaf blower. Connect the shop vac to the tail-pipe, and turn the engine over by hand to open the exhaust valve just enough that the shop vac blows out of the engine through the cylinder you are going to work on. Of course protect your eyes, the rest of your body and any part of the engine were machining chips will be an issue, because as you work, the metal chips will be blown out all over the place. Now follow the instructions as to how to drill out the old plug, thread the hole, and install the insert and stake it. If you want to roll the engine over to try and ensure no chips went in after you have cut the new threads, prior to installing the insert, there is no reason you cannot do that. Disconnect the ignition module so that you dont have spark while you do. An "Easy Out" is exactly what its name implies, it will remove a broken bolt that will come out easily. Otherwise you risk breaking a very hard, brittle tool off in the "bolt hole", which of course is the spark plug hole this time. Typically for an easy out to grab, it has to wedge into the bolt being removed, by the time it would likely grab a broken spark plug, it actually expands it and makes it tighter. I've seen people attempt to heat and cool the broken plug, and there has been reports of success when this is done. I've seen people saw through the sides of the plug and remove it in pieces. Trust me, that takes a LOT of effort, and then you still end up resizing the hole and installing an insert. Here is a link that might be useful: One such thread repair system. There are others too.

"Any ideas on what I should do?" Sewer gas isn't something you want in your house. Let me say the obvious... perhaps you should invest in someone giving it the once-over and replacing it if needed. It sound like it may have been a "creative" installation at the time it was done. 50 years isn't that old for cast iron... but it is for a can of tuna. BTW: Another tip from Mr. Obvious... Don't eat the Tuna!

I would force some JB Weld in the crack, wait a day, and install the wax ring and toilet - see how that works.