The space between our windows is 9'. We have a king bed with 16" between the nightstand and the bed. We have to reach quite a bit. I think 12" would be better. Are your end tables the same size as the window? Our nightstand is narrower than the window. If your nightstand is smaller than the window, then you would have more room between your bed and nightstand than 12". I think the nightstand should be centered under the window.

My cousin is very good with caulk and a syringe - he caulked the other places where he had to cut the drywall to put the trim up. But those were light-colored (Navajo White and Thornton Sage) walls, we didn't bother to paint after caulking. I'm afraid the Antique Jade walls would have to be repainted after white caulk was applied, it might look worse than just leaving them with the slight gap/shadow? As I said, it's only the top 9" (and hopefully the TV will distract the eye). Panels are 42" wide, so the top won't have any pleats, will be straight since the single windows are 41" wide casing to casing (and 41.75" from edge of casing to end of stool on the other side). I'm wondering if I can even use a single panel on each (maybe add fringe on the inside edge to widen it just a little?). I only have 6 panels for the 3 windows - and these are discontinued. I had planned on 2 panels per window, plus valance, but that was before I discovered this forum! Maybe I can find a seamstress to cut 2 panels in half lengthwise and sew them to the other 4 panels to make each panel 63" wide instead of 42"? The panels will always be swagged back, I don't need them to actually cover the windows since I have the Romans there for shade/glare. Even if I didn't swag (put 2 panels on each window as originally planned) and didn't use the valances, I would just hang them from the clips in a stationary position. But I don't think I can use a panel on each side of the single windows with the TV there - I only have 7.5" between the TV and the window casing on each side, and I don't want the panel right up against the side of the TV. Maybe split the difference and have the panels hang 3.25" from each side of the TV (which would put the finial tips almost directly above the edge of the TV, about 28" above)? The valances are 55" wide, so if I just put the valances on the decorative rods and then put another rod under for the panels I think I might be able to "fudge" a single swagged panel on each single window and the valance would cover the casing on the TV side? Don't pay any attention to the size of the rod in the picture, this is the 48-86" rod I had open (to check against the 82" window) - the 28-48" rod is over the kitchen window but can be switched out so I have the same rods on both LR single windows. So I *could* fudge it to have one panel cover the rod b/t finials, as I said that would barely cover the trim though. In fact, straight out of the package (not pressed) this looks a little narrower than 42". Here's the table I was thinking of to put DVD player on (baskets with DVDs underneath), it's a little tall (32" compared to 28" desk there now, 28" window stool) so TV will have to go a few inches higher to fit DVD player under it if we put it on top of table and mount TV on the wall. The TV would be a good height sitting on the table, but then the DVD player would be way down by the floor and I couldn't fit my 3 baskets of DVDs. It's also 55" wide so will be touching the casing on either side (hoepfully will clear the stools) if we put it all the way against the wall, but we could pull it out an inch if it slightly overlaps. Is that too big? Of course, then we *really* don't have room for panels b/t the TV and the windows b/c they'll be behind the console table. http://s7d4.scene7.com/is/image/ASF/690864_S?$lg$ This matches our end tables, I'm not using the coffee table so thought I'd put DVD player on that and mount TV a foot higher, but the coffee table is 28" deep and that seems too deep to keep forever. We'd have to wait until April and drive down to DC/Williamsburg for vacation, bring the sofa table back with us since American Signature doesn't have stores in our area. I wish I could just cut the back 10" off the coffee table and put the back legs back on, but it's mortise and tenon. Maybe cut it and just support the back with a cleat on the wall, only have front legs? I think I need PS help - super squirrel, where are you LOL?

Purrus, we had a very similar problem in the kitchen of a house we recently built. Long story short, some cabs needed to be removed and rebuilt to achieve symmetry. Based on GW advice, we did what sailorgirl did, except the narrow cabinet that filled up the "extra" space on the wider side of the range was made into a tall pull out pantry rather than just a narrow cabinet that was otherwise identical to the rest. I know a tall pull-out won't work for you, but just a thought, maybe consider making the narrow cab otherwise decorative or distinct...maybe with a glass-fronted door, or even making it open shelving. It just helps set it apart design-wise from the other doors on both sides of the range which will now be identical in size, it's a chance to have an accent cabinet.