Those w/contacts..success w/monovision
14 years ago
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- 14 years ago
- 14 years ago
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Neem for Gnats?
Comments (29)I've been experimenting with container media and media components for 30+ years, and have found that the more often plants actually NEED water, the better will be their opportunity to realize a greater measure of their genetic potential, even if taken to the extreme. I don't use any mediums that will carry plants longer than a week between waterings when the planting's water demands are minimal. The reason is, it doesn't take long for soil saturation to kill the fine roots that do most of the plant's heavy lifting. The median height of the perched water column in most off the shelf potting media is 3-5, and 6 or 7 " perched water columns are not unusual. This means, when the soil is holding as much water as it can after a thorough watering, the bottom 3-5" of soil will be completely saturated. After 1-2 days of inundation at normal indoor temps, fine roots in the soggy/airless lower layer of soil are dying. This causes the plant's chemical messengers to signal plant central to stop all top growth, or in severe cases, to shed a fraction of existing growth until root zone conditions improve to the degree regeneration of the lost roots can occur, which is required before top growth can resume. By the time enough water has been used by the plant and/or evaporated to allow normal root growth to resume, most growers will have already watered again and started the cycle all over again. From the perspective of energy outlay, this cyclic death and regeneration of fine roots is extremely costly, and can actually cost the plant more than 100% of its potential, if you consider the shedding of parts that often goes hand in hand with poor root function. Actual growth is not a function of how much a branch or stem extends, or how many new leaves grow. Growth is a measure of the increase in a plant's dry weight, so shedding parts is a step backward. I have about 100 tropical trees I grow indoors (basement) under lights, all grouped together on 2 - 4x8 self-draining tables, and gnats have never been an issue. Gnats love moist conditions with rotting vegetation in the offing. Some soils are comprised of lightly composted products, which are still rich in cellulose. They breakdown quickly, often hold water in excess, and often support significant populations of fungus gnats. Sometimes getting watering under control by using a "tell" can be helpful. Using a 'tell' Over-watering saps vitality and is one of the most common plant assassins, so learning to avoid it is worth the small effort. Plants make and store their own energy source – photosynthate - (sugar/glucose). Functioning roots need energy to drive their metabolic processes, and in order to get it, they use oxygen to burn (oxidize) their food. From this, we can see that terrestrial plants need air (oxygen) in the soil to drive root function. Many off-the-shelf soils hold too much water and not enough air to support good root health, which is a prerequisite to a healthy plant. Watering in small sips leads to a build-up of dissolved solids (salts) in the soil, which limits a plant's ability to absorb water – so watering in sips simply moves us to the other horn of a dilemma. It creates another problem that requires resolution. Better, would be to simply adopt a soil that drains well enough to allow watering to beyond the saturation point, so we're flushing the soil of accumulating dissolved solids whenever we water; this, w/o the plant being forced to pay a tax in the form of reduced vitality, due to prolong periods of soil saturation. Sometimes, though, that's not a course we can immediately steer, which makes controlling how often we water a very important factor. In many cases, we can judge whether or not a planting needs watering by hefting the pot. This is especially true if the pot is made from light material, like plastic, but doesn't work (as) well when the pot is made from heavier material, like clay, or when the size/weight of the pot precludes grabbing it with one hand to judge its weight and gauge the need for water. Fingers stuck an inch or two into the soil work ok for shallow pots, but not for deep pots. Deep pots might have 3 or more inches of soil that feels totally dry, while the lower several inches of the soil is 100% saturated. Obviously, the lack of oxygen in the root zone situation can wreak havoc with root health and cause the loss of a very notable measure of your plant's potential. Inexpensive watering meters don't even measure moisture levels, they measure electrical conductivity. Clean the tip and insert it into a cup of distilled water and witness the fact it reads 'DRY'. One of the most reliable methods of checking a planting's need for water is using a 'tell'. You can use a bamboo skewer in a pinch, but a wooden dowel rod of about 5/16” (75-85mm) would work better. They usually come 48” (120cm) long and can usually be cut in half and serve as a pair. Sharpen all 4 ends in a pencil sharpener and slightly blunt the tip so it's about the diameter of the head on a straight pin. Push the wooden tell deep into the soil. Don't worry, it won't harm the root system. If the plant is quite root-bound, you might need to try several places until you find one where you can push it all the way to the pot's bottom. Leave it a few seconds, then withdraw it and inspect the tip for moisture. For most plantings, withhold water until the tell comes out dry or nearly so. If you see signs of wilting, adjust the interval between waterings so drought stress isn't a recurring issue. Al...See MoreNew to contacts, much harder than thought.
Comments (35)UPDATE: Went to practice session #3 at the eye doctor and was able to get contacts in and out of both eyes. The left eye was harder. The way I got them in was to NOT look in a mirror, pull down just the lower lid, and stare straight ahead. Another optician joined in to help. She saw my nails which were as short as they can be. She said I need to pull the contact down with the pad of my middle finger and then try to pinch the contact off my lower lid. They were out of the lenses with my prescription so they sent me home with just practice lenses until a trial set come in. I need to practice everyday putting the contacts in and out. I am so relieved to have gotten this far! I'm actually glad to just have the practice lenses for a while. I forgot to ask about the mono or multifocal. Thank you all for the help. I did make a word document with all the advice. I may need to refer to it sometimes if I run into trouble. edited to add: I ask about those plunger things to put in contacts. Those are only for hard contacts which I will not be getting. This post was edited by debrak2008 on Tue, Jun 10, 14 at 7:20...See MoreAnyone using Restasis for dry eye syndrome?
Comments (124)Has anyone tried Hyaluronic eye drops for dry eye syndrome? Seems as if it might help. WebM.D. "Hyaluronic acid is a substance that is naturally present in the human body. It is found in the highest concentrations in fluids in the eyes and joints. The hyaluronic acid that is used as medicine is extracted from rooster combs or made by bacteria in the laboratory. People take hyaluronic acid for various joint disorders, including osteoarthritis. It can be taken by mouth or injected into the affected joint by a healthcare professional. The FDA has approved the use of hyaluronic acid during certain eye surgeries including cataract removal, corneal transplantation, and repair of a detached retina and other eye injuries. It is injected into the eye during the procedure to help replace natural fluids." A link that might be useful: www.webmd.com/vitamins-supplements/ingredientmono-1062-HYALURONIC%20ACID.aspx?activeIngredientId=1062&activeIngredientName=HYALURONIC%20ACID...See MoreTransition lenses in glasses...
Comments (30)I didn't like my transitions, either. They are a few years old, tho. I don't know what the new ones are like. I am very light sensitive and wear sun glasses most of the time in the car. Sometimes the more overcast days are worse than bright sunshine for me. If you get glasses, and want sunglasses also to help block the light from the sides, get a pair of frames that are sturdy enough that putting the fit overs won't knock them out of adjustment. I got the really light weight ones that don't have any "frame" to them, just the ear pieces and nose piece. They are wonderfully light, but I can't keep them adjusted. I went Wed. and need to have them fixed again. The fit overs can come around the sides to help block the light, where transitions (if they work in the car, mine didn't) will only block the light where the lenses are. When I wore contacts ( I gave them up for the same reason you are!), I always wore very dark sunglasses that wrapped around. I got Rx sunglasses that were supposed to be able to be adjusted to work the same way, but it changes the bifocal to much so they adjusted them to take out the wrap for me, which makes them too wide for my face now. I do love my no line bifocals, tho. Good luck. My insurance only pays the exam and $75 towards the rest, so I spent a fortune on glasses last year. I will probably do it again this summer just to get out of the frames I have now. Tami...See More- 14 years ago
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