"Miele W1, Miele Little Giants or Miele Professional will all provide proper heating of the water to the temp selected. No need to set house common water heater to an unsafe temperature." Miele has temp options Cold tap, 85, 105, 120, 140, and sanitary 170. Very customizable, and heater wastes no time going to work. Most machines you have no idea what the temps are at all period. If a huge drum which most do not even utilize is not important to you, Miele is the bomb. It will hold as much as a full size top loader.

Some clothes washers do require the elevated location of the top of the discharge hose. Lowering it to floor level typically drains the machine and the pump-- very useful when preparing to store the machine in an unheated area. While HUD code did/does (?) provide for 1 1/2" washer drain line, regular plumbing codes have for many years required 2" for washers. Dumping into the shower pan may not let the water flow out of the pan as fast as the washer discharges it. I too have had to live with temporary arrangements while occupying rental housing. We used the kitchen sink. for the washer drain.

Based upon the general layout of this line it appears that your jurisdiction is primarily under the International Residential Code. The height of the standpipe is fine. By necessity there is always a horizontal section of pipe between the vent and the trap. Under the IRC the minimum lenght of that horizontal section is 2x the pipe diameter and the maximum length is determined by dividing the pipe diameter by the required pitch. All pipes 3" or under are required to have a 1/2" per foot pitch so if this is a 2" line the maximum developed length of horizontal pipe from the vent to the trap may not exceed 2 / .25 = 8'. The horizonatal section of pipe connected to the stack is running parallel to a concrete block wall. A standard concrete block is 16" long and the pipe appears to be equal to the lenght of 4 blocks so I am estimating the length at 4 x 16" = 64" plus another 12" for the offset to the riser. I am assuming the top of the riser is directly behind the quarter bend protruding from the wall at the standpipe location. Allowing an additional 4" for each 1/4 bend we get 64"+12+4"+4" = 84". 84" /12" per foot = 7' so the length of the run is within the allowable 8' however there are two serious problems with this installation. 1. The stack to which the standpipe line is connected is black pipe plastic pipe. We would need to see the writing on that pipe to be sure because they did at one time make black PVC pipe but normally black DWV(Drain, Waste & Vent) pipe is ABS plastic and code prohibits directly gluing dissimilar pipe. (ABS to PVC or vice versa). While that would be considered a code violation, in this case it would have no effect on the problem at hand so for the moment lets disregard that problem. 2. The second problem is that there is a toilet discharging into the stack at some point above where this connection is made. This means the vertical stack is a wet vent and code prohibits connecting a fixture drain to a wet vent downstream of a toilet. There is an easy solution: The IRC will permit an unlimited use of Air Admitance Valves (commonly called Studor Vents). On the horizontal pipe in the basement cut the pipe on the offset or near the offset end of the horizontal from the stack. Install a Wye & 1/8 bend or a COMBO with the side opening point upward. Stub a short riser vertical about 12" and put an 1-1/2" female thread adapter on the top, then screw an AAV into the thread adapter. This would then make the connection legal because the pipe from the trap to the AAV location would be considered the fixture drain but the line downstream of the AAV to the stack is now a vented branch line, which is legal to connect to the stack. Not only would this make the installation legal but it would also provide the additional venting required to resolve your problem.

Get you some Tide Washing Machine Cleaner or either Affresh Washing Machine Cleaner and clean out your washer. When you finish using the machine be sure you leave the door open so the inside can dry out between uses. Put your head in the tub(washer) and see if you smell anything. You know that front load washers are notorious for mold/mildew/stink. Are you using liquid detergent? Powder HE detergent is best for front loaders..Also pull the gasket back around the door so you can look under it and see if you have mold and scum there.