Tongue and groove over a waterproof plywood underlayment
thundata
13 years ago
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john_hyatt
13 years agoaidan_m
13 years agoRelated Discussions
2cm granite underlayment: Extira waterproof MDF or plywood
Comments (7)antss: I need an underlayment because I was naive enough to absolutely love and buy a granite I saw in Texas and pay to have it shipped to Virginia not knowing that granite comes in various thicknesses. I did not know that I might as well have brought in something from outer space, no one and I mean no one here knows how to do an underlayment for 2cm granite. azstoneconsulting, I know you think I am the densest person alive. I thank you for all your patience. This is supposedly a new type of waterproof MDF called Extira which is used in the outdoors. Please let me know what you think of this Extira....See MoreTongue and Groove Bamboo over plywood
Comments (2)some kind of padding will be wanted, 100%, unless the bamboo itself as padding built in on the bottom of the planks. You can glue together the tongue n grooves making it floating, thats not a problem. but with any floating floor ensuring the subfloor is flat and with adequate padding is a must. as far as the money issue, thats is his option to charge more, its not a lot more time to glue, but i guess its also another expense....See MoreAdvice on original tongue and groove floor / subfloor. PLEASE
Comments (7)I'll say this. I don't really know the answer to your question. But I live in a house that is way, way, older than yours that we are renovating. A lot of our floors have always been (and a few currently not re done yet still are) single boards, not double layer like you seem to have. One room we have is not even tongue and groove so you can see through the gaps (makes sweeping an issue for sure), but they have been there and used for at least two hundred years (in the addition) and no one has fallen through. We are planning on pulling it up eventually and laying multi-layers with sound proofing, when we get to that part of the house. But I am not fearful of safety there. Sound, dirt,( you may want to check for gaps for rodents or insects with it being a basement ),spilling something on the floor (liquids are never allowed in that room ever in my kids hands for fear I would cleaning everything downstairs). Good luck. Also, you may also want to pop in at the Old House forum. You will definitely find a lot of make it work and save what you can type people....See MoreWaterproof underlayment for LVP over concrete basement floor
Comments (7)If you are concerned about the possibility of mold/mildew, then the most effective thing to do is fix the concrete so that it doesn't have a problem. You could spend $2-$4/sf on materials (such as DriCore) only to have a damp slab underneath. Which means the potential for mold is STILL THERE. Or you can fix the problem at its source: seal the entire slab properly. That means shot blasting, etc. Which isn't much more money per square foot than the $4/sf for the EXPENSIVE DriCore. And if you read DriCore's website, they will require a 6mil vapour barrier UNDERNEATH their panels if the hydrostatic pressure is higher than 'x' lbs/1000sf. That's for the 'regular' DriCore. To get away from this requirement you have to use the HIGH PRICED foam panels. And then you have to purchase OSB/Plywood to go over top of the foam panels....etc. Industry Standard means just that. The industry (flooring) recognises that slabs almost always contain moisture. The control of that moisture is up to the homeowner...but the flooring professional can take steps to ensure the product THEY are installing will have the best chance of being successful in that space. That means stopping moisture from 'hitting' or reaching the floor above. What happens underneath the vapour barrier is up to the homeowner to deal with...because the homeowner is ultimately responsible for his/her cement slab. The professional has done his/her job by using the industry's regularly used product such as 6mil poly sheeting. Again, if mold/mildew are your concern (and it should be) then the 'fix' is not going to be some panels sitting 1/2" higher than the concrete. The fix is going to be the professional sealing of the slab. Shot blasting is a b!tch! The epoxy sealants are a b!tch to work with. The primer is noxious and the microtopping is a nightmare. Which is why it is best to leave the sealing of slabs to the professionals....See Morejohn_hyatt
13 years agosierraeast
13 years agojohn_hyatt
13 years agosierraeast
13 years agothundata
13 years agojohn_hyatt
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5 years agoHU-276578444
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thundataOriginal Author