The drain unscrews from the assembly below the tub. Normally the drain and overflow are all one assembly. If you have access to the back/underside of the tub it's a lot easier, because you can control both the drain basket from the top and the nut that captures the threads on the basket from below. However, you can try to replace the basket just using access from above. Easiest way is with a tool called a "basket wrench": An inexpensive basket wrench costs maybe $5 to $10 at a hardware store. You can see how this would lock on to the cross pieces in the basket and allow you to rotate the basket counterclockwise to unthread it. Or you can use the standard DIY method which is to insert two sturdy screwdrivers into the basket, one at the 9 o'clock position and one in the 3 o'clock position, and cross the screwdrivers and use that leverage to rotate the basket. Once the basket is removed, clean the tub surface and install a new basket using a bead of plumbers putty. I will say that the proper way, and the best way, is to have access from below. It's best to set the basket into the putty and then secure it by rotating the nut from below instead of rotating the basket from above.

For a jetted tub used as a shower, it has to have an integral tile flange. That allows the wall cladding to overhang and any water that hits the wall to not go behind your walls. There aren't that many in that size that are inexpensive. It will need a specialized drain, and, if you want to spend any time in the tub, a supplemental heater so the water doesn't cool off so fast. Since it's a tub/shower, the wall cladding will need to be redone to be waterproof into the tub. It's possible, if the build is recent, and it was done with the proper vapor barrier behind it, that only one row of the tile would need to be pulled in order to replace the tub. But, I wouldn't count on that. I'd count on having to replace all of the wall cladding in the alcove. That can be as cheap as a plastic surround for around $100 or cheap tile with the proper vapor barrier for probably $150 or so. The first is the easiest and the least chance of leaking. The second will read as more upscale, but you have to be sure your contractor understands about the vapor barrier and correct materials to use to tile this (NOT mastic.) And since you have that torn out, it would be foolish to try to keep your current control valves for the bath unless they are also very new. New safety standards are in place for anti scald mechanisms. So, you will need a new shower/bath faucet and valve. Then you will need the electrical line run from the panel to the location for the whirlpool pump and supplemental heater. That location is usually opposite the drain side of the tub. You will need to be able to site an access panel that is removable to be able to get to the electrical innards here. That can be from an adjacent room, or from a hidden panel on the tub itself. All in all, you might be able to get all of the needed materials for 2-3K if you shop the box stores carefully and find some bargains. The danger to that is that if you are inexperienced, you don't know if you're buying quality or crap. They sell both. And that's one reason that it would be simpler to let the pro pick the products after you tell him the features that you want. Then you've got to pay the contractor labor to install all of that. The electrician's price will depend on how difficult it will be to access the panel and run the wire to the location. For that, it's a really good thing you are on a crawlspace! That makes it cheaper for both the electrician and the plumber. On the whole, I'd expect your project to cost between 5-7K, depending on location, and if you have no DIY skills to bring to the table and have to hire professionals for the whole job. And be sure that you hire someone that is licensed and insured to be in your home, and will pull the proper permits to get the job inspected with your code office. Some handyman guy isn't licensed to do electrical of that nature, and while he might be able to do the demo and get the tub in place and glue on the plastic surround, it's unlikely that he'll have the right insurance to deal with a large job like that, and thus probably wont' want to pull permits and be inspected. They are usually limited to smaller jobs like simple fixture replacements like a faucet or light. Which this isn't. Just remember, you are doing a project that combines electricity and water. You really have to know what you're doing here! A small General Contractor should be able to do the complete job, and also carry the needed papers. And he should have no problem with the code guys coming in to inspect his work either. If he does, then he's not the right person for the job.

I have a large 2 person jacuzzi 6 foot tub. It is the bellavista. It has 8 jets and an in-line heater. The heater is a must as the water stays nice and hot. I love the big tub and am planning on getting a maax kashmir freestanding tub for my new home. It has air & jets. The new tubs have the drains for the jets at an angle so they drain better. That was the problem with most of the bacteria build up. My tub is about 5 years old. I also have an outdoor hot tub that I can't live without. I have chronic pain and they both do wonders for my health. I highly recommend them both. I know that the big tubs take up a lot of room in a bathroom, but it all comes down to want you want. It is a choice that I have been very happy with.

This reaffirms once again that plumbers chase cars and lick themselves in public. IMO,the guy is liable for ruining your tub. If you want to hear more on that,say so. A self respecting professional would have used a sump pump to remove the mess created in the standing water. It would be realy presumptuous to say I know how to fix it when I havn't seen the place but anyone calling themself a plumber should after examining the home. To answer your question "is there really a "TRAP" that clogs up?????",yes it's common and usually requires only a plunger to clear. If you decide to remove your neighbor's ceiling you might try this first. Ask at the hardware store for a device that is attached to a garden hose and forced as far as possible into clogged pipe where it swells and pressurizes when water is turned on to hose. Remove the plate from end of tub between drain and facuets to expose the pipe for insertion. There is some risk of pressure disjointing a pipe and wetting downstairs ceiling but you were going to replace it anyhow. There is far better odds the pipe will be cleared without incident and you save yourself lots of ceiling repair. Kousea,before you try this,instead of pushing hose blaster into pipe,stuff a wet cloth into it then plunge the drain opening in bottom of tub.