If it is not staying tight, pretwist is your friend. And you might be using the wrong size nut. I disagree with ron on the pretwisting (again everyone has their own opinion on this). I have taken off various nuts not pretwisted and the wires are completely loose, or they arced so much that they were welded together and I couldn't get the nut off. When I take off a nut on my pretwisted connections they are still together tight. So the claim that pretwisting does little in the long run is wrong. I have read an entire thread on a different forum of people going back and forth on this so whatever works for you. I personally have had to redo a lot of junction boxes with loose connections done by someone else and have never had a problem with my connections. The connections of mine that I have undone were for later modifications and they were just as tight as ever after taking the nut off. One of the valid arguments against pretwisting is that when that is all you do all day it is extra wear on your wrist, which I agree with. If the nut alone could twist the wire and get it tight and keep it tight then I wouldn't pretwist, but I have not experienced that in the limited electrical work I have done.

Hello everyone! I am new to the forum, but after some recent issues was thinking some experienced folks may be able to help guide me. Appreciate any help you can provide My Pool: Please see the attached image of my pool - I marked the inlets that blow out water with red arrows (located left middle of pool and shallow end just right of middle), and the skimmer is the blue square circle (directly across from the deep end inlet), and lastly there is a suction outlet (no idea what it is) same side as the skimmer closer to the shallow end (attached image of this, or can find an example here: Amazon.com: Aquastar 4HP101 Suction Outlet Cover with Screw, 4-Inch, White: Garden & Outdoor). Also attached, is an image of what my inlets blowing water look like, both from Leslies. My Questions: How should I be positioning my two inlets that pump out the water so they circulate to the filter? Attached is an image of my pool (described below w/other information). I tried pointing the shallow end towards the 2nd somewhat in deep end one and then that one towards deep end to circulate around (no luck), tried pointing other way, tried pointing them down both directions (no luck - more on what happens below). Would it be recommended to install another inlet in the pool, is that a pricey install? Is 2 enough with the skimmer & catcher and suction inlet? **** at this point I am even thinking of getting one of those boat things that skims around the pool for me... Are there better inlets recommended, possibly ones with more angle? Mine right now dont really angle much - but i saw better options online that can do 90' angles etc... Welcome any recommendations. What does the 2nd attached photo for the suction in the pool do (round looking plastic cover)? Sometimes a leaf will get stuck to it, but I honestly have no idea what it does or how effective it really is... I have a spring loaded skimmer catcher (picture attached) - which side of the skimmer should it be on? Should it be perfect line from the skimmer or angled a bit (sometimes things just bounce around it if too angled and avoid the skimmer) - previously I had it closer to short end of pool (right side of skimmer) when the water would circulate properly around clockwise, but now thats not working so... Background/How Happened: So, I have lived in this house for 4 years with our 35 foot pool (think 35K size water, but not sure). Recently one of my water inlets little inside ball that directs the water poped out so i had to replace after it kept doing so when put back in (main piece was cracked). Having done so, I am now having a hard time getting the water to circulate so things reach the skimmer. Tried angling the inlets but no luck after several attempts - I also did some research and saw that I have likely been doing this all wrong with how the inlets are used (I used to point them relatively high and angled), thinking they were just needed for moving the water towards the skimmer. Reading up, seems they should be pointed down to the bottom of the pool... My Issues: 1. The water is no longer circulating fully, tried this while changing the inlet angles quite a few times with my floating duck thermometer and a leaf - they keep making it to the deep end and instead of continuing right into the skimmer they just get stuck in the deep end. 2. Now the pool is getting dirtier and dirtier and i have to fish leaves out daily :/ If anyone can help, I would be soo soooo very grateful for your assistance, this is driving me mad! Thanks, Stephen

We could go on forever on manufacturers and their products, almost all of which I haven't owned and won't, as a result, recommend. What is needed before investigating hood system parts is defining what they need to be. So lets suppose that you have a 36-inch range and a reasonable 42-inch hood over it, set between 30 and 36 inches above it. Assume that the actual capture aperture is 3.5 ft. x 2 ft. (In a wall configuration this might be effectively larger, but that doesn't apply to this bit of analysis, which actually deals with presumed ratios between baffle gap areas and capture area, and is highly approximate and influenced by plume velocities.) It is desirable for residential baffle hoods such as Wolf makes that the intake air flow velocity be somewhere in the ball park of 90 ft/min. With an aperture of 7 sq. ft. (see above) you would want an actual flow volume rate of 630 CFM. Depending on your make-up air system, which somewhat depends on your combustion appliances, if any, you will need a blower with a zero static pressure rating higher than 630 CFM by a factor determined by MUA achieved house pressure match to outside, and by pressure loss in the baffles, which varies with flow rate. Your short duct pressure loss will be minimal. So, consider the Broan-NuTone 900 CFM external blower that I have a fan curve for that Wolf sent me in 2008. At 630 CFM, the pressure loss of the hood is shown as 0.4 inches of water column. The total pressure loss capability at this flow rate is 0.85 in., w.c. This leaves 0.45 available to the MUA. In there are no combustion appliances, this limit can be avoided by a damper controlled duct and any 3M Filtrite 1-inch furnace filter. However, a tighter inside-outside pressure drop may be desirable to assure little air infiltration through walls. If there are combustion appliances such as gas water heaters that require very small differential pressures to not back-draft carbon monoxide, then they drive the degree of tighter control. Before getting too fancy, what combustion appliances do you have, excluding the range?

Look into PlantSelect.org. They've tested a variety of perennials, shrubs, and trees that do well on the Front Range (you'll find the plants at various nurseries around town). Garden in a Box is a great way to get a pre-planned garden. You can buy kits in the spring with all the plants you need or just download their plans and buy the plants on your own. https://resourcecentral.org/gardens/ It's too late in the season to plant now so start working on what you want for next year. Ideal planting time is April-May before it gets hot, then again in September. BTW, we don't cover shrubs here; look for zone 5 plants. You can try some more sensitive plants (rhodies) but you'll need just the right environment and some luck to succeed. Test your soil first to see what nutrients are needed and just how alkaline the soil is. Colorado State University has an extension service that provides lots of info about growing in Colorado; https://extension.colostate.edu/topic-areas/yard-garden/