Apron sink and drip ledge - Is it glued on?
lalithar
12 years ago
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ladyshadowwalker
12 years agoRelated Discussions
Drip rail under apron sink - pics and installation details
Comments (1)Linked the thread below. Here's a photo and explanation for a panel-front farm sink and another for a custom marble sink . Both are by Christopher Peacock who does more than most and usually in a dark stained wood. But the wood could be stained in any way or the rail can be painted. I've not seen one done in applied stone. Usually it's some type of molding to cover the seams. Here is a link that might be useful: Drip rail thread...See MoreStainless Apron Sink - Whats It Like to Live With?
Comments (3)Everybody's lifestyles are different, of course, but in our family I'm finding our stainless apron front sink requires about the least maintenance in our kitchen. (our marble counters / backsplash requires the least) Regardless of material we'd have to wipe down the interior of the sink. In our penultimate house we had a white sink which had me dreaming of living in a yurt (that's how much I hated it -- showed everything). I knew stainless would be easier than that! Our sink's been in and used non-stop since last May, and so far no scratches on its (apron) face. Not a one. I don't wear lots of belts, but my partner does and he spends plenty of time at the sink, so I don't think that's it. Sure, there can be water spots on the lip / ledge, but I either wipe them up when I'm at the sink doing whatever or I catch them the next time. And when I'm wiping the lip / ledge I can wipe the front, because that wiping is when water drips down the front anyway. Of our stainless appliances (microwave and cooktop), the sink requires the least wiping down to be "pretty." In our last house all the appliances (dishwasher, trash compactor, refrigerator / freezer) were stainless and I thought I'd go mad. MAD! Those showed everything and showed them relentlessly (esp. the refrigerator, dishwasher and trash compactor -- those vertical surfaces are a killer). I'm in my 30s, and I think every grey hair on my head is attributable to those appliances! But on the bright side, they informed my choice of paneled appliances this time around. (and I've had zippo regrets)...See MoreDrip rail under rounded corners of Shaws sink? Too weird?
Comments (11)You know...it's funny how such seemingly small things such as drip rails or pull-out breadboards can add such nice subtle touches to kitchens and provide the opportunity to spice things up a bit (translation: to obsess even more)! davidro1 - I wish I could see a pic of what you mean. Trying to imagine this metal! At any rate my contractor's begun cutting wood. Thank you for your thoughts! Rococogurl - I agree with what you wrote about the top pic being nicer and also about contrast in color being better. My contractor brought over one that he made today, out of maple. He did no curving but had it slant slightly downward, subtly, and then it's gently softened on the ends (not too sharp). It extends out further than the sink a bit, like the first pic you and I both like. I think I like contrasty color because it makes the drip rail appear to be more of a deliberate design choice as opposed to a necessity (even though it is)! He's going to make the fat piece thinner then bring it back tomorrow. He aimed for the approximate thickness of the new pull-out cutting board which will be to the right of the sink and up a bit, under the countertop. So not as fat as the pics we've seen but not too thin for my simple kitchen. It also dawned on me today that my sink's probably one of the only ones anywhere (quite literally) that's pushed back so that it's almost flush with the lower cabs (due to needing to meet the wall-mounted faucet at a reasonable place). And that because it's so tightly scribed, the front corners actually appear to be less curved! Crazy huh? So in the end, it might not looks so odd after all!! You can kind of see what I mean by looking in the pic below (though better scribing job this second time around w/ the better contractor). Color question, if you don't mind (the length of this post, that is!): what do you think about making the drip rail match the front of the pull-out cutting board (as opposed to the floors which are original fir and very orange looking)? And what the heck do I do for a color?! My contractor thought stain wouldn't hold up as well as paint. The wood will be maple. I thought a clear satin maple finish might be nice - on both the drip rail as well as the front of the pull-out cutting board (which will have a cute little knob of some sort, I think) though that's only cause I can't think what else to do. Black seems too dramatic; a dark brown or cherry finish won't match anything in the kitchen since my butcher block tiny island has a maple top, much to my disappointment (Craigslist...I wish it were a dark-topped Boos island but oh well!). But will a clear varnish look bad? The kitchen main colors including cabs will be some version of BM's Fieldstone gray (a gray w/ hint of green color) along with some cream color (and perhaps some white). I like the cheerfulness of the drip rail in the link below (at the bottom). I have no updated pics but I'll include a quite older pic to give you an idea in the daylight. There have been several improvements since. Ignore the brown bowl which is never usually in there. Thank you! Here is a link that might be useful:...See MoreSinks! Drain location, Julien vs CreateGoodSinks, & prep sink question
Comments (33)@C. First of all, if you are 5'10" and have really bad back pain, then a 38" countertop height might still be too low for you. I'm barely 5'7" when when standing up as straight as I can, and a 38 3/4" countertop height is very comfortable for me. At 5'10", you could easily go up to a 40" countertop height. It is uncommon for kitchen designers to specify countertops much higher than 40" for anyone except a frequent kitchen user who is taller than 6 feet in order to retain the general usability for varying heights of potential users, but you may always do what you find best for yourself. I would encourage you to do a mockup of a 40" countertop height and try different tasks like chopping on a cutting board and stirring in mixing bowls to see how you like it. Remember that you should allow 1/2" for cabinetry leveling, so find your perfect height, and then subtract 1/2" (from the total of cabinetry plus countertop) when placing your order. The minimum possible front countertop ledge width is determined by factors which contribute to the risk of a break. I will guarantee you that ledge width in your picture is probably wider in person than it may appear here. Few fabricators will cut a continuous ledge (meaning without seams) less than 2 1/2" to 3" wide, and some fabricators will even burden you with a 4" or greater ledge, though that is excessive. The Galley issues guidelines for cutting the sink hole with no seams around the hole, but this technique complicates the handling and transport of the piece because that area is so delicate once it is cut. If I understand, correctly your countertop will only be 1/2" thick which may mean that you are using porcelain or something of that nature, and in that case, the substrate will dictate that you will need a seam for a narrow front ledge rather than having the sink cut from the middle. Porcelain is already fragile, and it won't survive the handling, transport, and installation with a pre-cut, narrow, continuous sink ledge. Be cautious of any fabricator who wants to install steel rods to help stabilize a front sink ledge. Those rods can get wet and swell and cause future breakage. The best policy is to avoid rod reinforcement. In terms of ergonomics, the height of your countertop and the height of your sink is relatively more important than how far forward you stand to the sink, but if you have really bad back pain and want to give your best effort to eliminating that in your kitchen, then an apron-front sink still needs to be on your list for consideration. I regularly operate within the full confines of the apron front which brings dishes and other tasks such as cleaning the sink very close to my body and allows me to stand mostly upright. It is the leaning forward at a sink that strains your back, and you will lose at least a hand width's advantage with a non-apron-front sink of your ability to work closer to your body to minimize leaning. For many people this is not an issue, and due to the fact that non-apron-front sinks are usually less expensive and more plentiful in terms of brands and styles, plus more aesthetically pleasing in many instances, the majority of kitchen remodelers are not using apron-fronts. Both Rachiele and Havens offer texturing for their stainless steel sinks, and if you look at their portfolios, you'll see that a hammered or otherwise textured finish is actually very pretty for an apron front sink. I have a textured finish, and it hides water spots and scratches and it looks as new today as it did several years ago when I had it installed. My only caution is that the interior of the sink should preferably be smooth to aid with cleaning. I believe that texturing can be applied only to the forward-facing and top ledge part of the apron front if you like that look. Spillage over the apron front is not a problem for me. Every now and then, I might get a small drip down the apron front, maybe after loading the dishwasher with something wet, but nothing more than you would sometimes get from a sink with a ledge that gets water on the front ledge and drips down occasionally. I would be hard pressed to say if I even have to wipe drips of water off the apron front even once per week. It just really is not a problem for me. It sounds like you are on the right track to helping with your ergonomics. As I mentioned earlier, your first step is to see if you can raise those countertops up to 40". If you do a lot of bread kneading or something where you need your arms straight down, you might consider doing dual levels somewhere in the kitchen. Generally, 41" to 42" is the upper stretch of a modified countertop height, and that would be for someone taller than 6 feet. The reason that we don't like to raise the countertop much more than that is because then they become unusable for people who are shorter. However, at a height of 5'10" with back problems, 40" is not at all out of reason. Be aware that if you wear shoes with thick soles when you are working in the kitchen or if you intend to put down a comfort mat on the floor that has substantial thickness, those factors could alter how you feel about your cabinetry height. Mocking up a height and doing various tasks is the most reliable way to determine what is best for you....See Morelalithar
12 years agoliriodendron
12 years ago
Circus Peanut
12 years agoOurs is a piece of extra cabinet cherrywood constructed with mitered corners. The side pieces are screwed in diagonally to the cabinet , the screwholes filled and finished, and the joint is tightly glued. Hope these help:
liriodendron
12 years agolalithar
12 years agoci_lantro
12 years agoliriodendron
12 years ago
Aglitter
5 years agolast modified: 5 years ago"I would also install the sink with a good bead of (hidden) caulk under its front edge to make sure water couldn't slither its way backwards under the edge of the sink."
Thanks for this idea; I'll probably do that and use silicone.
I realize this is an old thread but wanted to post more info for anyone researching the archives. I just ordered a Havens Metal apron-front sink that the company says has a 90-degree angle at the bottom of the apron with a finished lower edge that extends 1 1/2" out from the cabinet box. The company has never known of any prior customer with one of their apron-front sinks requiring a drip rail, so it could be as @lirirodendron mentioned that with a sharp edge sitting far enough out from the cabinet box, dripping onto the lower cabinets won't be a problem. A curtain underneath the sink rather than cabinets would be another solution. I've noticed that all of the sinks I've seen with drip rails appear to be of the fireclay style with a rounded bottom edge. Other fireclay sinks I've seen without drip rails are sometimes mounted flush with the cabinet box which creates an obvious path of travel for drips.
Here are a few photos from Christopher Peacock of contrasting drip rails such as mentioned in previous comments, links to original Instagram pictures at https://www.instagram.com/christopherpeacock/
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