furniture restorers, can these dressers be saved?

15 years ago

I know it's entirely unfair to title a post like that and then not provide pics... so I *promise* they're on the way.

We scored on Craigslist this weekend, but now DH is dubious. I told him that if anyone could help us make these dressers look fabulous, it'd be you nice people, so don't let me down!

1) looks to be 1920s ish, but what do I know? "Waterfall" curved top, 3 drawer, plus open compartment on the bottom. Each drawer and the cabinets below are sort of striped. That is, on the outer sides of the dresser is an oak veneer, banded by a narrow, complex vertical wood inlay (sort of a stripe). The middle section looks like walnut veneer, and isn't in good shape -- parts of it look worn and much lighter than the rest. The compartment's bottom is pretty much kaput, but that's just a piece of plywood, not a big deal.

My main question: what wood refinishers do I use to make this look pretty again? I'm assuming I need something like Restore-A-Finish? (have never used it, but I've read enthusiastic reports from many of you) And do I need to do anything about the Pledge the previous owner was spraying on it as I pulled up, in a last-ditch effort to try to improve it before I got there?

Also, previously-brass drawer pulls are quite worn. They're fabulous, if hard to describe without a pic: circular, almost like steering wheels, with a red glass bead in the center. Can I restore the metal parts of these to any kind of luster somehow?

2) 8-drawer dresser: generally in great shape, except for one flaw: veneer on top is placed in long bands, and one of the bands in the back has popped up a bit (not all the way along the dresser top: just a few inches' worth). The seller said we could glue it. Is he right? With what glue? And then do we stand there and press down on it for half an hour till it "takes" enough to leave a pile of books on it overnight?

And, assuming I ever get this ambitious: this dresser is oak in tone (it's clearly solid wood, could be actual oak, but haven't seen quite enough of it to be sure). For various reasons we think we might like to darken this piece. Are there any products out there (gel stain?) that could do so while not cloaking the wood grain and also not necessitating sanding every millimeter of the (large) dresser?

I promise, pics are coming, and thank you to anyone who's read this far without giving up in disgust. I know pictures are worth more than a thousand words in this case.

And, hooray, we got both of these dressers and a little magazine-stand-occasional-table for $240. Turns out DH is quite the bargainer after all!

Sort by:Oldest

Comment (1)

cooperbailey
15 years ago
I think you will be needing to strip the finish if you are going to darken the stain. You should be able to do it without raising the grain too awful much, but finish sanding most likely will have to be done. The shortest way not always the best.
I have not used gel stain but the old fashioned way is to remove the old finish, lightly sand with 180-220 grit. stain and then put a urethane or shellac or whatever. If the piece is flat and no turnings- you can pretty quickly sand off the finish with a pad sander and fine grit and an even light hand.
There is a thread in the antique section that discussed popped veneers and the treatment. Scroll down to bottom one of the guys sounds knowledeable. And i am sure someone else can pop in here too.
As for the pulls- I think you can lightly clean them up with first a damp cloth and then a dampcloth with a bit of dishsoap. if the brass is rubbed off, not much you can do short of painting or getting the brass reapplied by a specialist. have fun!
Related Discussions
Can this sideboard be saved?
Q
Comments (21)
sarschlos: thank you ;) There were no nicks or dings, it was in near perfect condition except for a light ring on the horizontal surface and years of polishes and crud build up. I, however, managed to put a nice ding smack dab in the middle of the front when I pulled a piece of my pewter out of the upper cabinet and it slipped out of my hand, bounced off the hardwood floor (dinged that too), then bounced against the hutch. :( I like to be careful with veneers, since they are a layer of wood applied rather than solid wood. Especially vintage or antique. So I treat them with extra TLC just to be safe. Steps would be the same except try the RAF without the steel wool first, just on a rag. If there's some tougher spots, gently use the steel wool. (I should have added above that steel wool is used more gently, with a 'wiping' pressure rather than a harder rubbing pressure like when using sandpaper. IOW, more pressure than when you're dusting but less pressure than when you're trying to get some ick off the stove, if that helps. ;) Otherwise you could well get 'swirl' marks in the finish. Steel wool might leave some 'dulled' areas if you've got say a water ring to rub out, but the Beeswax will shine it right back up again. The RAF does come in a clear, which just gives the wood a fresher look. Then there's oak, which really doesn't impact shade much. The antique dealer who introduced me to is uses Walnut shade on just about every color stain/type of wood he comes across. Just my humble .02: any woods/stain with earthy brown hues, use walnut shade. Any woods/stain with a bit of red hues, use Mahogany (a brownish red tone). Any light, nearly 'bare' natural, go for either Oak or Natural RAF. I have my MIL's waterfall cedar chest in the garage (on the To Do list). Beautiful piece but after being stored in her attic with something sitting on it for years there was an area about 3" diameter where the finish was nearly (but not completely) rubbed off the veneer. I really didn't want to strip/refinish it, the veneer is weakening from that attic storage. Didn't want to put stain on that spot, I'd never safely sand it off without damaging the good parts. So with a what-the-heck attitude rubbed some Walnut RAF on the damaged spot and holy cow, it nearly matched the good finished areas. If we ever get warm temps back I might try some Minwax Wipe on Poly (good stuff for small jobs) to get the shine back and see if I can't make that little patch blend back in to where it's barely noticeable.
...See More
Buying furniture 'online' to save quite a bit of money?
Q
Comments (16)
I agree. I don't mind spending more to buy at local businesses. I just ordered tile for our bath update and spend more than I could have gotten it online, but the store is a locally-owned business. OTH, I priced a faucet and toilet at a local plumbing supply and their price was $500 more for the exact same items than I could get it online. That's too much difference for me to go local. I admit I didn't ask the plumbing store to match the online price but mainly because it was so much. Dee
...See More
Restoration Hardware French Gray Furniture wall paint match?
Q
Comments (7)
Farrow & Ball's Dimity is a whisper of grayed-down pink, and Great White is barely lavender-tinted. If you want a barely-there color, and depending on your light, either of them would look lovely with RH's gray. For a stronger pink, Pink Ground (also F&B) might please you. Among the more usual suspects, I like SW 7116 A la Mode for a peachy pink, and 7114 Palish Peach for a less yellow one. (The first few times I specified that one, I thought it was "Polish Pink," which caused a few chuckles among the painters...) Pratt & Lambert has a really girly one, also on the pale, luminous side, called Smokestain Rose, also great with gray.
...See More
What is this dresser and how can I restore it?
Q
Comments (46)
About the repair of the wood split in front door. I can't tell from the photos, but it appears that it is not a wood split, rather the door is made of several layers of wood glued together. Whatever the case, the repair is the same for wood split or debonding of a layer. 1. The problem we face is that if the hinges are shifted a tiny amount, the door will not fit properly upon reassembly. Because of this, I do not recommend disturbing the hinge screws . If the hinges allow removal of the hinge pins, remove the door by removing the hinge pins. First, partially drive out the pins, and then support the door and finish removing the pins. If the hinge pins cannot be removed, then move to option 2. 2. Option 2: Repair without door removal. Before gluing, gather the necessary clamping items and test fit the clamps, that is, try to apply the clamps before applying adhesive. Get two boards to fit between between the clamp jaws and the work piece. This is to prevent the clamp from denting the door. Since the door is attached to the cabinet, maybe only one clamp can be applied. Apply the clamping pieces and inspect. If it is usable, then proceed with the adhesive. Before gluing, mask off any surfaces that need protection from errant adhesive. Work the adhesive into the separation as best you can and clamp. Wipe off any excess that squeezes out. Do not get any on the finish surfaces of the door. Tighten the hinge screws that are in the door. Do not over tighten, merely insure these are snug. After the adhesive has set, remove the clamps and proceed with the repair. 3. Option 3: Door removal when hinge pins can not be removed Since the hinge screws and wood are in good condition on the cabinet wall, remove the door by removing hinge screws in the cabinet wall. Leave the hinges attached to the door. Proceed with the repair.
...See More

furniture restorers, can these dressers be saved?

Comment (1)

cooperbailey

Related Discussions

COMPANY

BUSINESS SERVICES

GET HELP

CONNECT WITH US