Did you try bleeding the valve by removing that little screw and running it (and getting sprayed...)? When you take out that screw -- solenoid on or off -- it should definitely run and stay running. You can try to just not tighten it too much and see if that works. But, it might dribble a bit. Sounds like something might be wrong with the valve. They usually have good warranties. If you can remove the valve completely and take it to a good irrigation shop, they'll figure it out for you. Also, when you start it and then it shuts off after a minute, do you hear it shutting off at the valve? For whatever it's worth, I've not personally had consistent longevity out of Home D's stuff (the green Orbit ones). I since replaced with Champion and Superior and they just keep chugging along. Some of those have lifetime warranties. I think it's on the brass ones.

THANKS GUYS, Would either of you happen to have part number for the rubber washer, or know the size ? Also, What size is the cap nut ? I was thinking "If I Had to replace the valve", by removing the cap nut, this would expose the threaded shaft. From here, I would use a reducer down to fit the new shut off valve inlet. Then cap the original (in the wall) outlet to tank. This in effect would be two valves in Series, and sure beats the Hell out of destroying the tile. Next question ... Does anyone make a Reducer of that size, and if so where can I get It ?? Thanks Again, Nitrojc.

The seals in shut off valves, at least older models, have a tendency to deteriorate over time just sitting there as they are used infrequently and the packing/seals can deform or go bad. The simplest fix for this is to shut off your main water valve, open a couple of taps that are at low points in the system to drain it, and remove and replace the valve with a new one. The newer models that have a quarter turn to shut off or to open typically have a nylon ball as a valve and you should not end up with this problem in the future if you do the replacement. Trust me, it should be a lot easier to put in a new valve than to try to repair the old one. It's usually a quick job as long as the old valve isn't rusted onto the piping. If you don't have some experience doing plumbing repair, it would be best to get a knowledgeable friend to help or pay a plumber as there are different size connections on these valves, and the connection to the piping can be screw-on or compression, or (less often) soldered on.

I'm a big believer in using penetrants and giving them time to work. Spray, give the connection a few taps to jar things around, spray again, walk away. Come back and spray/ tap when you think about it. Most of the time, the un-budgeable will yield with minimal effort. Tomorrow.