zetasoul, what exactly is coming out out of the wall right now. Is it just a standard pvc stub, just the end of the pipe? Or is there a fitting on the end of the pvc? The sink tailpiece will insert into the P-trap inlet and be captured with a threaded nut. The P-trap then connects to the tailpiece, the P-trap tailpiece runs horizontally and goes into the piece of PVC sticking out of the wall. It sounds like all you have right now is just the nub end of a piece of PVC sticking out of your wall? No fitting on it? You need a trap adapter. One end of the adaptor gets glued to that nub sticking out of the wall. Your horizontal P-trap tailpiece then sleeves inside the other end of the trap adapter, a nut is tightened, and it's sealed by compression on the sleeved joint. If you look at the photo below, it the adapter is the piece in the far right of the photo. You can see the left end of the adapter is screwed to the horizontal tailpiece. The right end of the adapter will get glued to the pvc nub coming out of the wall. Here's a photo of one version of the adapter, you'll want one made out of PVC: Raehelen, just for clarification, she's using pvc, so she should use PVC glue and not ABS glue.

Your current configuration has a number of code violations. You have a regular Tee connecting the two drains but code requires a baffled tee: Ref IRC-2707.1 & UPC-405.4: Directional fittings are required for continuous wastes from a disposal or Dishwasher (I.E. Wyes, ComboÂs or TeeÂs with baffles). Your Tee is connected by means of slip joints: Ref. IRC-3201.1 & UPC-1002.3: Maximum of one (1) slip joint on the outlet side of a P-trap NOTE: slip joint type P-traps and waste fittings are made to Tube Standard and the single slip joint permitted on the discharge side of the P-trap is the "Trap Adapter" that transitions the slip joint tubing to the Pipe size to match the drain piping in the wall. You can rule out looking for a higher P-trap because P-traps are made to ASTM specification and they are all the same. Increasing the height of the P-trap would increase the water level in the trap above the code maximum of 4". THE POSILBE SOLUTIONS: 1. Install the exact same make and model of disposal and waste kit as was originally installed. 2. Remove the factory supplied ¼ bend on the disposal output and use a Disposal Type" end waste kit. (An ordinary end waste kit has a molded ¼ bend on the cross tube that is intended to be connected to a sink drain tailpiece. A "Disposal Type" end waste kit has a straight cross tube with a flange connection on the input end. The factory supplied ¼ bend in the disposal kit is discarded and the cross tube is connected directly to the disposal port. This keeps the cross tube about 3" to 4" higher. The disposal type end waste kit comes with the code required baffled Tee.) 3. Open the wall and lower the elevation of the waste arm. 4. If you are under the IRC and if the waste arm is a 2" pipe you could cut the trap adapter off the waste arm then install a Wye with a trap adapter on the end and the side port, then install separate traps from each sink. (Note: It must be a 2" waste arm because if you install separate traps the load must be computed as separate sinks with a 3DFU value for each trap. Under the IRC the maximum permissible load on an 1-1/2" line is 3DFU however if it is a 2" line the maximum load is 6DFU and separate traps would be permitted. (Note-The UPC prohibits connecting two traps to a common waste arm)

a p trap can be twisted into lots of shapes; it doesn't have to run in a straight plane.... just saying this in case it is not clear... 2. then , even with a full size trap (which can take on any shape), the plumber has the option under Code to run the sink drain over horizontally to somewhere towards the wall and then drop the drain down to the trap. This is in other words two tight radius elbows in the drain line, the first one right under the sink tailpiece and the second one above the ptrap. 3. he can also offset with two 45 degree turns (called one eighth bends) 4. any combination of the above is permissible too. 5. offset drains are made in one piece if you wish to have that too. The key words to search on are Tubular double-offset or just "offset drain" . Executive Summary: you do not need any other P trap. The standard P trap works when you re-route the drain line to fit your space no matter how tight the space is. -david

There is nothing technically wrong with that PEX installation other than the fact that it looks a bit amatuerish and if you are really intent of messing with it you could make that one change I noted on the PEX but, that would only give you a net gain of 0.3psi so at this point I don't think it would really be worth the effort. Now in regards to the fixture cross. A fixture cross is nothing buy a variation of a sanitary cross (Double tee) where the top inlet and the two side inlets are smaller than the outlet....In fact, you could produce the same fitting using a 2" sani cross and installing 2" x 1-1/2" reducer bushings on the top and two side openings. The fitting at the top of the photo where the two aux vents tie into the vertical riser is a sani-cross that is inverted, and when attaching vents it is required to be installed in that manner. The fitting in the center of the photo where the fixture arms are attached is a double wye. Not that the side arms come off the fitting rising at a 45deg angle, then they installed 1/8 bends (sanitary 45 deg elbows) to turn the line to the horizontal plane. Under the IRC the bottom of the fixture arm pipe at the trap weir may not be higher than the top of the pipe at the vent opening. (see attached illustration). Now that is very important, because even though the code gives us maximum developed lengths for the fixture arms, that will only hold true if the fixture arm is installed with the prescribed 1/4" per foot pitch. Under the IRC the maximum allowable length of the fixture arm is technically equal to the diameter of the pipe divided by the pitch of the run, thus if you were to install a 2" pipe with a 1/2" per foot pitch, the maximum allowable length would be 2" / .5 = 4'. The fixture cross in the illustration is compliments of Harvel Pipe company, one of the leading manufacturers of plastic pipe and fittings.