Thanks bungeeii. I actually made contact with a spray company that had a certified Energystar auditor working with them. They did an energy audit today and took measurements to estimate the job. They estimated the following rebates, and will put these terms in the contract as stipulations before any work is done: 1. audit costs $400 with $125 rebated if the work is done. 2. $1000 govt rebate off the top for a thin barrier spray in the attic floor. I don't have the exact terminology in front of me, but it is basically a skim coat of foam onto which is blown cellulose or other for attic insulation. 3. up to 50% rebate ($5000 max) depending on the results of the energy audit. Because I have high efficiency furnaces and on-demand hot water, she says that I will rate at a 25%+ energy savings, which will put me at the 50% rebate from the govt. The rebate takes about 10 weeks. So, in their example, if the job costs $11,000, I pay $10,000 plus the $400 for the audit ($1000 "instant" rebate for the attic thing), then get $5000 + $125 back in 10 weeks. After my contractor subtracts out what he was charging me for fiberglass, I should net out at a very reasonable number. The people today were my third estimate, and I believe they were the most knowledgeable about the right thing to do. I'm just waiting till next week for their estimate. Thanks again, I think I'm finally getting the right game plan together!

I offer him sympathy at the thought of making his job "more difficult" even though that's an attitude and not a reality. OTOH, he really should learn what is involved with spray foam insulation -- and you can tell him you won't charge him for the learning experience! Yes, there are after-the-fact spray-in foams, but there is no reason to try them in this situation. I think the plumber is pushing his luck because few if any properly constructed new houses install showers etc until AFTER the insulation is put on. There is no way to be sure the insulation is solid and without leakage after the walls (or shower walls) are installed.

Hello could you say more about other ways of insulating besides foam . I did have a foam guy come look at it, and give me a quote for foaming the underside of the cathedral ceiling (the slanty part) The knee wall wouldnt be done, but the ceiling inside the closet (on the other side of the knee wall) would. $500 really isn't too bad for the work hed do, but its a HECKUVA lot of hassle on my part, removing plaster, lathe and grungy old rock wool. My lungs hurt just thinking about it! (Yes, I will wear a respirator.) What I'm wondering now is 1) is it worth the effort, is it going to make that much of a difference - since the rafter space would only be 4 1/4" (they would fill to the top and I would shave off the overflow). And 2) is foam really the best way to go? NOTE that there are NO soffit vents and never were - the attic is small and appears to be dry and well ventilated by the 2 gable vents. there is old rock wool in the cathedral ceiling now so the idea then as now was just to plug it up. Thank you all - your advice / feedback is greatly appreciated!

Thanks for your responses. This is a home in Florida. The block is the walls of the home ( no basements in Fla) This injection spray foam is done to fill up gaps in the cinder block to increase insulation and seal up the home. What my husband and I have noticed is small areas of dampness on the interior and exterior surfaces of the cinder block and it must be coming from the insulation. Wondering if anyone has any experience in this happening to their homes/ jobs and what to do about it. Our gut feeling is that the foam mixture was not mixed properly not allowing the foam to harden.