Here is a pic of what the plumbing looks like under the counter.

Not all plumbing codes or manufacturer's installation instructions require an air gap on a dishwasher.

You can usually remove the air gap and assure that a backflow condition will not occur by simply looping and fastening the continuous dishwasher drain line to the underside of the counter.

See figures 1 and 2:

http://www.applianceaid.com/pictools/drain_help.JPG

I think there will be a drain gurgling noise under almost all drain plumbing configurations; it's not because of an air gap.

I agree this is an irritant. I'm planning to plumb my P trap down low near the stack on teh back wall behind teh cabinetry. The DW would connect with a high loop running into a Wye down low near the P trap.

If there are silencers on air gaps I'd be glad to know.
Perhaps some DW drain more noisily. (Older ones?)
I'm not in the plumbing field so I don't know.
I just wish it didn't make this ugly noise every time it runs.

-david

Looking at your undersink photo I see that the hose that connects the airgap to the garbage disposal travels far below the disposal drain and then loops back up to connect to the disposal. This loop would cause an annoying siphoning or sucking sound as the drain cycle ends.

What I would do is eliminate the long loop and connect the airgap to the disposal using a much shorter hose. Make sure the hose does not descend below the horizontal disposal drain. You may need a different type of hose, one that will bend without kinking. I have used 3/4 copper pipe connecters (couple of 45 or 90 degree bends) to handle tight bends without kinking the hose.

It's not a good idea to eliminate the air gap. The air gap gives water a place to escape if your disposal drain is temporarily clogged.

hope this helps

I disagree..my opinion..remove the airgap fitting all togather, putit in a little storage box
hook the drain up from the dishwasher to the garbage disposal..and tie the loop up to the bottom of sink clips..
buy a "cock hole cover" to put in the hole...or a soap dispencer or a hand cream dispenser.save your parts
so that, when you decide to move/sell..you can make it legal
again..
there is not a danger or health hazords of any type.your eamily is safe..

Plumbing for 30 yrs./ frodo is correct.

Frodo,
If you remove the air gap hose, how do you cap off that hole coming out of the dishwasher? Do you leave air gap hose connected to the dishwasher and just cap it off where it comes out on the counter top?
It looks like the drain from the dishwasher is already going to the disposal. What would need to be done differently? Would the drain hose need to be replaced with a different kind?

first off its not hooked up right.the grider should go to the trap and the other part of sinc should go to that grinder. if its too noisy u can simply wrap the pipes w/ insulation which will really quiet em down plus it looks like abs piping which is not pvc piping and that alone is much noisser piping lol.but tou need a grinder tailpiece which will be a 90 degree adpt. ftg than a santee which you can run sinc drain too. good luck

Original question in the first post above was "How to Stop the Noise" -- so it is not relevant to discuss how to re-route the plumbing after removing the air gap IF the noise will still be present. (!!)

I have no air gap today, and lots of noise from my dishwasher draining. (!!!)

The question is about NOISE.

-david

well davidro i did explain how to take care of the noise so read on a lil first before u post u half-wit

Here are more pics if it is unclear on the setup.

One more thing. If the air gap is removed, won't the same noises just come through the sink drain holes instead or will removing the air gap definitely silence the loud gurgling water noises while the dishwasher drains?

reroute the hose to bypass the vacuum breaker and buy a soap dispenser or a "cock hole cover" its a round stainless
pretty..that has a threaded stud and washer nut for under the sink..i like the soap/hand cleaner/lotion pump,,best

i think i did not make it clear..sorry..i do it again
disconnect the air gapfitting..take it out
the hose that comes from the dishwasher...loop it up to the bottom the cabinet,strap it off..then hook the end of the line coming from the dishwasher into the side of the garbage disposal..the airgap fitting and the extra hose put them in a box, for latter..the hole in the sink
put a soap despenser in there

So Frodo is saying remove the big black hose that now goes down from the air gap to the disposer and instead connect the smaller white dishwasher drain hose directly the disposer and cover the hole in the counter top with a cock stopper plate.

Daveplumber says to connect the dishwasher drain hose to other sink (side without disposer) with a dishwasher tailpiece

What are pros and cons of both ways?
It looks like I would need to get a bunch of new pipe installed in order to do it the second way because I don;t see any way to connect the tailpiece part to the existing pipe, but if that makes it much quieter than it would be going into the disposer on the other side, it may be worth it as long as it isn't more prone to clogging, leaks or backflow.

you can do it either way.it dosent matter...get a 2" peice of pipe 3/4?
and sweat a cap on it..opps you dont solider
buy a 2" brass nipple and a brass cap and using a peice of the hose[short peice] and hose clamps close off the hole in the side of your garbage disposal
why brass..it costs alot???because it wont rust out

I think I might try it like Figure 2 because it sounds more simple and and I can still always change it to the other way if I'm not satisfied by the noise the draining water makes in the disposal.

However, if I end up doing it like Figure 1 installing the dishwasher directly to the sink drain, should the tailpiece attachment be connected at red, yellow or blue location or does it not matter?

According to the diagram in Figure 1 it should be at the yellow area:
But there doesn't seem to be enough space to install a tailpiece there in my photo.
If a longer piece of pipe was installed at the yellow location to allow for space to install the dishwasher tailpiece, then it would become too long to line up properly with the disposer's drain connection.

you are right, not where you put the blue.

more than one way to skin a cat. Anywhere in the range of the yellow or red for both these connections is Fine. They can be combined together in a single fitting, or combined together in a Wye before that then gets combined with a San-Tee. Another part useable here has a weird name, a double cross baffle tee.
You are right that removing the air gap as in Figure Two is a good first step, and then moving to Figure One is next.

In all cases shown above there is a High Loop. However, nobody has discussed this above and the diagram only shows it without saying it is necessary. Please confirm you will loop the hose high first before running it down into the connector fitting.

-david

Just a warning about the plastic tail piece for DW hook up.

In laws had one installed.
They have a deflector that obstructs nearly half the pipe to divert the flow towards the drain.
It catches all sorts of things that make it down the drain from the sink or GD.

The metal tail pieces with a DW tail do not have the needless obstruction.

I made some changes and it works. It's much quieter now.

For some reason the message won't post with photos.

http://i43.tinypic.com/29dtxqw.jpg

Here is a link that might be useful:

you bypassed the air gap. You didn't have enough hose to make it loop high, but you did the best you could.

Glad it ended up quieter.

Should it be OK the way it is?
Does that hose need support to hold it up long term or need to be replaced with a longer hose that can be looped higher?
Replacing the hose would require removing the dishwasher to access where the house connects and seems like a lot of work unless it is very important.

I just noticed that the dishwasher drain is on the side of the trap closest to the sewer instead of the far side of the trap. Is this a big problem for the dishwasher? I thought the water in the trap was supposed to block sewer gas from coming in and I don't see how that could work now.

You are right. Sorry I didn't catch that, in the image.

You cannot leave it that way. You already know most of the big reasons why not. If you need to read all the problems, find out about sewer gases. Some are lethal (but my saying this is not designed to give you nightmares).

The DW connection has to go on the other side of the P trap. You can buy more hose instead of replacing that one. Radiator hose for car motors is good because it is smoother inside. The reason these cheap hoses are corrugated is to ensure they never collapse. A smoother inside wall can reduce noise quite a bit - not in all cases, as it depends on the flow and how you configure the geometry of the fall.

HTH
-david

There is no room in the piping and in that space under the sink to do this any other way. The only option is to put it back the way it was originally. There isn't room to connect the dishwasher drain on the other side of the P trap.

No room the way those fittings are connected now. Cut them all out and build it all over again, and you will fit it. A Ptrap can be swiveled around to suit the need. Also, the P trap does not have to be positioned directly underneath the sink tailpiece.

-david

I found someone who made some more changes. He didn't have a Y tailpiece to hook the dishwasher to right side sink and he said it's not a good idea to connect to the dishwasher drain to the side without the disposer because food particles from the dishwasher are more likely to cause a clog on that side.
Because of this, I have to remember to put the drain stopper in the sink to block most of the noise the water makes in the disposer or else it is still a bit noisy.
With the stopper in place, it's quiet enough.

Before congratulations, let's ask now: instead of a Wye, he used a Tee. BUT is is a San-Tee? The image doesn't look like it.

I don't know what that means.

Find out what a San-Tee is.
A Sanitary Tee.

There are more than one kind of Tee.

Much of the comment here says the noise is coming from the water dumping into the garbage disposal. I have tried plugging the garbage disposal drain, and it is clear that the noise is coming from the air break, I am in California so the air break is mandatory.

California is a communist nanny state. Defy them please. The rest of the country doesn't use air gaps and there isn't a single problem. Ever.

The featured answer is, in my case, incorrect. If I hold my finger over the hole in the air gap cover, nearly all of the noise is muted, even with the plug out sink, leaving the grinder exposed to the air. The noise is clearly coming from the air gap.