Air gap gurgles like crazy when dishwasher runs - should it?
chefkev
15 years ago
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Comments (17)
zl700
15 years agochefkev
15 years agoRelated Discussions
MIele dishwasher gurgling sound
Comments (20)As noted above, the IPC may not apply, but to complete my comment, here are some relevant IPC codes. Per 1002.1 Fixture traps. The distance between a sink drain (bottom of sink) and the trap weir (height of water in trap) must be less than or equal to 2 feet. Per 802.1.6 Domestic dishwashing machines. Discharge through an air gap or an air break into one of the following: o A standpipe o A waste receptor o One of the following connections with one of the configurations - - Connections x x x A wye-branch fitting on the tailpiece of the kitchen sink x x x The dishwasher connection of a food waste grinder - - Configurations x x x Use a deck mounted air-gap x x x Raise the waste line and fasten it to one of the following .............Underside of sink rim .............Underside of counter This latter requirement seems to be missing from the configuration photographed. (And, obviously, a good way of tabbing in the message form is missing from my knowledge base.) kas...See MoreObnoxious Air Gap Noise From Draining Dishwasher
Comments (34)You are right. Sorry I didn't catch that, in the image. You cannot leave it that way. You already know most of the big reasons why not. If you need to read all the problems, find out about sewer gases. Some are lethal (but my saying this is not designed to give you nightmares). The DW connection has to go on the other side of the P trap. You can buy more hose instead of replacing that one. Radiator hose for car motors is good because it is smoother inside. The reason these cheap hoses are corrugated is to ensure they never collapse. A smoother inside wall can reduce noise quite a bit - not in all cases, as it depends on the flow and how you configure the geometry of the fall. HTH -david...See MoreDW Air Gap-is it necessary??
Comments (24)It's true that good dishwasher design will have the bottom spray outlets above the flood level of the dishwasher to further limit risk of siphoning (which is another reason I cited this as a rare problem). Of course, in drawer dishwashers, this can't be done (since they are only open from the top and could completely fill with water), so they can't mitigate the risk in this way (though, like door dishwashers they can use flood switches to detect some flooding conditions -- though for them I think the only switch is for when water leaks from the drawer bin into the outer shell. Floats and flood switches in dishwashers also help prevent this risk.). Sometimes there is little margin for error -- if the inflow of water is greater than the rate it leaks from the door, you still risk siphoning. In this photo, the jets are just barely above the flood line in the DW: Since the dishes sit in a rack even higher than the spray jets, they will only be at risk if the drain water gushes up , splashes up, or if the water level reaches them -- and if the water level reaches the dishes, it's also high enough to cover the spray jets and be a siphoning risk. One non-safety advantage of an on counter air gap is that your sink will take overflow (up to its capacity) instead of your kitchen floor in the event of a drain clog. FWIW, if I were setting the code, I'd consider a high loop sufficient. The alternate risks, though serious, just seem so remote. Not to mention if your city water loses pressure, you should just assume that the initial water when pressure is restored is bad. There are so many non-code installs out there of risky siphoning situations other than DWs (garden irrigation, fountains, fish ponds, pools, etc. Or even with a pool installed to code, if it is being filled from a garden hose dangling in the pool, loss of water pressure could result in siphoning). So it seems like overprotection of one small risk when there are so many others....See MoreDishwasher air gap issue
Comments (16)@Richard Thomas... That's so wrong on so many different levels... if the sewer backs up from a non siphon type of back up then it will flow up and into the drain line. Second, you don't install the air gap behind the p trap. You install it BEFORE the P trap. On the down tube of the sink. But 99% of ppl with an air gap use garbage disposals so that's mostly irrelevant. Also yes I know this thread is old but this info is RELEVANT and can save many others from headaches. Yes a kink or clog will cause water to spew out of the air gap cap but with this older design most of the "trickle leaks" that seem to come from nowhere or underneath actually come from the second set of inner threads that the cap screws down onto. NOT the outer threads that bolt to the sink. Anyways, THE OPs DESIGN OF AIR GAP HAS A DESIGN FLAW. THE THREADS INSIDE WHERE THE INNER CAP TWISTS DOWN GET STRIPPED OVER THE YEARS AND IT STARTS LEAKING FROM THE INSIDE DOWN. It has nothing to do with anything else. Get the other ONE PIECE BODY design. Also for others saying just ditch the air gap. NOT EVERYONE WANTS TO JUST DITCH THE AIR GAP NOR CAN THEY BECAUSE IT'S AGAINST CODE IN MANY STATES....See Moredgsg
15 years agopjb999
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15 years agozl700
15 years agobrickeyee
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15 years agozl700
15 years agopjb999
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15 years agopjb999
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