The temp control input from the indirect overrides the outdoor reset setting on the boiler to a higher predetermined max temp setting, often set around 160. (Usually 20 degrees higher than desired tank temp). This happens as a priority, which is normal and can be overridden, allowing fast production of water and then switching back to heating when done. Even in the summer with the low mass in the boiler, the boiler will be heating your water at a 90%+ efficiency versus a standard gas tank type which is in the 70% range and standby loss from the flue on top of that. (Still much farther ahead)

I also have hard water and use Charlie's Soap, but the truth is, many detergents/soaps don't work well in hard water now that phosphates have been removed from them. Most detergents recommend using MORE than the normal amount if you have hard water and don't use softeners in the wash and the rinse. Another problem is from using COLD water, along with having hard water. Unless specifically designed to be used in cold water, most detergents don't dissolve properly in cold water. Water Temperature Recommendations: HOT (120-140°F) - white and heavily soiled colorfast items WARM (85-105°F) - most loads COLD (65-75°F) - only for bright colors with light soil Cold water below 65°F is not recommended for washing Note: Detergent manufacturers and care labels define cold water as 80-85°F. I doubt if most of us know what the water temperature is - especially in the winter. If the temperature of water in the tub is too cold for your hands, the detergent will not activate and clean effectively. I often think we get caught up in the cold water/save the planet issue, when water temperature is a BIG factor in detergent performance and cleaning ability, not just the detergent. -Grainlady

Hello! So glad to find this thread. We moved into our home 2 years ago. State Select installed 2015. We're on well and septic. Water takes awhile to get hot all over the house except the basement. Feel like I want to replace this water heater. Had a Bradford-White, Rheem for years before that. Both were great. I know I want glass-lined and the longest lasting heater I can find. I think glass-lined is the cleanest. Any thoughts on this? Would very much appreciate. Wondering if I should just let the State go for another year or so. The plumber we've been using installs Rheem. I'm a little afraid to ask them to install a Bradford-White. Would you be? Not sure how to handle that one. Thanks so much.

hex2006- Just 4 times a day? Is that the practice? I've heard about switching on/off every 15/30 mins and that sounded somewhat less than optimal to me... If you flood the roots for 15 mins, wouldn't that be too much for many plants? Conversely, leaving it to dry for 6 hours, isn't that detrimental or at least stressful for many varieties (and even if there is enough moisture, does the plants have enough access to nutrients)? Jeremiah- Yeah, the power consumption was high on my priorities when I considered hydroponics. It's not like I'm gonna sell the produce but I am in a dire lack of excess money to burn- that's why the pump power consumption actually did seemed important to me (unless I'm growing weed then that is a whole different matter). I calculated that if a simple 10W pump ran for 24/7, 365 days, it would amount to 87.6KW. I pay 20c for KW/h, so a yearly cost would be around 17.52$. The price of tomatoes at my local market is a little more than 1$ per kg. That means that simply to cover the usage cost of this one pump I need to grow more than 15kg. You can see why I'm not a fan of letting the pump work more than it needs to. Lol, I missed your meaning, when you said "making the box water tight " ,did you mean the timer box or the grow box? because in both cases I just use a discarded bucket/cereal box with some water proof glue on the lid. Ghetto to the max! And when you say “digital plug timers” you are referring to this type of thing?: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Digital-LCD-Display-24H-7day-Programmable-Timer-Electronic-Plug-Switch-110V-US-/361252796244 If so, then like the with my opening post, they have up to x powerons per day. Very annoying. , , , The second scenario you described is actually pretty nifty, but I fail to see the advantage if indeed rapid switching will burn out the pump. My case however is the common first scenario (mostly because of space constrictions (the sun is at the top)). I don't know if it is that 'rapid', but if the pump fills the bucket in 4 minutes (and turned off due to power conservation) and the drying occurs for another 11 mins- then we are talking about 90 cycles per day (I have no idea if that is a good growing practice, but speaking hypothetically). I took your warnings about the quick burnout to heart, but I'm not sure what's the alternative in an ebb-flow system (other than cycling it to 2 operations per hour). One thing I thought of changing is the placement of the pump. according to Kleeems explanation ,a partial cause for the failing is the column of water already present in the pipes, overloading at each start up. Seems like it can be solved by placing the pump in an upside fashion near the top... thanks guys.