Compression fittings are fully code compliant when installed in a non-concealed location. The copper supply piping in the wall is installed during the "stack out" phase of construction and at that time each fixture supply is stubbed out and capped. Later after all the walls are finished and the cabinets installed we do the final phase of the plumbing which is called the "trim out phase" which is when all the final fixtures are set in place. During Trim out the copper pipe stub outs are cut off and the line stops or angle stops are installed. Most plumbers, myself included, prefer to use the compression mounts for the line stops or angle stops because it eliminates any possibility of scorching a wall or cabinet which could result if we were to solder valves in place. The other advantage of compression mounted stop valves is that they can be very easily changed in future if the need should arise, although we constantly hear about people who run into problems here also. When a compression fitting is installed the compression nut is slipped onto the pipe first, then a brass compression ferrule is slipped on the pipe and the valve or fitting is then slid on the pipe until the pipe bottoms out in the fitting input port. With the fitting held firmly in place the compression nut and ferrule is then slid outwards towards the fitting and the nut is tightened in place on the fitting. Properly you should hold the valve or fitting steady with one wrench while tightening the nut with a second wrench. As the nut is tightened the compression ferrule is compressed into the wall of the copper pipe effecting a water tight seal. If it then becomes necessary to change the valve at a later time you hold the valve steady with a wrench while unscrewing the nut with a second wrench. Once the nut is off the valve the valve can be slid off the pipe. The nut and compression fitting will not slide off because the inside diameter of the compression ferrule is now slightly less than the outside diameter of the pipe on which it is installed. Rather than attempt to remove the nut and ferrule you remove the nut and ferrule from the new valve, slide the new valve on the pipe and tighten it in place with the existing nut and ferrule. In your case you have a small section of copper pipe in the basement that is leaking. You should not need to remove the valve or riser to the valve. Instead, you should be able to use a tubing cutter to cut out the bad section of copper in the basement and replace just that section by soldering in a new section of copper in place with a couple copper couplings.

Other than measuring, I'm not aware of "longer" replacement valves. Most people in this situation splice a piece of pipe as needed. It sounds like you are trying to avoid sweating a pipe though. You know, it wouldn't be terrible for you to learn to sweat the pipe. The cost of sharkbite valves would be far more than buying the torch, solder, pipe cleaner and flux. Buy a few "disposable" fittings to practice on before you do the real thing.

I can go to a plumbing supply place and get it. Right now I soldered on a female adapter that is threaded. I then attached a fitting that has the 3/8 inch male. Not sure if that is correct but it is temporary until I get the new cabinet installed. There is currently a union that I can take apart to remove the whole assembly. Thanks for the reply. Not sure why HD does not carry this since they have hundreds of other fittings.

I'm not sure that you can find a hose end connection of that type that is much shorter. If you don't want to try the other suggestions above, you would do better to find a hose that was less rigid. Refrigerator supply lines generally use small diameter hose, typically 1/4". Mine is 1/4" flexible copper that coils behind the refrigerator and doesn't cause the interference that your large diameter, semi-rigid hose does. They also make plastic hose for refrigerators in smaller diameters than what you have there. A hose as large as yours in this application is not that common.