Well, you can get it reglazed, but all the activities you list as liking it for will be risky with the new surface, which must be babied more than the original.

Oh crum! I can't really do a molding b/c there is a duplicate unit right across the doorway from it. I can't put a matching molding on the other unit b/c it is actually a tall broom-type cabinet (not a separate top and bottom unit). So a matching molding on it would look very strange. Nothing else in the kitchen has any kind of molding. Molding on just the defective unit would be so out of place. I think it would look odder than an eased edge. Rats, rats! Such a teeny problem. But such a big problem too! Thank you for the suggestions! Francy

thanks cny...I'm leaning towards no more stained glass too... this just came to me...after spending two days designing a stained glass piece. :( how about just a plain piece of glass insert, so that just the end of the shelves show and I can just display a few favorite pieces that I like,( that have sentimental value) such as the fruit girl and pasta boy we got on a trip to Italy. Here is a pic of our dvd cab, which is the same depth,and almost the same height and the glass is 2 1/2" wide as well... I would have the same side glass like this dvd cab with the oval top. I could have a wood panel behind the statuary so that the other stuff that I keep in the cabinet is not visable. this is a view from the front. Can you picture what I mean?

Late to the game but would echo the Waterlox idea. We have BB counters at the lake and have "experimented" with multiple finishes: 1) Our first try was satin urethane. Bulletproof, no maintenance, but even satin has the very glossy look of "plastic" and would seem to defeat the whole purpose of using reclaimed wood. Even on our BB counters it screams "fake" and I hated it. 2) Next, we went traditional with mineral oil. A huge PITA. Applied many many coats, laboriously worked them in, and the counter still stained at the first hint of wine, strawberries, grease etc. We also had some delamination which required repair, and I think that was in part due to the poor water repellency of the MO. I considered the beeswax/mineral oil approach but still felt it would be way too much trouble for less than ideal protection. I'd be even more concerned if we had used more "delicate" wood like yours as opposed to generic BB. 3) My "light bulb went off" moment. We had already done our floors in Waterlox and loved the look--totally natural wood with none of the plastic appearance of urethane. It's been four years and they are holding up great. Checked to confirm it was food safe and, having done so, sanded away and then used it on the counters. They look great and are totally stain repellent. Water beads up, unlike with MO. If you use the Satin finish after the initial coats of Sealer the final result will be quite matte. Waterlox is polymerized tung oil. It maintains many of the advantages of pure tung oil but to quote my definitive expert source (see below): "Polymerized tung and linseed oils dry faster, harder and are more durable than raw oils." Pure tung can take days to weeks to dry between coats. We didn't have that kind of time. And, on the subject of mineral oil: "Mineral oil is recommended for cutting boards. MO will not cure as it is a non-drying oil and will continually leach out with every washing, requiring periodic reapplication. It will also leave a mess on your countertops if you apply too much Ick! The problem with cutting boards is that you cut on them, so any type of film finish is pretty much out of the question." I do not cut directly on the BB counters. I'm careful to use cutting boards, mainly for sanitation purposes (I can throw them in the DW, as opposed to having to try and scrub down countertops after raw meat exposure, for example). Therefore a film-forming finish like tung makes sense for my purposes. BTW: I have been cautioned rightfully in the past to warn folks with nut allergies that there is at least a theoretical risk of reaction to tung oil based products including Waterlox. Though, as I said then, given the consumption of peanut butter in our household, anyone with a real allergy would anaphylax just walking into the kitchen. Here's my source: Incredibly detailed, extremely useful discussion by SteveRussel of oil finishes for wood