Sooey: Many decorator fabrics come off the roll with the top of the pattern going across the roll (selvage to selvage). However there are others where the pattern is railroaded, a decorating term referring to a pattern that goes along the length of the roll. For projects where a long piece of fabric is needed, a railroaded pattern will yield a continuous piece, eliminating the need to match designs at a seam.

Take a look at your fabric from all angles (and maybe ask a friend to do the same). If you can't tell up from down, left from right, then you can chose to cut it either way.

If your valance will be wider than the width of your decorator fabric (less seam allowances), then if the pattern permits, it would be easier if you cut along the length of the fabric. This would eliminate needing to pattern match at a seam.

Good luck. Post a picture when you're done and let us admire your finished project!

June

you'd get more lenth by the selvage edge being your seamed sides...

My question...does the pattern run across the fabric from salvege to salvege or does it run the length of the bolt?

It can be either direction...or both. And just to confuse the issue even more, if the designer fabric is a "second", the pattern may be "off". I've found that the best thing to do is find a space large enough to roll out the entire piece of fabric to examine it and then determine which way I want to cut it. I've seen some very interesting configurations in the last few years. I don't know whether it's an industry wide problem lately or not but it's definitely been a challenge in some cases. If the pattern is obscure enough, it doesn't matter too much but it's driven me bonkers in a couple of instances. ;-)

HTH

Anne

To help determine the grain take a small piece and try sewing from both directions, there's usually always a grain and some time this sewing test will let you know that.

Hi Kids,

Thanks for all your input. I will unroll the fabric again tomorrow, see what I think. I would like to end up with no seams showing. I will also be adding inverted pleats which is where any seams will go but not having to worry about them in the first place would be a plus.

ravencajun - good tip on the grain.

I'll let you know how it all works out and I will try to get some pictures. I tried to find the fabric on line so I could include a link to it, but it has been discontinued.

Thanks again, Kids. You have given me lots to think about.

sooey

makes my store bought seem shabby, lol...love to see a picture of the fabric...

You might want to check for how the light hits it, too, so that you don't have a problem if you accidentally flip one piece when you're seaming it. You know what I mean? Like if this was the pattern-
///////--- and if you sewed this to it---\\\\\\\\ it could look really weird. That can happen if you don't see a distinct pattern in the fabric.

Good luck!

That's a really good piece of advice, Flamingo. I made that mistake many moons ago and I had been working with a very limited supply of a discontinued fabric. Imagine my discontent when I noticed what I'd done. SCREECH!!!

Anne

Drapery pro here. If what you have is a printed drapery fabric it will run "across the roll", or selvage to selvage. The only drapery fabrics that run "up the roll", or are railroaded, are wide sheers, embroideries, and some silks. Fabrics that can't or shouldn't be seamed. It's more common for upholstery fabrics to be railroaded.

Then comes the issue of grain. Some drapery fabrics will be okay if they're cut up the roll. Others will never hang right, because of the way they're woven. Don't risk your fabric by cutting them essentially sideways. Cut across, especially since you will hide your seams inside pleats. If your matching is a tiny bit off, only you will know.

Tip of the day: Check the selvage of your fabric. Most printed fabrics have arrows already printed on them to show which end is up. If yours doesn't, or you need to cut off puckered selvages before cutting, chalk mark an up arrow on the back of each piece as you cut. No risk of turning a piece upside down. I even do that with solids, because all fabrics have a definite direction that must be maintained.

Another thing to remember: Cut the fabric lengths along the print, always starting in the same place. Start from the hem, and calculate so that there is a full motif running consistently across the bottom. In other words, the most prominent leaf or berry or whatever should never be folded in half. It doesn't matter nearly as much what happens across the top.

Sorry if this is more information than you need. Can you tell I'm pretty passionate (read: anal) about drapery making? LOL!!!

My Grandmother taught me to sew, beginning with hand-sewing doll clothes. She taught me to match seams. She told me all fabric has a "nap", you can feel it by running your hand over it lightly, all four ways. You want the light to strike the smoothest surface, so that's how you'll place the design. And, yes, it can be either selvedge to selvedge or the long way of the bolt. Hope this helps. I haven't sewn anything in about ten years. There was a time, in high school, when I sewed all my clothes. Even made my first husband a light-weight jacket.

I am so impressed with all the talent on this forum! This is way over my head. LOL

Georgysmom, I was thinking the same thing! There is so much knowledge and expertise here!

I'm impressed, too. Big bunch of smarties! :)

Thanks, Anne.

Hi Kids,

Wow...I am so impressed with all the knowledge here at the KT! Thank you all for your advice and hints. You ROCK!
I think I know what I am doing but I need to figure out a few things before I make that first cut.

Woodsy, you are 100% correct, the pattern does go from edge to edge and working with it in that manner will insure an even hang to/in the final valance. Also good advice in thinking through the placement of pattern in the final piece...no major pattern should be foulded into the hem. Knowing that I need to work within the repeat of pattern is one reason I have yet to make that first cut. I have 4 yards of fabric 54" x 144" and need to cut at least 4, 54" x 22.5" strips. The repeat it 18", I have plenty of fabric.

Now, another question. I will be adding inverted pleats to the valances. I have two windows, a single and a double. The finished valance for the single window will be about 45", I will place one pleat in the center of that valance. My double window is made up of two single windows giving me a finished valance of about 85" in length. Do I put a pleat in the center of each window or do I put one in the center of each window and one in the center of the total run giving me three pleats? Any advice on that one?

I should also add that these valances will be stapled to 3.5 boards which are supported by L brackets over the windows. Only a few seams involved.

I want all of you to know just how much I value your input. Having all of you at the ready helps me think it though. Sometimes I picture all of us working through projects like this in a church basement. Lots of smart women, each bringing their experiences and inherited knowledge and having a good time. I can smell the coffee now. Thanks, Kids.

sooey

Sooey, I just saw this!

I think I understand what you're saying. Your double windows are close enough to double the size of the single which makes it easy. You're putting a pleat in the center of the single, so you should definitely have a pleat in the double where the windows join as well as the center of the windows themselves. Total of 3 on the double, correct? The thing is, you want the flat parts (not pleats) to be pretty equal in size for the best look.

Talking pleats, are you putting pleats on the corners as well? It makes for a better look, and it's much easier to turn that tight corner on the board.

Gosh, I have pics on this machine somewhere of a very similar valance I made for DSG3's nursery. I'm on my way out, but I'll try to dig them up later!

Hi Woodsy,

I am so happy to have your input into my project, thank you.

Yes, the double window is really two single windows, side by side giving the apperance of a larger window. These windows are Anderson, 8 over 8, double hung, 36" x 49". Living room is small so even with the double window being on the front of the house and the single window being on the side of the house, the windows are still close to eachother.

I think I understand what you are saying about the need for balance in placing the pleats. I was thinking more of the even/odd issue, that being, 3 gives a better visual than does two. The idea of a pleat on each corner had crossed my mind. What is the best way to accomplish that? I figured that I would need 10" of fabric per pleat. Does that hold true for a pleat on a corner? If I put pleats on the corners that would give better balance. The double would have 5 pleats, the single would have 3. I was also thinking of adding one or two covered buttons toward the top of each pleat but that can be decided at a later point...one step at a time.

Thanks again, Woodsy. I appreciate all of your help, time and consideration.

sooey

I found the pictures. As you can see mine had to turn the corner, but the concept is basically the same. Although the flat faces of the valances aren't the same width, it's important to the visual that the pleats line up with the window breaks. The center pleat looks off due to the angle of the picture. In reality, it lines up perfectly.

On to the mechanics. My pleats are buttoned back into a tent flap, but they're basic inverted pleats. In your case I would recommend 12" for the pleats if possible. That would give you a more substantial depth than 10" would.

The corners are easy to do. Calculate the width so that the fold is directly on the corner. A little tip: sand off the hard edge on the corner of your board to soften it. Just a tiny bit, maybe 1/16". It will keep the sharp corner from splitting the pleat. Don't pull too tight when you turn the corner. Leave a little ease and your pleat will lay nicely. Here's a closeup of the corner during construction:

It sounds like you're on the right track. You don't have to keep thanking me. This is fun! If you have any more questions, ask away!

Oh My Goodness Woodsy...that valance it adorable! When I saw those pictures I was so impressed, you are indeed a pro! I love the contrasting fabric in the pleats and the way you have them buttoned/tented. I also like the use of three fabrics. Did you use a board or are those on a 3" rod? Cute as can be!

Seeing your pictures and how you used the contrasting fabric to form the pleats made me want to change my plan and do something similar. Now I am thinking that the addition of another fabric may be a bit much for my windows. These windows get east/south east exposure so I also have sheers at the windows to help controll the sun. Adding another fabric may be visual overload.

I think I have it mostly worked out in my head so the first cut of fabric could come at any moment...really, any moment. Yesterday, my husband walked through the dining room where I have my work set up. He saw me looking at the fabric which was unrolled and across the table, yet again. He came over to me and said...'ya know...at some point you really do need to pick up the sissors and make that first cut'... Yes, dear.

sooey