Sorry to sound a discordant note, but I personally don't like the French doors at all. I think an arch would be perfect. From the kitchen, the doors seem unnecessary, but more importantly, they would interfere with light unless you added the sidelights, which, as several folks have said, will look pretty busy IRL. But it's the view from the FR that really makes me dislike the doors. Sometimes it's easy to overlook the obvious, and here, the obvious is the fact that you'll have wall after wall after wall of French doors. Together they form an overwhelming block of glass and muntins and frames and grid shapes, with no easy way to soften them (these aren't windows and won't have soft, poofy window treatments). I think they could look even odder IRL. Either you'll have a shade or something on the patio door, and nothing on the others, or you'll leave all three doors nude, which will give you one black door at night and two others that have indoor light behind them. They will look similar, but wrong. Plus, in reality, I find that people actually keep interior french doors closed far less often than they think they will. I think the arch avoids some of these problems. It pierces that corner so that the FR won't feel so much like an isolated addition or a 3-season porch that's been tarted up--instead, it would be connected to the house. And having the curved arch lets you break up that infinite repetition of rectilinear grid, grid, grid without having to add anything. Finally, it will connect the FR and the kitchen with the rest of the house architecturally by repeating a motif you already have. Sorry to add confusion--just my $.02!

A few people have suggested I try a different shape or proportion. What about the Wolf Pro Wall Chimney hood to go with my Wolf range? (I can get a deal on a floor model.) It is more substantial than the Best hood (the Best pyramid has a total height of 11â including the 2â lip & the chimney cover is 12-3/4â wide; the Wolf pyramid has a total height of 18â including the 4â lip & the chimney cover is 24â wide). Some of you have suggested a hood with some curve. The Wolf has a curved lip, which I think looks good in person, although that may not be what you meant. I donâÂÂt have enough paper left to mock this one up.

There are a few factors to consider: 1) The "recommended" and/or the "required" height of the hood you want according to the hood manufacturer. Some will say "must be in x to y inch range above the range". Some will say "recommended height is x to y inches above the range and going above that is up to the user/installer". Check the installation instructions, not just their brochures. The installation instructions will sometimes be more specific, especially considering the "recommended" versus the "must". The 10" tall hoods usually have a lower recommended mounting height such as 24-27" or 24-30" above the range. You will find some that will allow you to go as high as 36" above the range. The 18" tall pro hoods usually have a larger range to work with, such as 24-36" or 30-36" above the range. 2) Recommended and or required ranges of hood height above the range according to the range manufacturer IF they have any specifics. The depth of the particular hood you want. Most "pro-style wall mount" hoods will be of the 18" tall variety and be 24" or 27" (more rare) deep. Most "pro-style under-cabinet" hoods will be of the 9" to 10" tall variety and 19" to 22" deep. Height of the individual(s) using the range on a regular basis compared to the front edge of the hood based on depth and install height. If the only cook is 4' 10" tall, you can mount your hood at 24" above the hood (60" above the floor) and clearance should not be an issue. (Sidenote: Mounting a hood at 24" above a high btu pro range, may conflict with the requirements of the range, which may say minimum hood height is 30" above the range top. 24" is not much room if you have some big flare-ups. That could be hazardous!). If the regular cook is 5' 11" tall, then mounting a 24" deep hood at 24 inches above the range (60" total above the floor) or 30 inches above the range (66" total above the floor) can be an issue as the front edge of the hood is right in your face. Going to 36" above the range (72" above the floor) would be more comfortable and easier to use. Remember, you're talking about a pretty deep hood, not an over-the-range microwave which is about 16" deep and isn't right in one's face. 5) Overall look you're going for based on: - Ceiling height - Do cabinets go to ceiling or is there a space above them? - Mounting height of hood above range (24" to 36"). - Top of hood based on mounting height above range and height of particular hood. - How much space is left above top of hood for cabinets and crown (if you're installing crown), or how much space is left if you're not installing a cabinet, but instead go the route of installing a hood extension, so all you see is stainless all the way to the ceiling, a chase, etc. If you have 8' (96") tall ceilings and let's say you do the following: - Install hood at 36" above the range (bottom of hood is at 72" above floor) - Install a hood that is 18" tall puts the top of that hood at 90" above the floor. - You have 6" left for either a cabinet, which honestly doesn't even leave room for a cabinet, or for a hood extension up to the ceiling which is probably a better option using this scenario. - To answer your question on will the 18" look "massive". In this scenario, if you install a 6" cabinet (or really just an upper rail) above the hood, I think it will look massive, out of place. If you use an extension it may look better. If you installed the hood a bit lower and had a bit more room for cabinets above the hood, it might look better (cabinet height to hood height ratio). Same scenario with 8' tall ceilings but: - Install a hood at 30" above the range (bottom of hood is at 66" above the floor) - Install a hood that is 10" tall puts the top of that hood at 76" above the floor). - You have 20" left for a cabinet, which is much more workable and the ratio of cabinet height to hood height (20" to 10") might please you more. If you have taller ceilings...9', 10', etc....you have more room above the range, hood, etc to work with. 6) Electrical issues. Is this an existing situation where the electrical outlet for the hood is already there? Is it possible that might create a conflict with what you want to do now? Are you willing to move it? Conflicts are more likely to occur if you install a new, taller hood and install it at a taller height above the range. The outlet might need to be raised to be above the top of the new hood (in the cabinet or hidden by the hood extension). If it's new construction, that's easier to set at the appropriate height based on the hood and height you choose. Just some thoughts since I've been going through the same decision making issues lately. I would recommend, just drawing an elevation of it on a piece of paper, so you can visualize the #"s. Good luck.

Do you think the single lever faucet will visually “fill up” the space enough with a 33” wide sink? I think you're over thinking it. :) You're not trying to "fill up" the space with the faucet. Think about it, there are people who have 48 inch wide sinks. Yet they still use the same faucet you're struggling with. ;) As far as double lever/double knob, that's really personal preference. Pick the one you like!