You have a ton of questions and I will do my best to address them, I also have AADD so if I start to ramble and jump back and forth just overlook that :). We need to simplify this more because there are certain issues you can't change..... being on a slab and the weight issues. Any slab has to be reasonably flat and dry, but in your case it needs to be almost dead flat and dry. We are supposed to always check slabs for vapor emissions that can go unoticed when there is carpet over top that allows the slab to breath and release moisture without any problems. You have an 18yr. old glued down wood floor that has exhibited no problems, in my view that is as good an indicator one is going to get..... so we'll just say you are dry. I don't know how many sq.ft. is involved but it takes some space for an installer to check the slab for flatness and then take measures to correct it. Sometimes a low spot can be a few feet in diameter and with the feathering needed I may need 6', 8' or more to deal with it. If I don't have space I could be featuring up to a high spot underneath furniture. It is best to try and figure a way to go one room a time, clean it out, then go on to the next room. If you have your heart set on an engineered BC, then get it :), life is too short to fret over that as long as you know about this issue and are okay with it. On glued down floors the thickness does not really matter as much as opposed to floating. What does matter is the top wear layer thickness and using the right adhesive. A 3mm or 4mm thick wear layer is actually better in the long run as a 5mm thick . Going too thick with the wear layer can cause a phenomenon called "dry cupping" .... the NWFA and NOFMA are aware of this and it is being addressed. If you go with a glued down engineered wood floor and want to put on a sealer as "insurance" , then do it. In your case I would strongly consider using Stauf 960 which is a quality sealer and adhesive combined in one application. You pay alot more for the adhesive but you only have one labor issue. Imo you could also go with a floating floor. But to pull this off you must use a quality product and (here I go again)..... the concrete must be flat. There is a laminate out there that I have personally installed that is almost bullet proof. That would be Wilsonart , which is a high pressure laminate referred to as an HPL. Putting that down along with using their blue fusion glue in the joinery can take any weight you want to put on top of it. When I do that I recommend to the client upgrading the underlayment to a product Sound Solutions. You cannot walk on this type of install and tell that it floats. You could also go with a floating engineered wood... this is where thickness comes into play. I prefer to use nothing less than a 1/2" in thickness and a where the joints get glued up, or, choose a good reliable click-lock system like the valinge or Uniclic joinery systems. They both hold together well. The wood should also be waht is called balanced.... the top layer equals the bottom. You are very typical of alot of my clients. Quit stressing so much :).

I really don't like Anjou Pear but I am not a yellow-green fan. Have you considered something really different fro the yellow like a blue? If you're tired of yellow why not really go for a change. Our home office has BM Mexicana, a deep rich red. It's a strong color so we did accent walls with the other 2 walls in mascarpone (warm white). It is my husband's office, I don't work at home - he likes deep reds. I personally love blue-grays and blues the best, I can see a nice blue or blue gray looking great in your office! We used BM Wedgewood gray in our bedroom which has east facing windows, and I adore it. It's so soothing and spa-like, not sure if that's what you want for an office but perhaps a more energetic version of blue or blue gray. This is shortly after we moved in - with nothing on the walls yet, but it shows the color well. We have Ikea natural linen curtains which glow nicely and diffuse the light.

Here is what I am working with. Thank you!

Flo I appreciate the time your spending with me. Okay so to answer some of your questions Yes, looking into the room from French doors the registers are on the left wall and the windows are on opposite side. I also realized I’m even more limited in space due to the French doors swinging inside the room by about 15”. I really do only have 2 solid walls at 123” long to work with. We just got rid of our 1990’s L shaped office set up which was set up in that ideal L shaped corner but would love to switch it up and be able to look out my windows when working. Speaking of working, I do work from home with my business and my husbands side business is also run from our home office as well so it gets lots of use. I need space for typical daily office supplies so looking to have adequate storage. Now the calendar wall idea was to replace those plastic calendars with a 50”w x 36h” piece of acrylic to use as a dry erase calendar with some standoffs. I would have space underneath that on the floor for a lateral file cabinet. I did think the desk was a bit too big but trying to convince hubby to change it. He’s a work in progress right now :-)