Don't know what kind of bin you're referring to, since you didn't provide any information about the make or brand. Assuming that it is the 'rotating' kind on a stand, the recommendation refers to the procedure to attain a proper MIXING of 'ingredients' before adding more - because adding too much to the rotating-type bin at one time, will cause difficulty in attainting a complete mix of materials. Sounds like the material previously added into the bin were deficient in green (nitrogen) materials which later were added to the bin via fresh grass clippings. In that case, you were 'lucky', due to insufficient moisture in the original mixture - which was added with the green (not aged) grass clippings). Grass clippings should be 'aired' (spread-out) at no more than 12" deep) for at least 24 hours (and 3 days is the recommended time) before adding to a 'rotating' bin enclosure/containment to avoid anaerobic conditions (slimey mess) in the bin. Recommended ratio of 'brown' (carbon) materials to 'green' (nitrogen) materials is between 20:1 to 30:1 depending on who is making the recommendation. By weight, not volume. Agree with kqcrna - my preference is to fill the rotating container in one session - 6" deep layer (in the middle of the round bin) at a time, then rotate/mix at least 30 SLOW revolutions - then add more and rotate/mix again. IF the grass clippings are properly 'aged' (i.e., heaped to make a ground pile initially), then used that pile in the bin next, while making another pile with mowed clippings to 'age' for a week or two - then the grass clippings are ALL you need to produce good compost for a garden or flower bed as mulch (surface) or amendment (turned-under soil). Sufficiently 'aged' grass will have a very good carbon-to-nitrogen (C:N) ration all by itself - if it has been properly fertilized and watered prior to mowing. Reach in and grab a handful of what's in the bin. Look at it. Smell it. Squeeze it. If it's not turning brown, or doesn't smell 'earthy' and if water drips out from your clenched fist - make approptiate adjustment. The mixture should be 'damp' but no water should drip out. Contrary to opinion of some folks, manure and leaves are NOT absolutely necessary ingredients to make quality compost - but I always use both, when available. Better, yes - but not essential. But DO remember to add a shovel-full of previous fresh FINISHED compost to the next batch -or if a first-time mix, add a shovel-full of the 'best' dirt (excluding woody mulch) in your bin - to add microbe populations to begin with. Compost leafy materials, not 'woody' (cellulose/lignin) materials. No oil, no meat (fish is OK)., and no bones. Those encourage population shifts of the WRONG microbes to produce quality compost. IF you started with kitchen scraps and 'other stuff' initially, chances are that the microbes that decompose organic material were simply in very short supply to begin with - and even with proper levels of air/food/water, it takes awhile (3-5 days) for microbe populations to expand sufficntly to make a difference you can see. Particularly thermophyllic fungi, which cause a sufficient mass of organic material to heat up (which are naturally present in fresh grass clippings). They need a high content of sugars and carbohydrates (+ air and water) for their population to 'explode' sufficiently to produce a significant heat (130F is about the maximum temperature you can expect from a 'rotating-type' bin due to its limited biomass). DO buy/use a compost thermometer. Recommend you read some information authored by Malcom Beck, considered the "King of Compost". I don't agree with everything he writes - but then, only idiots do. He writes for the masses. I'm writing only to you. Become self-educated about composting techniques. Experiment and learn what works for YOU. Basically, there are only 6 items necessary to produce a high quantity of quality compost: 1) microbe populations; 2) air (oxygen) for microbe survival; 3) food for microbe growth; 4) water for microbe reproduction; 5) your time and 6) your energy. Provide those things in sufficient quantity with efficient timing and you'll produce quality (% humus content and high plant nutrition level) every batch. There are basically two composting techniques: 1) continuous-add (CA) method and 2) finish-to-harvest (FH) method. CA keeps the pile 'warm' after initial heat, and FH allows mesophyllic organisms to 'finish' the pile (don't add any more ingredients) - which maximizes humus (carbon) production. In science, HUMUS is defined as the product resulting from decompositon that will NO LONGER decompose. Some humus has been found to be over 3,000 years old. I've been composing for over 50 years and am a certified Master Gardener and certified rainwater harvest professional. I recommend rainwater for compost - because to the degree you add chlorinated water to compost - is the degree that you kill composting organisms and defeat your purpose for composting. Chlorine is an VERY effective microbe killer - which is why city muncipal water systems use it to disinfect public water - which is usually downstream of an upstream city's pollution. DO collect compost 'tea' - even from watering your rotating bin material. It's "liquid fertilizer" and chock full of beneficial microbes for your soil.

Thanks - since I'm cutting this in 3rd, it didn't take too long to chop 1 quart of cukes and 1/3C of onion. I had some serranos so minced 1/3C of those, added 1/4C salt and 4C water to my 8C Pyrex and an off now to pick a few sweet peppers (alas no red ones and I forgot to stop at the store last night when I was in town). Once I get those chopped up and in there I'll add the ice. I forgot to cut the water in 3rds b/c I didn't write it down so put in 4C instead of 2 2/3C so I hope that extra 1 1/3C for the soak doesn't cause a problem. Should I use less ice (4/3C = 1 1/3C, use just 1 C or enough to cover the top so the salt isn't TOO diluted) and stick it in the fridge? Add more salt (3/4C to 8C water, divided in half is 3/8C to 4C water minus the 1/4C I put in so add 1/8C more salt)?

YEP! what are you going to do with a newbie! We will answer your questions and convert you to a tomato fan. (grin) While it seems that many of the people on this forum grow heirlooms, we aren't going to toss you out if you grow hybrids. But most of us will think you are missing out on the fun and satisfaction of growing future generations of your tomatoes (and peppers and other heirlooms & open pollinated veggies and flowers) from seeds that you harvested and saved. Plus there is the fun of trading and collecting seeds (for the first year that may be buying, borrowing or saving from produce purchased at farmer's markets or other placed that carry NAMED heirloom's.) There are always some pushers growers that are willing to hook help you on heirlooms. Before too long you will be pushing sharing with other unsuspecting novices. SCENE 1: The local coffee shop. Tomato Fan: "Hey want to try some really amazing tomatoes? They are so good. You eat these and you will feel so good. Really, they are so delicious! And they have a history. I have some Brandywine and some Mortgage Lifter seeds. And I can get you some MariannaÂs Peace if you want them, they used to be the most expensive tomato seed in the world!" Tomato FanÂs table mate: "Well, I suppose I could try one, I do have a sunny spot in my yard that I could put it in. Tomato Fan: "Yeah, thatÂs great! That is the way I started, with just one heirloom." SCENE 2: A busy street corner just after last frost. Tomato Fan: (to man passing by) "Hi! Would you like to by an heirloom tomato plant?" Man: "No thanks, I donÂt have time or a place for a tomato plant. And if I did, IÂd want a new one, not an old tomato." Tomato Fan: (Laughs lightly) "Oh, heirlooms are old in their history, but the tomatoes are as fresh as can be when you pick them yourself and so much better than store bought. And they can be grown in biggish pots on your porch or patio, you just have to water them." Man: "Well, I donÂt knowÂ.." Tomato Fan: "Try one, youÂll love it! And it will help me out so I can buy some more seed envelopes and Â. Stuff." Man: "Ok, I will take one." Tomato Fan: (Giggles to herself and thinks "Another one hooked.") SCENE 3: Months later in a darkened alley. Tomato Fan: "Psssst! Hey buddy, yeah, you. Got any heirlooms ta sell or trade?" Unsuspecting bystander: "Get away from me you crazy gardener!" Bets

So the main thing is to do some research (ok alot of research!) to make sure you do what is best for you and you get the best deal! One element of that is checking out the company offering the warranty (it's not the dealer and it's not the car manufacturer). Find out if they're on decent financial footing so you can expect that they'll be around for your 100,000 miles. If a third-party warranty company goes under, so does your coverage unless some other company is kind enough to pick up your coverage. Expensive and "racy" cars cost much more to insure than a family car not only because they are more expensive but because more people take risks with them. Some companies charge more for a red car, regardless of the style of car, because red cars get pulled over more often and people who may own a red car take more risks (think red sports car) You might be really surprised at which cars cost a lot more to insure. Nissan's Maxima -- not hugely expensive or racy -- costs a minor fortune to insure because of the special headlights the car has. They cost more than a thousand dollars per pair and thieves know how easy it is to pry them out of the car and use them on their own cars. And the cars stolen most frequently include older models of such relatively inexpensive family-mobiles as the Honda Accord and Toyota Camry because there are so many of them out there that there is a good market for the parts the stolen car yields. Fortunately for owners of most of those cars, the loss experience of the drivers of those cars makes up at least some for the attractiveness of the parts.