Fridge--side wall or no side wall?
I need your advice on whether or not to order a side wall to go around my refrigerator. I know for sure that I want an upper cabinet so that it wonÂt look like itÂs just plunked in the corner with no home, but I canÂt decide about the side wall.
Here is a computer rendering of an arial view of my kitchen spaceÂnote the drawing is a little off, the wall to the left of the fridge extends past the front of the fridge several feet:
In our slightly remodeled space, the refrigerator will be moved as shown into a small breakfast nook just off the kitchen. We are removing the tiny wall separating the kitchen and the nook to create one room. To help you visualize, here is where the fridge used to be:
You can see the breakfast nook in the background.
HereÂs another computer rendering of the nook once the fridge is in place:
I have been getting conflicting advice from the three contractors who came in for estimates. Two recommended no side wall, one was very much for the side wall.
My concerns are as follows:
1. If I do not have a side wall, will the fridge look like it doesnÂt have a "home?"
2. We have a stainless fridge with black sides. Will the black look too dark against the white cabinets and light wallsÂwould it look better to have the black sides more covered?
3. Our fridge is 33" wide and a future owner might have a wider fridge. I know I could order a wider upper cabinet to accommodate a wider fridge in the future, but how to decide how much wider to make it?
4. The breakfast nook room is really not very big. Overall, it is about 5 ½ feet by 5 ½ feet, so the fridge does take up a bunch of that room. Will having a side wall make it seem like it is overtaking the space?
Also, I seem to remember thoughts people had about depth of the upper cabinet, but now I cannot find those postings. Any advice on that would also be appreciated. Thank you!
Comments (18)
longislandinnj
16 years agohomey_bird
16 years agoRelated Discussions
Bulging Brick Wall (built 1901) in Brooklyn (side wall)
Comments (4)Although some masonry contractors are very knowledgeable they have widely varying levels of expertise. Since you have no consensus, I would get a structural engineer to evaluate it. I too have a brick/brownstone rowhouse in Brooklyn. Although old brick does absorb moisture to some extent, stucco and/or waterproofing over brick is unnecessary unless your interior walls are getting moisture damage. Otherwise, brick should be left exposed to release the moisture. Stucco and waterproofing often create a moisture problem with your interior walls by trapping moisture in the brick which can't evaporate. Pointing is not going to do a thing for a bulging wall. You may need pointing if the cement is missing/crumbling but that's a separate issue. It's not unheard of that side walls fail to the point of needing to be rebuilt and you might need to do that but consult at least one engineer to determine whether something something less extensive will work. If you need to rebuild, get at least 3 prices for the job and check references. Just curious: Re the contractor who wanted $8500 for pointing, how many and what size walls would he be pointing for that much. And how much did he want to rebuild 1 story of 1 side wall ? I think you need to keep getting opinions until at least 2 of them match....See MoreFridge side wall question
Comments (2)If the hinge side of the refrigerator is against a wall or other obstruction and the refrigerator is not a built-in that's designed for such a situation, then you will need to do one of two things: Install a 12" wide cabinet b/w the wall and the refrigerator to provide room for the refrigerator to open fully for both access and cleaning. Shorten the wall so it is no deeper than the carcass (box) of the refrigerator. This will allow the door to open into the doorway and will allow the refrigerator to be opened fully. Any obstruction (cabinet, wall, counter, etc.) adjacent to the refrigerator should be no deeper than the carcass of the refrigerator - the doors must stick out past the obstruction(s). In our case, we reduced the wall next to the refrigerator to 24" so we would not need to put a 12" cabinet b/w the wall and the refrigerator. We also "built-in" the refrigerator for a more custom look by: Installing 3/4" side panels on either side of the refrigerator (no deeper than the refrigerator carcass) Installing a full-depth (24" deep) cabinet above the refrigerator. Here are a couple of pics: Here is a link that might be useful: How to install a built-in refrigerator...See MoreStacked or side-by-side wall ovens and help with kitchen layout.
Comments (7)I have some similar elements that you are navigating so I can tell you what I decided on. I too was short on counter space (though you seem to have a lot). I agree w/ whoever said to talk to a designer. I actually also got the Miele XXL plumbed combo steam oven and 30" M-Touch Oven. I put the 30" oven under the 36" cooktop, figuring I would use the steam oven most of the time and that the bigger oven would be for more rare big gatherings. I put a full size drawer below the steam oven and had the steam oven end about 42" AFF (6" above counter height so I could do a coffee maker above that w/ a cabinet at 5' AFF). I was able to do more of the typical triangle w/ my layout, not sure how you would do that but don't love the cooktop being off on its own. I did cooktop above oven in center. 24" of countertops on either side w/ drawers below and then on one side the steam oven, followed by a 24" full size wine fridge and on the opp side a 30" fridge followed by 18" freezer. This allowed same 48" on either side for symetry, as well as functionality. Across from all of this is an island (like your idea) w/ the sink facing the oven, etc. The counter space is less than ideal but w/ a big island right there there is plenty of work space btw the two. Good luck....See MoreWall switch for either side of a wall
Comments (22)I think if you remove the plate for the switch at the bottom of the stairs and see if you can do. If the box is attached to a stud on one side, enlarge the mounting hole on the other side to accommodate a double box. I suggest you do the examination, then go to the hardware store to buy the box, making sure you get one which will fit. Is the wiring NM (Romex), or metallic?...See Moregreenandgold
16 years agoBuehl
16 years agolynninnewmexico
16 years agotry_hard
16 years agogwent
16 years agoUser
16 years agoglad
16 years agoi went from no wall and 12"d o/h cabinet to boxed in/24"d cabinet and it was the right decision. even though it is not cab-depth and sticks out a bit from the box. i used the measurements for the cab depth one i'll probably replace it with eventually. it nneeds a 3" cab, while mine would technically fit in a 30" cabinet; it looks fine. also consider that the next fridge could be taller as well as wider when you do your measuring.
glad
16 years agoabbycat9990
16 years agosnowyshasta
16 years agofnzzy
16 years agomalhgold
16 years agobungalowdawn
16 years agobungalowdawn
16 years agosherilynn
16 years ago
skypathway