I have a corgi and they nip alot too.
To stop my one boy from nipping I would turn around and tell him "no!!!" and then walk away and ignore him. He would nip me on the calves to get my attention. I knew he was nipping me to get my attention so I did the opposite of what he wanted. It didn't take long for him to realize that was NOT the way to get my attention.

If your guy is nipping while playing, tell him "NO!" when it happens and stop playing.

I realize this may be hard with a larger dog but you need him to know he should not be doing this.

What happens if you put the bitter apple bottle down? Do you think he woudl see you don't have it and commence his nipping behavoir again? I think I would worry about that. Some dogs are sneaky and smart!

Sorry I can't help you much with the jumping problem. I am not sure how to fix that.

Questions - How much training does he get aside from walking? How much walking does he get? Does he get any other outside time other than the walks you give him? How far are the walks you give him?
Suggestions - start off outside time by playing frisbee or have him chase a ball for a half an hour BEFORE taking him on a walk. A tired dog is much easier to train than one that is hyper.
An easier way to keep him from nipping is to really over-react when saying NO, make it a loud No, as deep and as serious as you can, you dont need to tackle your dog and hold him to the ground. Although this is an effective way to get your dog to resist, it is time consuming and is like using an UZI in stead of a fly swatter to kill a fly.
Are you communicating with your dog effectively? Are you using verbal commands and letting your dog know what it is you want from him, or are you reacting to his behavior and just letting him know what it is you dont want him to do??
So many people are affective in the correcting a dog, but not in telling him what it is we want. Remember dogs dont speak our language, and it is up to us to help them understand in a gentle but firm way what it is we want from them. As far as your dog jumping up on you while your walking, I suggest, before you walk to play, and then go get the dogs leash and collar if it is not already on. Make your dog sit, he should be in a calm sitting position, hook up the leash and make him sit at the door or gate if you are outside, open the gate, make him wait, you go through first, make him sit and wait until you close up. When you walk, let the first couple of minutes be for sniffing, scratching and doing his business. Then go on a serious walk, pick up the pace a bit, and have your dog not pull you. Since you have a retriever, a ball or stick might help your dog concentrate on something other than you. No more sniffing busheds every couple of seconds - just straight out walking, 45 minutes is what I recommend, and it sounds like your dog is just warming up at that point. If you have a nearby pond, pool or other body of water you can play fetch with your dog and let him swim and play before you go for a walk - the better your walk is going to be. When your dog starts to turn towards you to jump on you, the second you see him slow or stop to turn, redirect him, say NO JUMP, lets walk, and keep on walking yourself, and ignore his attempts to guide you.
More work on sit, stay, down, leave it, will also help while out on a walk. Make your dog wait for his food, in a sitting position, reward him for being calm.

You need a shorter leash. 2 or 3 feet MAX. Please don't use a flexi lead. Sometimes people forget to reward GOOD behavior. Fill your pocket with treats, and when he's walking nicely -even for a minute- reward him. A lot at first, then fade.

When he jumps on you, turn around, fold your arms and IGNORE him.

Wrestling or holding him down is attention and reward for his behavior. Aside from that, dogs aren't trained well with physical force.

Reward GOOD behavior always with a new dog. When you see him being calm, treat him. Walking nicely, treat him. NOT jumping, treat him. Catch him doing something good, and the unacceptable behavior must be ignored (turn away no eye contact) until it fades away.

I appreciate your suggestions, but I must have not been too clear, and I am afraid that some of the responses as well thought out as they are, are presuming too much.

Blaze wants to play. He has free access to the outdoors and can come and go as he pleases. When he jumps on me, his arms are around my waist, and he tries to nip at my arms or hands. If I turn my back, he will continue to jump, and try to play.

45 minute walks would be great, but we must build up to them. I understand the training since we have just completed it, and have completed it with numerous dogs.

Today when I walked him, I tried a new philosophy. I put on my carpenter apron, and had treats and bitter apple spray in it. When he first jumped up to me, I anticipated the jump, yelled "no" and sprayed him in the mouth. He does not like that. He did it a second time, and so did I. After that as I anticipated the jump, I pulled out the bottle, and he continued to walk. A few times during the walk, we stopped, he sat, and I gave him a treat. These two things seemed to work well.

He has a regular leash, but I hold him right next to the neck - almost where the Gentle Lead hooks to the leash. I have the leash wrapped around the other hand.

Have any of you had a truly strong willed alpha dog? He is not this way because he has been neglected, his energy is a part of him, and I must modify it.

I agree with the sit, stay, fetch, and other types of training, but they are not working well. Some are, but I still have the problem with the nipping and jumping.

Fetch is a great idea, but if I throw the frisbee, he races around the yard - getting as fast as he can, jumps on me, the other dog, plays with the toys, and has a ball. The training part here is beyond me. If he does not train, he will not be punished. He will do many things for a treat, but after the treat, it is plaly time.

Sammy

I agree, your question is not clear, what advice are you looking for? What makes you think he is a "truley strong willed alpha dog"? I didn't get that impression from anything you wrote here. Is there more? It sounds like he is a high energy puppy who it sounds like is not getting enough activity and mental stimulation. Until you get him more tired, his mind is thinking play.
Why do you need to work up to a 45 minute walk? It seems like he would have no problem with a 4 hour walk!
I think more information about what you are looking for would be helpful.

I stated that jumping is the number one problem, and nipping is close to it. I would like to find some solutions to those two problems.

I don't think any dog or human should begin a walking program at a 45 minute interval. Yes, Blaze is high energy, but he is almost wiped out with the short walks since he is so involved in his antics, and little attempts to control the walk.

My ultimate goal is to get him to a place where he can walk well, and be able to walk with our older Golden without jumping all over him, and me, and without running under the feet of his brother.

I would like to hear from other owners who have strong willed alpha dogs. I would especially like to hear about techniques you have used that are not involving a correction collar. I totally respect those who have success with these collars, but they are not my preference.

Sammy

The pup does not know what the boundaries are.
When is play time and when is sleep time? Your dog doesn't know this yet so please put down that bitter apple spray and instead ignore your dog when it is chill out time, don't even give any eye contact for a while, don't talk to him or any of that stuff just pretend he isn't there or put him in a different room (or crate). As suggested use a very short leash... maxium of 1' to 2' of slack and make sure he's paying attention to you. Keep him to your side and not pulling. I have no right to be giving advice on jumping on other people but in time your pup will learn the routine. Set aside certain times for playing, grooming, feeding and affection and just stick to it. Dogs like itineraries and schedules! Don't forget to reward for good behavior and we have a couple special slots in the schedule where they get a stuffed kong. That gets them to settle down very fast too so it's handy to give them after a walk or after playing. BTW, Don't forget to mix in some other games and forms of excercise. They yearn to be mentally stimulated too.

"Have any of you had a truly strong willed alpha dog? He is not this way because he has been neglected, his energy is a part of him, and I must modify it."

I still don't understand where your idea that your PUPPY is a stong willed alpha dog or even on his way to becoming one. He is a puppy with puppy energy.

You have been given a lot of great advice here, read it again and try some of it.

What disrespect!

I opened my heart to this forum, and asked for your opinions on two subjects - nipping and jumping.

I do not understand these responses. I am not two years old, and not much in the world is going to change if I do not find my answers about my puppy. Maybe my dog is alpha and maybe not. Maybe he is dominant and maybe not. Maybe I would like to try what you suggest, and maybe not. Whatever decision I make will not affect yours or my quality of life that much.

I would like to hear from owners of large dogs who have had this problem. I don't know any of you, and do not know what size of dogs you have or what experiences you have had.

My suggestion then is that you see a behaviorist, perhaps you'll listen to advice that you pay for.

There's good advice here, but worthless if you don't choose to take it. The only 'disrespect' I see is from your dog to you and from you to this forum. People can offer advice, but there is no magic, only knowledge and consistent hard work.

You said "I want him to learn to walk so he can release some energy. Why do you think walking will release his energy? When children have excess energy, then run around, not walk. If he needs to release his excess energy, throw a ball for him. Once he has released his excess energy, then he can go for a walk.

I had this problem with my lab mix several years ago, where he was more interested in jumping over my other dog than concentrating on the walk.

I ended up having to walk them seperately. I had to teach my lab mix how to walk on the leash properly before I could walk him with my other dog. And then I started off with short walks together, and corrected the jumping by stopping. I spent probably six months working on this until the problem was corrected. It was a long and time consuming process, but worth it. Because both dogs walk nicely together and neither are jumping up on me or each other.

If your puppy already knows how to walk on the leash properly as the only dog, then I would encourage you to give him a good walk before you walk your other dog and then walk them together. It takes a lot more energy on the owners part, but I found that walking my lab before we went on joint walks, helped drain some of his energy and made him easier to work with. Obviously, four years later, my dogs daily walk is always together.

Sammy, I know how you feel. We have 6 mo old yellow lab and have had her 2 mo now. I thought by the end of week one we would have the bounce, leap and nip sorted out but here we are 2 mo later still doing the basics with her. She was spayed last week and first thing she did out of the kennel was leap up on me and give me a pinch! I'm starting to think the nip/pinch thing is something she equates with giving love? She seems to burrow her head into your neck or arm pit before she gives the pinch. Ouch! If you find a good solution please share it with me as I am too old to go around looking like I have hickeys on my neck! lol Good Luck !
Lorie

Emma, that is what I miss with my dogs, and is what I am working for. For years our dogs walked together, then last fall, one dog became suddenly ill, died, and we are starting over with Blaze. Yesterday I have full control in our walk. That was one of the first times ever. Until then, it was jump and play all the time. It is even worse with the older dog because even though we use gentle leads, I fear the leash suddenly hurting Blaze. He can move so fast, and has no fear. I think that all I need now is patience, but I do want them to walk together.

Lostnca, that is why I had asked for some large dog owners to respond. What you describe is exactly what is happening. If I turn my back, his arms are around my waist, and he is nipping at my arms. When I make him get down, his paws rake across my legs, and leave scratches or bruises.

The bitter apple stuff has been my only solution. I have actually sprayed him with it 4 or 5 times, and other times just held it. I just must always hit his mouth directly and not eyes. That would hurt.

Dekeoboe, I think that may be a very good idea, but when I take him to the yard before we leave, he just sort of gets energized. He becomes so stimulated that he just races around and jumps all over me and our other dog. I must keep thinking puppy puppy puppy.

Cynthia, I had no problem with your initial response. It seemed to be very well thought out, relevant, and good advice. In no way did you make even a hint of a statement that was demeaning to me.

Sammy

Two things in your post caught my attention: You said: " While holding him, I would talk to him in gentle tones, and explain why the jumping and nipping are so bad"..........and........"I fear the leash suddenly hurting Blaze".

You probably won't like my suggestions, but I think you're being too patient with the dog. One, don't talk to him at all when you take him to the ground in an alpha roll.........in his mind you're just making a game out of it and he's ready to play when you release him.
How do you feel he can be hurt by a leash? He's a big, energetic dog and it would take a lot to 'hurt' him.

My approach would be to put a choke (yes, a choke!) collar on him during the training/walking session just so you can get some control. First though, learn the correct way to use one. After he learns the rules you can then return to a regular collar.
I'm one that has little patience with nipping and jumping and when dogs learn it's not accepted they 'will' stop.

My honest opinion......the dog knows you have no control is taking advantage of it. As mentioned above, you need to work and walk him separately from the other dog.

Annz, I am glad you mentioned the leash thing. What I was talking about was walking the two together. The Gentle Leads work well, but Blaze can suddenly jump, start to play with the other dog, or try to turn to me, and very suddenly get the leash around his neck. My other dog is about 90 pounds and very muscular. If he doesn't stop, or if I cannot grab the larger dog, the leash can suddenly choke Blaze. I mentioned the other dog, but not that I was trying to walk them together. You are correct that the leash won't hurt Blaze if he is alone on it.

I have heard quite a few negative thoughts on the alpha roll, and what I do is a modified down, not roll. When he started nipping at me, I would close his mouth, and bring him to the ground. He is on his side, I have his mouth closed, and press on his leg so he cannot get up. I gently say "no bite". I release his mouth, and if he starts to bite again, I grab it before he can get up. After about the third time, he stops. But, he will be back since he is a puppy.

You are not alone in liking the choke collar. Many people like the prongs too. Those are not my preference. I never believed in hurting my children, and do not believe in huring a dog. It is just like yelling. If he barks at me to come and play, and I yell "no", I am playing. He barks, I bark. I try to turn it around so that nobody - person or dog barks.

Sammy

I'm not sure why you are thinking Blaze is an alpha dog. Sounds more like goofy puppy syndrome to me. I know you said you prefer a Gentle Leader over a prong or choke collar but are you aware that the Gentle Leaders can cause severe neck trauma if the dog bucks and fights it like you are describing Blaze doing. If properly fitted and used a choke or prong collar will not harm a dog. That's the key to any training equipment. It's also the mark of a good trainer that when one method or piece of equipment fails to get the desired result they change to something different. Personally I would spend more time playing fetch or something with him then take him for a walk, leaving the older guy at home until Blaze has better manners. As you know, Goldens are bred to work in the field for hours at a time, a walk alone just isn't going to burn up much energy. Most dogs don't multi-task well. If you recognize his signals that he's about to jump give him something else to do to distract him. Sit, down, a formal heel, anything to push "jump" out of his mind. Also the talking and explaining to him when you have him down sounds exactly like blah blah blah lets play blah blah. It usually reinforces what you don't want them to do. Tell him no, stop or whatever your correction word is and move on.

Lisa

I like goofy puppy syndrome. I also like blah blah blah. I know he doesn't understand me, but I want him to understand that the nipping is not permitted.

My husband yells at him, and he barks at my husband. Frankly I think it is kind of cute. It is a game they play. My husband yells "no, no, no, don't you understand the meaning of no, don't bite, stop it, no no." Blaze yaps back at him as he is yelling. My husband sits down, and Blaze leaps up to his lap.

I understand that the alpha roll can increase aggression in an alpha dog, so I hold him down on his side where he is looking at me, and I talk to him while I gently keep his mouth closed. When I release it, if he is still nipping, I will hold it again. He will finally stop.

I am very interested in those who have similar situations. I like to identify with those who are like me. I am also interested in those who have differing opinions because they can also be correct, and I can learn from them. I also enjoy the company of people who are total opposites of me. I am not interested in an arrogant know it all who tells me what to do or how I should listen to him/her.

I like these forums, and I like people, dogs, and roses. I enjoy discussions and find most views very well thought out and appropriate for the speaker's lifestyle. For me, though, I will decide what I will do.

The choke collar!! Trainers love it. Twenty years ago a trainer grabbed the leash from me and jerked my bassett with the choke collar. He screamed and cried and cried. He was a big tough bassett hound, and she hurt him. She hurt him a lot. Since then I have made it clear that I will not use those collars, and no trainer will ever take the leash from me. I have never had another trainer like that, but will not use the collar. I know how dangerous the gentle leads can be. It is my nature - the blah blah blah language, and the gentle tone of voice - to be gentle with the gentle leads.

Lisa, thank you. I appreciate what you wrote, and wanted to explain about the collar. Alpha dog. The breeder said he was the alpha dog, and the Vet told me he was an alpha dog. That means to me to be very careful with his relationship with the older brother. We always go to the older dog first, and make it clear to Blaze that he does not come before his brother. I take the "alpha" bit with a grain of salt. He is a goofy puppy, and the alpha is a warning to me just like a parent's letter about a student being diagnosed as ADD, ADHD is a warning. It just doesn't hurt to know.

Sammy

Frankly, I have little patience with jumping, nipping dogs. I know it goes against what many believe, but I believe in giving very strong, quick corrections. I have only used choke collars on large dogs and give swift corrections when they don't heel properly. Start with baby steps and don't go further until you have control.

I don't believe the 'alpha roll' works and can create other problems. Once the dog is fully mature, there's no way you will get the dog down - and you shouldn't have to. Don't talk nicely. What the dog is doing is not nice!

I would suggest joining an obedience class and work on heeling. Also, I break a dog of nipping, mouthing behavior early. I will give a swift whack under the chin and hope they bite their tongues. Remember, with a choke collar, you control the air they breathe. Once they realize that, they will enjoy their walk and breathing at the same time.

Jane, you are not alone, but in the Puppy Kindergarten class, she told us that they were not able to heel or fully understand it until they were close to a year.

We have gone for 2 days now, and he has not jumped once in the house. The mouthing and nipping are still there, but I put my hand under his chin and pet him, and he stops. He has begun to understand these through the gentle correction. But again, this is my personality.

I was most pleased with our walk when he started to try to spin out of his leash, I sprayed his mouth once, and he never did it again. This was quite an improvement.

I understand your methods, and see that many agree with you, but I don't want to hurt my dog. I don't want him to be afraid that I will stop his breathing or make his tongue bleed. I am not in a hurry, and don't want to cause pain.

Sammy

Dogs and Roses, you got hostas too? We can be best buddies for life.

Lisa

Oh, Lisa. I love hostas, but they are under my tree, and they do not get enough food. I only have about 8 of them. I planted them years ago, and the tree grew around them. I think I need to dig them up and put them in large pots. I read that you have 200 hostas? Wow, I am impressed.

I have about 250-300 rose bushes. I love roses. How is your tick situation in Memphis? I think we have about the same climate, and yesterday I found a tick on me. I really really really hate ticks. Also I think I got it while working on my island in the church parking lot.

Sammy

I think it's probably way over 200 by now. I went kind of nuts this spring and have spent over $600 ordering more. Wish I had more sunny places for roses.

Ticks are usually pretty bad in the spring. I keep Frontline on the dogs so they don't get many but at times I can't go out in the yard without getting one on me. yuck.

Lisa

Hello Sammy. I have a 5 month old Saint Bernard that already weighs 85#. We also have the problem of him wanting to jump and nip when he gets excited or is playing. I have tried many things to get him to stop, including yelling at him and pinning him down on back and holding him there. I found that these things really don't work with him. They actually seem to make him a little worse. What I have found to be most effective is very simply ignoring his behavior. When he tries to jump on me or nips at me or barks at me I put my hands up and block him (for the jumping), then turn my back on him and walk away. I tell you, his behavior is much improved in the short time I have been doing this (maybe about a week) and I wish I had started this simple training method a lot sooner. I hope this helps and good luck with your doggy.

Hi Sammy, how is the training going? I am happy to report that Abby the yellow lab is *getting it* this week. For some reason she has stopped jumping and is sitting down to get her leash on and off. I have been very consistant about saying no... pushing her down and if I am standing pulling my knee up before she can bounce on me. I have been crossing my arms and then continue on my way while saying NO. Down! She is also starting to respect that when she climbs in my lap she is not allowed to nip and bite me since I have been shoving her off of my lap with out a kind word and just a strong NO.
Lorie

Your dog thinks it is a game. Almost anything you do that gives him attention for this behavior reinforces that idea. When he misbehaves, tell him NO, once, firmly, then make him sit-stay for a couple minutes. Not no, no, no, bark, bark, no, no. That's a game. Annoying mom and dad is a game. Fun. Look at all this attention. Sitting is boooring. If you are walking, stop the walk, same thing. NO, sit, stay. Boooring. Once he's settled, you can resume the walk. As soon as he misbehaves again, stop, sit, stay. Yep, it might be 2 seconds later. Stop anyway. It takes time, it takes patience, it takes humans who are more stubborn than the dog.

Lisa, I'd like to see a picture of those hostas sometime. I cannot believe that you spend so much adding to your collection. But I do understand that they are a necessity.

My roses have run up to $300 this year, and I thought that was a lot. They are our Christmas presents and our movie and snack at the movie treats. I hate to go to movies, so I save a fortune, and of course that money goes to roses.

Lorie, I am glad you asked. I have had very good results with the bitter apple spray. I use it on him about every other day and even then, just barely. When we go for a walk, I put it in my carpenter's apron, and do as many others here suggested, and have many treats. I start by praising him profusely, and giving him a treat. I used the spray for jumping, and he hasn't jumped for days. When we are walking, if he goes down to try to take off the collar, I hold the bottle to him. He gets up and walks. I often spray the bottle off to the side so the scent is very evident. That is all it takes.

At home he doesn't jump, but the nipping is play. We are still working on that. He nips because he wants me to play with him. He is getting better since I have stopped playing. Since he was very small, I would go into the Rec room, and stomp my feet at him to let him play. He would race and race. We would roll over on the floor, and he had a ball. But as he has gotten to be so big, that is too rough. I am afraid that the nipping sort of went along with that.

Quirk, I am not the one who keep saying no, no,no. It is my husband. I am afraid that the sit stay only works for a treat. He won't do it, and I don't care too much. It was the nipping and jumping that I cared about. My husband will never be strict with him, just like he never was with the children. If I turn my back on Blaze to ignore him, he will jump on me. If I walk out of the room, he will go jump on my husband's lap. If my husband is out of the room, he will jump on our bigger dog.

So many of these other training techniques will be delayed. After having read so many of the other posts, I see that my life is very different from others. When you talked about taking your dog into a store, I had a vision in my mind's eye of when we had our three dogs - 2 goldens and one bassett. I cannot imagine parading them into any store. They only went to the Vet's office together. They socialize with each other, and through the neighbors' fences when we walk. When friends come over, my friends step over their little fence to pet them. The dogs never have full reign of the house when people are visiting.

One thing I think about it "come". He won't come to me on command. I never punish him, and don't yell at him. I know not to call a dog to come only to punish or yell at him, but I am curious that he won't come to me when I call. He will always race into the room, but remains at arms' length. Curious. After I stop telling him to come, and start to do something else, he is right there.

Lisa, was Goofy Puppy Syndrome your term? I think so. I love it. I do feel that I have fewer worries with a golden retriever than with another breed. As they get older, it is their nature to want to please. If I had a different breed, I would perhaps read up on it more and have a different attitude. (Bassetts are not too aggressive either.)

Sammy

sammy, I understood it was your husband, not you. Doesn't matter. In order to be effective, you and your husband both are going to have to be very consistent in whatever method you use. Your husband is teaching Blaze, first of all, that "no" is something to be ignored, so if he continues to use it in play, you are going to have to use a different word to mean it seriously. "stop" maybe.

Personally, I can't understand not teaching sit-stay. It's really the basis for all other good-dog behavior. Including "come"-- have him sit-stay while you step a couple steps away, with a treat. Tell him to "come" and make him come to you to get the treat. If he can't stay, he doesn't get the treat. If he gets distracted on the way to you and doesn't come all the way, he doesn't get the treat. You gradually move further and further and make the stay longer and longer. He'll get it, it just takes time and you have to work up to longer "stays". Six months is still pretty young. You've got a big baby full of energy on your hands. It's hard for him to sit still, but he'll get the hang of it if you work with him. And once he knows sit-stay, it really is soooo much easier to stop unwanted behavior by interrupting it to have him do a specific task that he knows and can do. I swear, it really does make everything else easier.

If I have treats, he will sit and stay. But as punishment, if I try to make him sit, he will either jump or lie down. You are right - he is a baby. He will turn out ok because he is adored. I firmly believe that if they are adored, they will be fine. My husband is one of the finest men ever. We have had many dogs through the years, and now he is retired. He wil do whatever he wants to do, and I would not ever tell him what to do. That is just the way I am.

He is tall and I am short. Blaze can jump on him, and not lick his face. He puts his legs up on the stool to read and Blaze jumps up to his lap. He thinks that is really funny. He often laughs at the idea that a 65 pounds dog manages to be a lap dog.

Sammy