The hex tile is by Crossville and the style is Savoy. Try this website and go directly to the certified showroom. http://www.crossvilleinc.com/ Hope that helps! It was expensive..hope to love it, eek. I went ahead and ordered the same 4' hex for the shower as its a small room..thought it was keep it clean looking. Here is a link that might be useful: Crossville Savoy

You might also want to take a look at Designs in Tile--their website is a little discouraging in terms of timing/availability, but they do sell overrun which might work for you. I ordered a sample from them and it is a nice flat old school looking tile. Not cheap, though. I ultimately decided to go with Subway Ceramics (installation scheduled for early April--FINALLY!) One warning about the Iron Gate tile--the tile shop warned me that I wouldn't be able to get the tight grout line I want with those tiles. I think they are handmade or something (and they are lovely), but in any case the tile size (apparently) varies enough that they need a bit thicker grout line. Just in case that is a consideration for you. Here is a link that might be useful: Designs in Tile

Let me better descibe... The current medicine cabinet is 30" w and 26" h, is NOT recessed and sits on top series of rows of 4 X 4 tiles which act as a backsplash for the sink below. The cabinet appears to be secured with 4 screws to two studs 16" apart. I assume a vent pipe is in the center and yes, I drilled thru one of those once which is why I am being so cautious! The new cabinet is 30"w X 30"h or 4 inches taller. It will NOT be recessed either. If I mount it just above the top row of 4 X 4 tiles I am afraid it will be too high. I guess there are two solutions. 1) Pop out some of the 4 X 4 tiles so the new cabinet can shift down 4 inches. I have no idea how the tiles are adhered to the wall. I assume over drywall. I was just at HD and the guy there thought I might get the tiles off but it might take some drywall or drywall paper with it; ie they might not just pop off. He felt this could be a moisture issue even if a medicine cabinet would cover the mess left behind. 2)The scond option would be to drop the lower end of the new cabinet down 4" and on top the row of tile I was thinking of removing. Of course I'd have to put 2 or 3 rows of 30w X say 4" H by 3/8" thick shims in back of the cabinet to fill the gap cause by the tile. I could then mount the new cabinet and secure with screw through the cabinter, through the shims and into the studs with 4 or six screws. That leaves me with approx 3/8" gap around parts of the permiter of the cabinet (sides/top) but not at the base that is sitting flush against the tile No one would ever see the gap at the top. Nor would they see the gap on the right side since the right side is inches from the corner of the room. I would have to put a piece of quarter round down the left side of the cabinet to hide the gap there though. HOWEVER, would this not also be a mositure issue, having a gap around the top and right side? Ideas?

My tile contractor, who lives next door, says that he much prefers 4x4. He feels that the 6x6 is just not the right scale. He has also been installing quite a bit of subway tile lately. These are just his opinions, but I thought I'd pass them along. I had a designer tell me to go 12x12 as well, but I agree, I don't care for the look. His theroy was that when you do 4x4 of 6x6 in the field tile, it is hard to differentiate in the focal point behind the range if you want to do something different there. With 12x12, you basically get one tile, then two pieces in a normal back splash. I guess I am going 4x4.