removing a single row og 4 X 4 cermaic tile???
17 years ago
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- 17 years ago
- 17 years ago
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Whoops! Floor not level, tiles need to be removed...any advice?
Comments (6)We now understand why you're not chomping at the bit to do your shower. We have a VERY healthy respect for GOOD tilers! As I've said in another post, DH is a very competent DIY'er, but he says he will never tile another shower again! I love the look of the 12 X 24 tiles, but if we'd had a 6' X 4' shower, instead of a 5' X 3', it would have been much easier. Nearly every single tile had to be cut. We decided to miter all the outside corners, niche and one wall, and that was a bugger on those big tiles. We're not 100% happy with the results, but it will be interesting to see what others think of it, of course it's in our Master BR, and guests will only see it once, and I'm sure they will be polite and give the appropriate oohs and aahs. Hopefully once the teak vanity is in, my complete vision will come to fruition, and the overall look WILL be worth it. Hopefully, your counter is perfect. I have a feeling they might have had problems cutting mine too, as it is not exactly the part of the remnant I had specified. I had another piece cut for the shower niche, and when DH had to trim it a bit, a corner fell off. When I took it back to the granite fabricators to fix his boo-boo, another bigger chunk fell off. They glued it back on...far back corner, so no one will ever see, but I realize that this granite, though very pretty, is quite fragile. It had that mesh glued on the bottom...so it's fine for a small vanity, though I don't think I would have taken a chance with it for a large kitchen, too many places it could have crumbled/broken....See MoreCan 3/4' Oak Hardwood floor be put over OSB?
Comments (52)In regards to using OSB, I have the following comment: I am a structural engineer in California, and I have specified OSB as a subfloor, roof sheathing & shear wall sheathing for hundreds of homes. As far as an underlayment for hardwood floors, there appears to be two issues. 1) is the floor structurally sound for hardwood, and 2) whether attaching the hardwood directly to OSB will result in nail slippage many years down the road. I have comments on both issues. As far as the floor being structurally sound, I have seen a few posts on this issue & I am not one to automatically say that hardwood should be placed perpendicular to the floor joists... But it would definitely be stronger and may help in easily repairing the hardwood attachment if the nails should slip many years down the road. I myself have placed the hardwood parallel to the floor joist because my subfloor is very stiff. To get a stiff floor, this is my recommendations: joist spacing should not exceed 16"o.c.; floor joist span should be designed conservatively (building code minimum is not conservative), and floor sheathing should be 3/4" nominal and placed with the face grain (long dimension) perpendicular to the joist & staggered. In regards to item 2: some national floor associations have said direct OSB attachment is acceptable as long as sheathing is PS2 standard & 23/32" minimum. That is all we can go by. As I mentioned above, let's say the nails do slip after many years... If your hardwood is perpendicular to the joist, couldn't you just screw it down to the joist below as a repair? That is one benefit I can see with placing the hardwood perpendicular to the joist or adding blocking between the joist. In regards to nail slip, I posted a blog regarding using the hardwood nailers that drive the cleats at an angle in the tongue of the hardwood edge. The cleats are locked in place inside the T & G connection. How is this going to lift up? Also when you drive the nail at an angle, there is a vertical bearing component of the nail that is preventing the nails from lifting. This is versus using a brad nailer that goes vertical. The vertical nail would rely totally on friction between the OSB & nail and I can see this possibly slipping down the road....See MoreCan I replace a section of 3/4' Hardwood floor?
Comments (14)OK, why would replacing the subfloor help? That is what I called the GC to see about doing and he said it would not help. I can not do that myself but did call a contractor to inquire. Apparently yes I have a high spot running the length of the house along the steel beam, which has not settled like the floor to one side (the livingroom). The floor to the other side does not appear to be sagging as much, but that is the side that had the fire and I believe the joists were probably replaced. The floor is NOT "perfectly" level beyond that, there appear to be some small dips that are very slight. Using a 4 foot level, not a 6 since I don't have one, I just placed it in about 3 other places and found no noticeable areas where the floor is not flat. Adding another layer of 1/4 in plywood would be fine, but there is no way to make that a smooth transition that I can think of since the new piece would create an even more abrupt change in level. Taking out the subloor along the beam might help but then it would be less than 1/2". It is 5/8" now, and if I reduced that by 1/4 inch, that would only leave 3/8", not enough to nail hardwood to, I don't believe. I would really rather not take up the first 3 rows that are face nailed, if at all possible. I have those nailed in straight to within 1/8" over a 16 1/2 foot run, including past a 6' opening, and that was a bit of a PIA to get to that point. I didn't know you could nail hardwood to leveling compound? My problem with filling the "dip" is that it is more of a permanent drop in the level of the floor beyond that point and I would have to increase it across most of the entire floor. There is actually a small "ramp" going up the hall past the bathroom on the opposite side of the steel beam, but that is also where a neighbor said the fire was. I believe the subfloor and probably even the joists were replaced after the fire on that side of the steel beam in 1994, but the joists and probably the subfloor on the livingroom side are original and date to 1960. I don't know what a fire or the process of putting out a fire can do to steel beams and joists. The house was fully inspected when I purchased it 10 yrs ago, and I still have the 20 page report. The structure was determined to be very sound. I have seen no evidence of movement in the house in the last 10 years, no big cracks or even increasing numbers of small cracks, in ceilings or walls, and what I can see of foundation looks OK. Windows open and close fine, etc. I guess if the contractor I called doesn't feel it will help, I am a little uncertain about where to go from there. I am sure I can find someone who would do what I ask, but are you sure it will help? Why won't the new sub floor just assume the same position over a short period of time? Here is a photo of the layout with the flooring direction. The flooring is being laid perpendicular to the joints, parallel to the steel beam. I am trying to install hardwood through the livingroom and kitchen and started along the wall that divides the two. I plan to reverse the boards using a spline to install the kitchen side. At this point, I plant to start the kitchen tomorrow and put this aside until I can figure out the correct thing to do. When the kitchen floor is in, I can at least proceed with my remodel and have the new kitchen installed. In the meantime, I will need to figure this out and thank you all for your help so far and hope you can help me resolve this. Sue...See MoreDo you like or hate your 4-foot-wide island? Can I see a picture?
Comments (47)My island is 9' X 5' all counter height I love it. Sorry, I do not know how to post photos. But others' photos give you the picture. I have seating on one 9' side, and the sink on the other. I have plenty of walk space all around and it is open to the family room. The TV is visible from the sink. It is the hub of my home. The disposal switch is inside the sink cabinet. Yes, the kids tend to throw everything on the island and it is the landing spot for groceries, so I have to be diligent about making sure it stays tidy. It is a gorgeous showstopper so I wouldn't change a thing....See MoreRelated Professionals
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