I have never used that paint...is it runny and sort of loose bodied? You don't really have to worry about overloading the roller I don't think, but when you dip your sleeve and start rolling a section, the area where you start has all the heavy paint and that has to be spread out. If you don't spread it out enough then that could sag. Also, temperature may make a difference. If the room is cold or the wall itself is cold, the paint may not dry as fast as it supposed to and can sag. Also, sometimes when you are rolling top to bottom, when you change directions at the top, some people that are pushing too hard on the sleeve can leave a small hill of paint there. Is that what happened? You want to not push hard on the sleeve, especially when you change directions.

While the paint is curing, it may be hard to remove drips without pulling the paint film around so you need to be careful. You can try denatured alcohol on a rag lightly to try to rub the drip down or you can try lightly sanding with 150 grit. The paint can take up to a month to fully cure so until then you really can't scrub it or sand it harshly without turning it into a rubbery mess.

Can't you cut-in around the wires and cables with a brush prior to rolling?

Paint doesn't clog up the sink but you don't want to pour mass amounts of paint down your drain if you can help it. You can squeeze most of the paint out of your rollers back into the can before you begin to wash them.

Here is something I saw done on an HGTV show - maybe the paint experts here can advise whether it is a good idea or not:

They were painting a refrigerator. When they saw a paint drip on the first coat, they took a strip of blue tape and applied it to the drip and pulled it off. Then they painted over the area that had been stripped off. Has anyone tried that?

When painting, it's always a good idea to "back-check" your work. In other words, roam the area with your eyes as you work in the next section. Drips develop soon, sags may take a half hour or so. A drip can be "tipped" with the brush tip and it will drink up most of the drip. A sag or run needs to wait!

Repairs are not easy. Repairs must be invisible. It's best to wait until the paint dries, sand the area smooth and touch-up the area.

The tape may remove more paint than you want, causing a need to fill the void, sand smooth and repaint.

What is your roller pattern?

Michael

I know...it CAN be frustrating! There's so many variables as Michael & Paintguy said.

The Roller:
You should be able to walk across the room and not have a full roller "drip".
* If paint is dripping readily off the roller, it's "too full".
* You want the paint to be "held IN" the roller, not sitting on top. This can lead to running/sagging.
* Lightly roll-off any thick, excess coating on the outside of roller.
* When doing the light ceiling-to-floor "sweep" of your columns, try to keep the pressure as equally light as you can.

If you're putting art/pictures back up on your "wires"...give it a MONTH if you can! As PG said, curing takes that long! If you put up a picture after only 2 days, and someone bumps it...you'll have a scuff/gouge that may be hard to blend out.

A little Latex paint down the drain is nothing!! Be careful with Joint compound & Tile grout/adhesive cleaning though!!! THAT can be a problem....

(I wish PAINT was the worst stuff going down drains...!)

Vinaya...you WILL be posting pix, won't you?!?!?

Faron

Thank you for all the replies. You all make such excellent points on what could have gone wrong. It could be that it wasn't spread out enough and the first areas are what are sagging. It could also be because it was early morn and the room was cold as it was being ventilated with a in-out window exchanger.

We use a W pattern over a 3' X 3' section and spread horizontally. The pressure at the end of the stroke is also an important point as I guess its instinctive to apply pressure to lift.
paintguy, the paint isn't especially runny or loose bodied but then this is the first house paint we have handled. So don't know if its worse than other brands.

faron, that's the best description of how full a roller should be that I have read! I get the idea now.

Will have to try the sanding and touching up to see if it can be cured.
faron, will post pics tom

Happy New Year everyone!

Whatever pattern you're using, be sure to start your roller 12 inches down from the last applied paint and roll into the wet edge above it. Never start a roller at the wet edge.

Michael

My new favorite tool for paint drip (drops?) removal is a common "popsicle stick". We had numerous drops of paint, and I started out trying to remove with a wet cloth. Bad idea! After about 12 to 24 hours when the drop has congealed to a rubbery consistency, I found that the rounded edge of a popsicle stick will either nudge it off completely or in multiple strokes, will make it totally disappear! Harsher tools leave marks, but the soft but firm stick allows combing into the wood grain, or faux wood grains in laminate to even hard tile without a trace of a scratch! I am embarrassed to say I have successfully removed hundreds of these from my last painting fiasco.