I think it's about the floor and like John said sanding between with the last coat having the finest sandpaper... it made it better when I did that. Also it's important each coat cure properly. More coats may have been needed because it's soaking into the wood? you need at least two but three maybe. John's the pro so go at least three?

Hi, I am having the same problem. I have to paint baseboards for my entire house (300 linear feet). I have been practicing on scrap pieces of baseboard, but apparently, the learning curve is steep, and I don't have that much time. I have added water, but that doesn't help. I think the most frustrating thing is that I have been to Sherwin-Williams twice, and the employees, although very kind, have never heard of issues with ProClassic. I finally googled the specific paint, and voila, I found that it's hard to work with. I also have half a mind to walk in there with the paint, my brush, and a baseboard... and let them show me. I did ask one employee if he had ever painted, and he said no. :( Disappointing. I have a sponge roller, and yes, there are marks from when I join a freshly painted section to the previously painted one, but compared to the brush (where I have lines AND that same overlap problem), it's better. I have tried lots of suggestions, but nothing is really making a huge difference. I am using a Purdy XL Dale brush.. As soon as I lay the paint on, I see the brush marks. I tried working in small sections (between 6 inches and a foot), leaving the wet edge, but when I join the current section to the previous section in the series, you see the overlap. It seemed to be better when I used LESS paint; more paint led to deeper lines (and some dripping - I did try on the installed baseboard). Jerapa said to resist the urge to work the paint, but when I do these smaller sections, there's STILL the overlap... and yes, there are still lines. I've attached a photo. This looks AWFUL. Could someone please suggest a paint that will be easier for a DIY-er to work with? Thanks so much!

Because I live with a gloss in the kitchen and then matte on the rest of the 1st floor, I'd definitely suggest the matte finish. It doesn't take away from the beauty of the wood (we have oak) and it's great with kids. We have very few scratches, or if we do, I can't really see them. The gloss finish on our prefinished floor in the kitchen shows dust/dirt more easily and the gloss is a bit distracting, honestly. It wasn't my first choice for wood in the kitchen but I just couldn't live through on-site sanding/staining by the time the kitchen was almost done. And I couldn't get a matte finish in prefinished at the price I wanted.... Good luck! Wood floors are just beautiful so I'm sure your result will be wonderful no matter which finish you choose.

I am debating on my countertop. I really like the look of Black Absolute honed, but do not want the fingerprints. My countertop contractor advised me that applying a semi-gloss finish to the honed surface eliminates the fingerprints (and also provides a tiny bit of gloss, which I am OK with). Anyone ever hear of this? Much appreciated! Thanks NO! July 2007: customer demanded we do this: turned into a nightmare: I promise: sealer didn't take everywhere (AB is very dense: and sealer hard to absorb in the first place): you need to find and google every article on AB granite! There are stories after stories. This really happened; I promise We fixed the countertop enough for customer to sell house! Guys stripped the "shinny sealer" and let dry for 3 days: granite turned milky white! Customer was having a heart-attack! Installers re-applied an expensive color enhancer sealer: $100 gallon and that worked. Enough to satisfy the customer to be able to sell the house. Why do you want black granite: I am not saying that to offend anyone: I promise: you have to ask yourself those questions. And read all the articles re: AB. There are so many beautiful granites out there. I think others on her have had ok luck: but not everyone and if you read the stories on the internet: then you will know. Also, I think others have had better luck with caesar stone black or soapstone black. Ask: Also, there is "fake" AB out there that has been dyed to appear more black and the sealer messes with the ink. True AB comes from Africa and is never truly jet black. You will see that in the many articles that I have found re: AB granite. Good Luck: (google "absolute black nightmare stories" and "absolute black fake dye" here is one: I've always kept: customer: "I am a General Contractor and have over the years installed many many stone tops and other stone surfaces on my projects. Not until now have I ever been faced with a stain problem. On a multi-million dollar condominium project, I have encountered stains that look like simple water stains on the absolute black granite tops. Already I have completely replaced two of the tops because no amount of in-place polish or buffing would remove these stains. Last week my Superintendent discovered at least two other tops with similar stains. Replacement of these tops is very expensive not to mention time consuming and I am looking for some other repair method. I have heard about a black stain being used on some inferior stones in the fabrication process to enhance the color and appearance. Is there any method out there that I can employ to less expensively repair the discoloration spots in these tops? Help, I have already invested over $5K in two tops and appear to be on the way to more. Please respond soon" Responded: "I've got one good news and two bad news for you. The first bad news is that your "granite" countertops are either maliciously doctored, or they are "mutt" stones. (Some black "granite" with mineral binders within, which react to acidic substances.) The "stains" that you have are not stains at all. In fact, a true stain is always darker than the stained material - never lighter. If it is lighter, it's a mark of corrosion (etching). It could be the doctoring agent (some sort of black "shoe shine" applied by the factory to make a gray stone look black) that's coming off (you know, the one that you would like to do?...); or it could be the type of stone that's sensitive to acids. The second bad news is that even if I knew about some "magic black shoe-shine" to bail you out for a couple of months at best, I wouldn't tell you. Sorry, but I'm the creator, co-founder and major responsible of marblecleaning.org, and therefore I am a consumer advocate. Stone doctoring is right on our hit list, and a very high priority at that. Trust me, you don't want to be in our line of fire!! I can't be part in any way, shape or form of such a despicable practice, which is a full-fledged criminal activity - sorry. Which brings us to the good news! You're not responsible for what's happening! Well, you are in relation to the owners of the condo's units, but you can easly go back to the fabricator and the stone yard that sold that stuff to you and hold them fully responsible on consumer fraud charges. It's a pretty black and white case, and in this scenario marblecleaning.org would be only glad to help you. And... FYI, there's no such a thing like black granite (all black granites are not granite by a long shot). And selling stones like that as granite is consumer fraud right there. If you add to that the fact that those particular slabs do not perform like black "granite" is supposed to perform..".