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painting a front door

12 years ago

I need to repaint my front door. The door is currently green and I'm going to paint it black. The guy at the paint store says I won't have to prime if the current paint is in good shape. Will I have better results if I prime? Also, does anyone know if I will have any issues with the paint job if the temperature dips down to the low 40s at night after I paint it? After looking at the forecast next week, it looks like it will be in the 60s during the day and the low to mid 40s at night. There is a storm door in front of the door which will protect it from any dew and moisture. Any advice would be appreciated.

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Comments (9)

PRO
Christopher Nelson Wallcovering and Painting
12 years ago
Are you painting latex over latex? If so just rough sand it ( break the film) clean, and paint, no priming necessary
Michael
12 years ago
Will the door be exposed to sunlight for more than one hour per day? If so, (black paint) it will most likely warp the door. Once the heat becomes trapped between the door and storm door, more damages will occur.
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jaaa
Original Author
12 years ago
The door will be exposed to sunlight since there is no front porch or trees to shade it. The door has been a medium green color for over 13 years and it hasn't warped yet. Will the black color really make it more prone to warping? The only other color I could paint it is a burgundy red but I really would prefer black.
Faron79
12 years ago
What's the doors' construction....all wood, fiberglass, or metal-skinned, etc.?

Yes....black will get marginally hotter than a dark green, believe-it-or-no!

Ideally-
* Take off the door and paint it horizontally.
* Use a PRE-TINTED Black "from the factory". The pre-tints use black POWDERED pigments, not the liquid colorants at the store. These are much "Blacker", and cure faster.
* After the prep., apply 2 coats of your black, about 2-3 hours apart.
* Wait as long as possible b4 re-hanging & closing it for the night!
* If ya get the coats on b4 noon, wait 'til 10pm to reinstall if ya can!!
* ALSO: very-very lightly dust the door-JAMB, NOT the door itself, with some talcum-powder/similiar. This keeps curing paint from sticking to the surface it closes against under pressure. It's the same reason you'd dust a cake-pan!
* FULL cure-out MAY take a month.

>>

Faron
Michael
12 years ago
* ALSO: very-very lightly dust the door-JAMB, NOT the door itself, with some talcum-powder/similar*

LOL...I can see it now...a talcum dusted still tacky black door.
Faron79
12 years ago
Well...sure!
There IS that kinda cool faux-finish look...."frosted edges" that may look cool?!?!

;-)

Also-
Because it's a front door, I should've said....very-very lightly dust the insulation-strips that your door closes against!

Faron
PRO
Christopher Nelson Wallcovering and Painting
12 years ago
Because it's a front door, I should've said....very-very lightly dust the insulation-strips that your door closes against!

Better yet, just remove them for a week or use WD40 on em if they cannot be removed. I do not like the idea of white powder sticking to the black door either.
Michael
12 years ago
I always used Armor All on weatherstrips when needed. Paint or stain won't adhere to wax.
Faron79
12 years ago
Aaaaaahhh-

Two more very good ideas for "anti-stick" properties when closing curing doors!
Isn't Armor-All largely Silicone though Brush?!

Either way...both will work!

Although I do like the "clean-off-ability" of the light powder dusting a little better. It'll wash right off, whereas wax & silicones slowly WEAR off. It's probably moot though!

Faron

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