Hardwired, on a dimmer, single control by the door, easy to access. The "butler's pantry" area has its own switch on the wall inside the counter area, however.

But I had a total remodel so the walls were open anyway.

I hate shadows and hot spots in the kitchen lights, so want all the main counter lights on or off together. That might not be a concern for you.

What plllog said. We had ours hardwired when we built and now we are looking at getting the lights done after four years since we are getting the granite done. Ours has a single switch on the backsplash for all the under cabinet lights. I will be changing that switch out with a dimmer switch. We will probably put in puck lights that do not have on and off switches on the light itself.

Over time I don't think you would like having to turn on and off each individual light groups. I guess some lights that do have switches on the lights, you could keep them all on if wanted or you could turn certain ones off and and still control them by a dimmer/light switch which gives you plenty of lighting options and control of everything.

Mine is the same as plllog except we have it on a double switch so that I can turn it on, dim etc, from both sides of the room which is handy when we are having a dinner party (one by the dining room) and I want more or less light, and when we go to bed, to hit on the way out of the kitchen on the opposite wall by the main hallway.

My upper cabinet lighting is the same. The transformers are kept in a small cabinet above a door unseen unless you're 8' tall.

I saw some nicely hardwired under cabinet lights at a dealer's showroom across town awhile back. They had the lighting wire in conduit. Very nice. That kitchen display was under construction so everything was visible. It would be so much nicer and easier to fix over time than the flexible wire that I got put into the wall.

All but one of mine are hardwired to a wall switch. By design, one switches only at the fixture itself. I knew I would want to be able to control that one separately and at the point of use - not as I entered the room.

My setup is the same as Pllog's: all lights are hardwired -- high hats, under/over/in cab and pendant -- and all are on dimmers which are adjustable at a multi-gang wall panel near the door.

Gibby3000's solution is also mine. Most hardwired DIMMABLE but some individually controlled. Most are LED strands for task and up (ambiant).

And then there's the temporary (12 years!) retrofit of an old cottage....its a cheapo daisy chain of under cab liting (you cant daisy chain but a small run) where you end up manually turning on in groups. I cant say it is that big of a hassle.
Espec since sometimes i only want one light on or one section illuminated. The biggest criteria for us is always the quality of the light (meaning harsh color or warm) and NOT having anything catch in our eyes while seated.
Along those lines, we installed some then-high-end flourescent thin tube task lites and they dont look "floresecent" in terms of quality of lite at all, but they dont dim and that is drawback. Hence the conversion to dimmable hardwired LED.

Some under cabinet lights are not meant to be hardwired, even though people do so. Many of the "puck" lights sold at the big box stores are wired with lamp cord and are only meant to be plugged into an outlet. If connections are not made inside a UL approved fixture, the do not meet most codes. Folks do rewire them, but maybe they shouldn't.

We used hardwired line voltage Xenon fixtures that also had individual hi/lo switchs. They are all wired to a single switch. We had planned to use a dimmer, but found that the hi/lo feature on each fixture works fine. This type of under cabinet fixture is quite a bit more expensive than the puck lights, but it is designed to be hardwired.

Our lights are made for either hard wire or plug in.

Svwillow1, my UC lights sound like they may end up the same as yours. When I posted this I thought I was a little misinformed. I thought it was either going to be always high or always low, but after another conversation with the electrician, it turns out the high/low toggles will work just fine. Each light will be daisy chained together (I only have 3), but I can customize each to high, low, or off - and then when I flip the wall switch on it will power on to whatever setting that individual light is set to - and I can again adjust from there if needed. That sounds like it will work just fine for me.

Thanks for all the responses.