If the entire wall(s) was completely covered and NO paint is exposed, then a poly vinyl acetate (PVA) to seal the wall would give the best seal. It is a bit thicker than a standard latex primer, so a bit more work to roll it on. However, it will give the best seal. But if paint is exposed, then a standard latex primer should be used as PVA isnÂt used for previously painted surfaces. There are primers that behave like paint even though the can is labeled "primer"; then there are primers that do the job they are suppose to do: seal the wall to keep it from sucking up all the paint and smooth out the surface so the paint rolls on smooth and looks good. I like the BM primers, but that is just my preference. (Those who read my posts know how I feel about the home improvement store brandsÂin particular Behr.) Granted, BM is thick (reads some work to roll on, but BM does an excellent job in sealing and smoothing the surface). I confess that when I use BM primer I curse and swear and say I will never use BM primer again. But then when I begin to paint the surface and see how smooth it isÂand more important, how the wall is properly sealed and does not suck up gallons of paint--I know the work was worth it. In fact, I just used BM primer on three closets, including the master, after we gutted them then and had the walls repaired and retextured in preparation for installation of closet systems. And, yes, I cursed the whole time; and yes, in the end it was so worth the effort. Our master closets is downright dramatic in Pratt & Lambert Violet Echo with a BM Decorator White ceiling, distressed maple hardwood floors in an espresso brown, and the Container StoreÂs Elfa system in walnut and platinum. Do not use an oil base primer unless you have a specific reason to do so (e.g., hide an oil based stain on the wall that you know for sure a latex primer will not hide; you are going to wallpaper, plan to use an oil based paint). BTW, if you ever want to experience the Zen of painting, try P&L Accolades or Farrow & Ball; these paints glide on the wall. The texture of Farrow & Ball is like nothing you have ever rolled on a wall beforeÂthere is a reason F&B has a "cult" following.

Can you make an ornamental band or panel of paint that covers the area that isn't textured? Or frame around the new light with some molding and paint the inside of the framed area a solid color? As for the oak vanity: Gel stain from General finishes can make them into nice dark "pottery barn" looking things with a minimum of work. Here is a link that might be useful: Gel stain

Yes, just paint right over it with satin.

Don't do the paint additives! I'm from the midwest, where sand walls are the overwhelming norm. (By this point, I really think it is more a "style" thing than everyone in the midwest failed to score a good drywall job.) In my sister's house, the previous owners did a diy repair of a wall and used the additive. It was awful. Lumpy, stripy, clumpy, with blobs of sand/paint mix. I don't think there is any way to EVER get an even distribution of the sand if applied in this manner. AND (here's the important part) there was absolutely NO way to get it off. They had to resurface the entire wall. (Yes, it was terrifically bad and had to be addressed.) What if it turns out poorly? There is no way to un-do your "shortcut". At the very least, buy a bucket of paint, add the sand and do a really big (simulating an expanse of wall) test patch. This way you can see the streaks and bunching-up that is inevitable BEFORE you mess up your kitchen. Make sure the test board is big enough that you have a realistic overlap of "M" and "W" blocks...so you can see how the sand shifts when backrolled. I agree with the other posters that there is nothing wrong with smooth walls, but if you are so used to sand, then you're really should pay to get the sand sprayed.