Wulfdino, By "bleeding-through", do you mean... 1) You can SEE wood through the CC, or 2) A RESIN is discoloring through the paint-layer?? >>> You need a good, full coat of CC...using just a few brushstrokes. Then leave it alone for 24 hours so it can level itself out. >>> If you're brushing longer than 60 seconds, it's too much brushing! >>> It needs "the weight of itself" to level out. If a layer is too thin, it can't level. Let us know! Faron

I painted my cabinets with BM Satin Impervo Bittersweet Chocolate. I have builder grade oak cabinets and wanted an espresso stained finish with no brush strokes. I read several tips on this website and would like to share my tips after I have completed the project. a) If your cabinets are refinished with varnish as (most builder grade cabinets are) do NOT prime. BM guy sold me a primer which took forever to sand. Adding a lot of unnecessary work. b) Buy a 1" angled brush for the trim. Make sure it is for oil based paint c) Buy a 2" angled brush for oil based paint. The best you can afford and are willing to pay. I bought a Purdy 2" Ox-O-Angular and a Corona 2" angled brush for the final coat. $20 and $30 respectively. It was worth the money for me. d) Buy 4" foam rollers to apply the paint e) Buy small art brushes for the trim. I painted the backs first and laid out for a week. I then flipped over and painted the fronts. Paint the trim first with the 1" brush. Very light paint. Then use the foam for the rest of the door. Apply a thin coat and then use the 2" brush all over the door very lightly. Let the brushes weight fall on the door and keep as parallel to the surface being painted as much as possible along the grain. Long strokes are always better. Next, remove excess paint on the trim with the art brush. Brush over the trim and remove paint from the brush on a cardboard box every 5-6 inches. Let them dry for a week. After they are dry, sand with a scotch brite in between coats finisher. Lightly. This process should remove excess paint. Use a 220 grit sand paper where paint will not be removed with the scotch brite finisher. Next, use tack cloths to remove dust. Apply the second coat as you did the first coat. Let dry for a week, and apply the second coat to front of the doors. This last coat should be your best finish of all. I used a new brush for the last coat and the training acquired during the first coats and second coat to the back should prepare you to do a great job on this last coat. Think of the first coats as training. Use them to teach yourself the technique that will work for you. I hardly had any brush strokes on the first 18 doors, but my brush began malfunctioning after that. So I had 18 excellent doors and 3 not so good doors. The reason is I did not use a 1" brush for the trim. I used the same 2" angled brush. Problem with this was that I used the brush to get in the crevices of the trim, causing the bristles to bend and over and over again. I believe this damaged the brush toward the end of the project. It's worth another $10 for a 1" brush dedicated to trim. Good luck!

Sounds like you did a great prep job, and you should be OK to start your final coats. Hope you post pics when done!

My preference on bare wood is to use an oil based primer. Oil primers do not raise the grain of the wood, as do water based primers. Also, an oil based primer sands easily, dusting up and leaving an extremely smooth surface to accept the paint, either oil or water based. In general, oils based primers also seal the wood better, however, two finish coats is optimum when painting bare wood to get a nice even sheen.