Hi AApkook17 I have the same problem with my kitchen cabinets, tried kilz latex primer and behr enamel and its dreadful, was going to try S W Chocolate, but the base is really deep and in order to go that deep I would have to go into oil base primer and paint, which will smell up my house, so I am not sure what I am going to do either, my cabinets sit and wait, some are painted some not, I bumped into a professional painter at the paint counter and explained what I was planning on doing and he recommended using oil base, just wish it didn't smell since I cannot close off the room to paint...

For dark colors like that I would still use the oil. You will still have brittle oil paint that will chip easier than a latex but the yellowing should not be a concern if the color is brown. It's only an issue when you have a white turning yellow.

So do you think overall I should go back an buy the IronClad® Latex Low Lustre Metal & Wood Enamel 363/C363 b/c it comes in a base 4 b/c it is a latex? Or keep the oil paint and be ok? I dont care how much I will loose I want it to last not chip in 2years...

Basically is the IronClad® Latex Low Lustre Metal & Wood Enamel 363/C363 going to be inferior to all paint for cabinets on the over all scale. Thanks Andrew

Personally I don't like applying the Iron Clad. It's not fun to brush or roll IMO and it's not really a good self levelling paint.

Paintguy, what about using Aura on cabinets? I do believe that bittersweet chocolate in Aura is doable. What do you think about that option?

Aura is a great idea. I didn't even think of it. I think my mindset on Aura is that it is a wall paint, but I don't see why it can't be used on trim and cabinets. I just did my first trim job with the Aura semi-gloss and it came out fantastic. The problem with other acrylics in dark colors is that they burnish easily but with Aura you may not have that problem. The only possible problem is the brushability because of the fast dry time. When you are cutting in walls it is easy to dip, lay your paint down and move on. If you are painting trim and cabinets, it may be harder to keep a wet edge and if you can't you may get some ugly pulling. It just may be harder for the novice painter, but probably is still doable.

I wouldn't hesitate at all using satin or semi aura on cabinets. Used it on a side table and turned out great.

The oil based Satin Impervo is probably one of the best products that Ben Moore makes. The Ironclad Oil would have been a better choice. Using the oil based primer and paint will do fine. The yellowing mainly applies to White paint.
I would recommmend that you use some Penetrol and a good quality china bristle brush to apply the primer and the finish. Use a foam roller on flat surfaces. Years ago, I used Valspar Industrial Maintenance Gloss White on my kitchen cabinets with an oil based primer, it never chipped or scratched, it did yellow over time. It withstood a Lhasa Apso and a Pekingese scratching at the doors for eight years without failure. I would not use the Aura on kitchen cabinets, I would use the Ben Moore oil based products.

Do you think the oil based Impervo will be okay to use in the bathroom as well being a low circulation area and high moisture area? Thanks

I used Ben Moore oil based Satin Impervo to paint 2 bathroom cabinets as well as some of the cabinets in the kitchen. I WANTED to use oil for the durability. I have one bath cabinet painted red and one is bittersweet chocolate, the kitchen cabinets are a bright olive green. I also used Fresh Start oil primer. I am extremely happy with my results and I haven't had any yellowing of the colors. I also have some old cabinets that I painted white and did use the latex Impervo for those, to prevent any yellowing.
These rooms and cabinets are used a lot and I have nieces and nephews that come to visit and we take no extra care. I have never had any chipping on any of the pieces I painted.
Patience is the key when using the oil based Impervo and taking extreme care in all your prep work will give you great results!
Sue

http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1023/976004810_eed0fac537_o.jpg

I'm trying to post a photo of one of the cabinets........
Sue

http://www.flickr.com/photos/sue_w/sets/72157605411079798/

I just took a couple more photos for you to see the other cabinets.
Sue

Sue those look awsome... Did you use just brushes or a combo of rollers and brushes?

I use the foam 4" rollers to get the paint onto the cabinets quickly and smooth with my china bristle brush.I use good quality brushes, but even with a good brush you may have a bristle fall into your newly painted door. Just examine carefully and dislodge the bristle with a straight pin while still wet.
I don't care for the spackley appearance that only using a roller gives you. I do take all the doors and hardware off the cabinet prior to paint and lay the doors flat on a table on my basement where they can be undisturbed. I do paint the inside of the cabinet doors first and when they are completely dry do the outside.
The Satin Impervo starts out a little shiney, but when it cures you will have a beautful satin smooth finish!
I have also painted several furniture pieces with this paint, with eaqually great results.
Can you tell I like this paint!?
Make sure you have plenty of fine sand paper and tack cloths on hand.
Sue

D.W. didn't you mention an extender for Aura? I haven't looked into it at my local BenM yet. Avoiding oil is pretty much how I steer most folks, but in some cases like Bittersweet or black the Impervo has been the primary option available.

Awesome to hear that you've done furniture with Aura, D.W. and totally trust your and Painguy's input about blazing new trails with Aura! :D

There is still no harder, more durable finish than Satin Impervo. However, VOC laws, indoor air quality concerns, yellowing and difficult clean up will ultimately lead to its demise. Like others said, yellowing is moot with a dark brown and since you already purchased everything, go for it. For others reading the post, need to be mindful that yellowing is very problematic with off-white alkyds in baths and kitchens since products containing ammonia are often used. Ammonia and abscence of light will dramatically accelerate yellowing in alkyd products. That said, Aura SG or Satin are probably the next best alternatives assuming the sheens work for you.

BM has introduced it's own acrylic extender designed to be compatable with its new waterborne formulations including Aura - it's the only additive that won't diminish Aura's dry film properties with no added VOC's.

I am planning to paint my kitchen's cabinets in white. What would be the best option for me: Oil or water based paint? Any thoughts about VALSPAR brand?? Also, we are going to use, for the first time, a sprayer. Any suggestions?
Thanks

danca,

If you're using white, I recommend the Cabinet Coat (if readily available) or SW Pro Classic Semi-Gloss Waterborne.

Michael

Hello All,

I really want to paint my kitchen cabinets a light color. I'm actually going to paint them china white by Benjamin Moore. The cabinets are the basic builders grade oak with a clear varnish on them. They are pretty clean right now. I just purchased Zinsser Cover Stain primer (tinted in the cabinet color), is this the right type of primer to use? Also is BM Satin Impervo the best paint to use for such a project? Any tips you can offer to help me obtain a professional job?

Thanks

I painted my cabinets with BM Satin Impervo Bittersweet Chocolate. I have builder grade oak cabinets and wanted an espresso stained finish with no brush strokes. I read several tips on this website and would like to share my tips after I have completed the project.

a) If your cabinets are refinished with varnish as (most builder grade cabinets are) do NOT prime. BM guy sold me a primer which took forever to sand. Adding a lot of unnecessary work.
b) Buy a 1" angled brush for the trim. Make sure it is for oil based paint
c) Buy a 2" angled brush for oil based paint. The best you can afford and are willing to pay. I bought a Purdy 2" Ox-O-Angular and a Corona 2" angled brush for the final coat. $20 and $30 respectively. It was worth the money for me.
d) Buy 4" foam rollers to apply the paint
e) Buy small art brushes for the trim.

I painted the backs first and laid out for a week. I then flipped over and painted the fronts. Paint the trim first with the 1" brush. Very light paint. Then use the foam for the rest of the door. Apply a thin coat and then use the 2" brush all over the door very lightly. Let the brushes weight fall on the door and keep as parallel to the surface being painted as much as possible along the grain. Long strokes are always better. Next, remove excess paint on the trim with the art brush. Brush over the trim and remove paint from the brush on a cardboard box every 5-6 inches. Let them dry for a week.

After they are dry, sand with a scotch brite in between coats finisher. Lightly. This process should remove excess paint. Use a 220 grit sand paper where paint will not be removed with the scotch brite finisher. Next, use tack cloths to remove dust.

Apply the second coat as you did the first coat. Let dry for a week, and apply the second coat to front of the doors. This last coat should be your best finish of all. I used a new brush for the last coat and the training acquired during the first coats and second coat to the back should prepare you to do a great job on this last coat. Think of the first coats as training. Use them to teach yourself the technique that will work for you. I hardly had any brush strokes on the first 18 doors, but my brush began malfunctioning after that. So I had 18 excellent doors and 3 not so good doors. The reason is I did not use a 1" brush for the trim. I used the same 2" angled brush. Problem with this was that I used the brush to get in the crevices of the trim, causing the bristles to bend and over and over again. I believe this damaged the brush toward the end of the project. It's worth another $10 for a 1" brush dedicated to trim.

Good luck!